Help me understand the Set Registry ratings

MikeyLikesIt

I am in need of a little help....

I've decided that I need to develop a strategy in trying to complete my first player master set (Drysdale) on the registry. I need to try and allocate my collecting funds with some sense of logic. I've conceded the fact that I will never have the #1 set (and maybe not even #2) due to the funds necessary for such an undertaking, but I do think the idea of an overall set rating and GPA is a good way to gauge the current state of my set and add a little more fun to an already fun hobby. So here's a question:

There are some super rare/low pop oddball Drysdales on the master list. Is there a point where, in buying say a PSA 2 or 3 oddball, doing so would HURT my set rating/GPA? Would I be better off not even buying such a card? I've tried to figure this math out in my head but I'm just not sure of an answer. Here's an example:

-1958 Bell Brand Dodgers is weighted 5x in the composition. Only 19 of these have been graded, with 15 graded 7 or less. With the SMR of an 8 being $450, it's safe to assume that a 7 is likely the best I'll ever do. My current GPA is a 7.18, so by purcashing a 7, my GPA would go down, right? At the same time, my set would be more complete so I would my overall set rating should go up right?

What I'm trying to figure out is this: as my set completion % increases, is there a point where buying a card would hurt my set rating?

Obviously this is not the determining factor when deciding to purchase a card but it's something I have been wondering and am hoping that someone with a PhD in calculus can lend me their brain.

Mike

lostdart58

Forget your set rating.............complete the set in whatever form you like and money you feel comfortable spending.................completing the set will be enough of an accomplishment especially if there are rare oddball items involved.

mcholke

To answer your question. Adding a card never hurts your set rating but could lower your weighted GPA. As long as you are adding cards of any grade, you are increasing your set rating.

NickM

Your set rating is the number of points you have divided by the total possible points. Each card's points total is the card's grade (with qualifiers accounted for) multiplied by its weight. A card can never make your set rating go down.

Nick

lawnmowerman

<< <i>Forget your set rating.............complete the set in whatever form you like and money you feel comfortable spending.................completing the set will be enough of an accomplishment especially if there are rare oddball items involved. >>

MikeyLikesIt

<< <i>Forget your set rating.............complete the set in whatever form you like and money you feel comfortable spending.................completing the set will be enough of an accomplishment especially if there are rare oddball items involved. >>



I knew I would get this answer which made me hesitant to even ask the question. And I absolutely agree with you. My first goal is just to complete the set in my lifetime while having fun doing so. Just want to try and understand the logic behind the whole thing.

Mike

MikeyLikesIt

<< <i>Your set rating is the number of points you have divided by the total possible points. Each card's points total is the card's grade (with qualifiers accounted for) multiplied by its weight. A card can never make your set rating go down.

Nick >>



Ahh very good. It's beginning to make sense now.

Griffins

<< <i>1958 Bell Brand Dodgers is weighted 5x in the composition. Only 19 of these have been graded, with 15 graded 7 or less. With the SMR of an 8 being $450, it's safe to assume that a 7 is likely the best I'll ever do. >>



On a side note, I doubt you'd ever get a '58 Bell Drysdale in PSA 8 for under $2K. SMR is way, way off.

NickM

Forget the '58 Bell Brand. Imagine what a Topps Venezuelan in PSA 8 would bring.

Nick

MikeyLikesIt

<< <i>

<< <i>1958 Bell Brand Dodgers is weighted 5x in the composition. Only 19 of these have been graded, with 15 graded 7 or less. With the SMR of an 8 being $450, it's safe to assume that a 7 is likely the best I'll ever do. >>



On a side note, I doubt you'd ever get a '58 Bell Drysdale in PSA 8 for under $2K. SMR is way, way off. >>



You're probably right. I was watching this one until it got out of my price range. Now that I think about it though, it may not have been such a bad deal.

Griffins

I"m betting that would be a 3 or maybe a 4. '58 Bells are on stock thinner than normal cards, and bends and wrinkles are pretty common, giving it an automatic 3. I had a few get bent coming out of the card saver, turning 7's into relatively worthless 3's.
Stains on the back are very common as well.
Bottom line? Collect what you like to collect, and what you can afford. Don't worry about points or ratings (many, many collections are not even part of the registry, so even if you are #1 it really doesn't mean anything) and be happy with what you have.
The best thing about the registry is meeting others with similar interests- I've made a ton of friends thru the registry, and that is what makes collecting a lot of fun.