This is impressive. The dates and the numbers you gave match up. I'm pretty sure they are Scott. I'm not sure about the small x . I'm hoping it's for centering, with x meaning perfectly centered and xx meaning wide margin and xxx meaning JUMBO. And when it's a JUMBO, it's capitalized!
I poked around some websites and found Nr. 9 listed from $135 to $850
A couple of the others catalogue in the $5K range plus. These need to be seen. Are they cancelled or still mint? What do the backs look like? Any hinge remenants on any of them? What about airmails? Their Scott nr. begins with the letter C
If you really want to enjoy them and haven't already, click on the sites on PSE's homepage and try to match yours up and see what they're selling for.. I think you are going to be very pleasently surprised!
Archaninator - On www.stamps.org (the APS's website), www.asdaonline.com (American Stamp Dealers Association), or here and click on the PSE's link, you can search for dealers in your area. If you could post a couple of pics of the early US, that would probably give an idea of what the rest of the collection is like. Hinged or hinged remnanats is not such a big factor in early US; although if you do have a MNH with OG or even DOG from the 19th century, cat values are almost useless. Centering and faults or lack of has a lot to do with early material. Many mint early German material will be without gum because it was common practice for European collectors to remove gum as most of it was damaging to the stamps over long periods of time.
Many early US should be authenticated by third parties such as the APS, PSE, or PF. Collectors have seen so many collections where someone has a stamp in a certain slot, but its really not the correct stamp; the most common being a #10 but its actually a #11 and this almost has to be seen in person as color is one aspect in correctly ID'ing it. People also used to deceive collectors by reperfing or regumming issues. Others made repairs to stamps. If you have a good close-up pic, you can submit your photo to the APS for correct identification. The charge for non-members is around $10 and members is a few bucks less. A cert is your best bet for getting documented as being authentic and any faults noted, but only do this on the higher value items.
I don't know what the "x"'s mean. A common legend used by many is that 2 stars or asterisks means mnh and 1 means mint or unused. A circle or dot can mean used.
Even though you are not interested in selling, a dealer can still give you an appraisal, especially if you are willing to pay. Most insurance companies would want a commercial appraisal vs an individual if you are seeking to insure it. Many dealers are friendly and if you catch them when their store is not busy, they would be glad to explain the hobby/values. If they knew you were not interested in selling, there would be no reason for them to low-ball a number. If I lived in the SF area, I would be glad to look it over for free as many other collectors probably would. Just remember, when using a private collector, our opinions on value/grading/etc will differ due to the experience level of each.
Please don't take this as a "put-down"; it is just my opinion on viewing the pics which could differ viewing in person. A lot of the examples would be classified as space-fillers. Others have minor faults and bad centering. Some seem to be reperfed. There did look to be some nice copies in there, but still one would need to see them in person. A person would need to view some with a strong light and watermark fluid to detect repairs and other faults. As you mentioned in card collecting, condition is everything; well, its the same in stamps as well as a few other things. For these reasons, cat value has to be adjusted in some way; either down or up.
Foreign is still collected. You'll find collectors that collect/specialize in many areas. I would say Germany is more popular than Israel, but Isreal does have a following especially with tab collectors.
If you are keeping it for sentimental reasons, the value is not that important. One of our friends gave me 5-6 albums that her dad had built up; knowing that I was a stamp collector. She had no idea of its worth, but said I could have it as they would just dispose of it. I was glad to accept, but the collection was basically "worthless" in collectors' hands. He had designed and categorized the whole collection; so I am just keeping it as is and stored it away. His collection reminded me of my younger collecting days and even included an Ambassador album, which was my first stamp album.
Doug
PM if you are interested in talking more about stamps.
You should only use stamp tongs on stamps -- not regular tweezers and not your hands. I've heard a couple of people say they sometimes handle their stamps wearing clean rubber gloves. True, you won't leave fingerprints on the glue or soil the stamp that way, but I feel rubber-gloved hands (and hands in general) are too bulky and clumsy for handling stamps....it would be so very easy to accidentally bend a perforation or put a big crease in the stamp or something. I think stamp tongs were made for a good reason. If you are going to handle your stamps, get yourself a pair of stamp tongs first.
You are never going to be able to get a clear enough scan holding the scanner upside down at a distance and using it like a camera. In the scans you supplied, it looks like the stamps are in a holder that has the usual clear plastic front cover sheet covering the stamps. If that is so, you can lay the page face down on the scanner just like you would anything else and take a scan of it. The clear protective sheet should keep the stamps from falling out. It also keeps the stamps clean. Since the scanner glass is flat and smooth (and the stamps are also behind the protective plastic sheet), nothing can scratch or puncture the stamps. Now if it appears that the stamps are going to fall out if you turn the page upside down, then that's a totally different story....you'll have to buy and use something better to put the stamps in for scanning purposes. A local stamp dealer with a retail store usually has basic supplies that you can buy.
It would be best to get some idea of what you have before you go to too much trouble and expense. A local dealer can look at a sampling and give you some feedback. You can just say you inherited the collection and want to get an idea of value. If he offers to buy, it doesn't mean you have to sell...just say maybe sometime in the future or you'll think about it. At least you might wind up with a better idea about whether it is even worth the trouble of hiring someone like you said, and help you decide just how serious you should get about this collection.
All life is precious, no matter how small or seemingly inconsequential. Respect life, in whatever form it takes.
There's a dealer in Alamo that's in the Bay area I believe. Go to the top of the page and go to the PSE homepage. You'll see E & M. Also, there is an auction company in SF, Schuyler Rumsey Philatelic Auction. They should have someone there who can look at them for you.
Archaninator
Posts: 822 ✭✭✭
Comments
Jerry
I poked around some websites and found Nr. 9 listed from $135 to $850
A couple of the others catalogue in the $5K range plus. These need to be seen. Are they cancelled or still mint? What do the backs look like? Any hinge remenants on any of them? What about airmails? Their Scott nr. begins with the letter C
If you really want to enjoy them and haven't already, click on the sites on PSE's homepage and try to match yours up and see what they're selling for.. I think you are going to be very pleasently surprised!
Jerry Check this out Scott #76
Many early US should be authenticated by third parties such as the APS, PSE, or PF. Collectors have seen so many collections where someone has a stamp in a certain slot, but its really not the correct stamp; the most common being a #10 but its actually a #11 and this almost has to be seen in person as color is one aspect in correctly ID'ing it. People also used to deceive collectors by reperfing or regumming issues. Others made repairs to stamps. If you have a good close-up pic, you can submit your photo to the APS for correct identification. The charge for non-members is around $10 and members is a few bucks less. A cert is your best bet for getting documented as being authentic and any faults noted, but only do this on the higher value items.
I don't know what the "x"'s mean. A common legend used by many is that 2 stars or asterisks means mnh and 1 means mint or unused. A circle or dot can mean used.
Doug
Please don't take this as a "put-down"; it is just my opinion on viewing the pics which could differ viewing in person. A lot of the examples would be classified as space-fillers. Others have minor faults and bad centering. Some seem to be reperfed. There did look to be some nice copies in there, but still one would need to see them in person. A person would need to view some with a strong light and watermark fluid to detect repairs and other faults. As you mentioned in card collecting, condition is everything; well, its the same in stamps as well as a few other things. For these reasons, cat value has to be adjusted in some way; either down or up.
Foreign is still collected. You'll find collectors that collect/specialize in many areas. I would say Germany is more popular than Israel, but Isreal does have a following especially with tab collectors.
If you are keeping it for sentimental reasons, the value is not that important. One of our friends gave me 5-6 albums that her dad had built up; knowing that I was a stamp collector. She had no idea of its worth, but said I could have it as they would just dispose of it. I was glad to accept, but the collection was basically "worthless" in collectors' hands. He had designed and categorized the whole collection; so I am just keeping it as is and stored it away. His collection reminded me of my younger collecting days and even included an Ambassador album, which was my first stamp album.
Doug
PM if you are interested in talking more about stamps.
You are never going to be able to get a clear enough scan holding the scanner upside down at a distance and using it like a camera. In the scans you supplied, it looks like the stamps are in a holder that has the usual clear plastic front cover sheet covering the stamps. If that is so, you can lay the page face down on the scanner just like you would anything else and take a scan of it. The clear protective sheet should keep the stamps from falling out. It also keeps the stamps clean. Since the scanner glass is flat and smooth (and the stamps are also behind the protective plastic sheet), nothing can scratch or puncture the stamps. Now if it appears that the stamps are going to fall out if you turn the page upside down, then that's a totally different story....you'll have to buy and use something better to put the stamps in for scanning purposes. A local stamp dealer with a retail store usually has basic supplies that you can buy.
It would be best to get some idea of what you have before you go to too much trouble and expense. A local dealer can look at a sampling and give you some feedback. You can just say you inherited the collection and want to get an idea of value. If he offers to buy, it doesn't mean you have to sell...just say maybe sometime in the future or you'll think about it. At least you might wind up with a better idea about whether it is even worth the trouble of hiring someone like you said, and help you decide just how serious you should get about this collection.
Jerry
Dennis
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