How do you match coins in your sets?

XpipedreamR

Do you go for a certain look? All untoned? All toned? A certain type of toning? Do you mix circulated and uncirculated pieces? All around the same grade? And so on.


When I started, I was much more haphazard about adding coins. Then I figured, maybe it would be good enough to simply have a set of coins in which each piece were attractive and worthy of individual consideration, with no hole fillers. Now I'm thinking that I might be interested in more closely matching the look of the coins in my sets. All the time, making it more difficult to collect...


Another collector recently remarked to me that a particular set of high grade coins was cheapened by the fact that it was a potpourri of toned coins, original untoned coins, and dipped white coins, which got me to thinking about this.



I'm interested to hear any perspectives.

Whizzard

Well, for my 7070, I'm looking for 50 or above only, relatively untoned, other than some light album toning. Other than that, I keep everything in slabs, so its less of a concern.

mirabela

I'm not sticky about everything being the same grade, although I seek a reasonably continuous look in the set as it is displayed, i.e. I'll have a VF next to an XF next to an AU, but not a VG next to a BU. I seek coins with medium original toning. I like coins with a hint of interesting color -- a little bit of rainbow rim tone, that kind of thing -- but I don't seek monster toners. I avoid bright, light coins as well as very dark ones in most cases.

coinbuf

In general I like my sets to be like graded; AUs with AUs and strech XFs; BU with BU and so forth. As to color I prefer blast white or full red but thats less of a concern as long as the coin has nice eye-appeal and original surfaces when possible. The short answer is if you like the coin then it fits in your collection.

Chris

cladking

In my clad sets it's mostly by die state but will deviate for a better struck coin that
is equally clean or cleaner. I like the PL's, especially early die state PL's, but most
highlight their marking too much for my taste.

greghansen

For type sets of various coins, I'm more lenient on having mixed grades and surface types. On a date set for a specific coin, however, I like all the coins to be of the same general grade and look. So if I'm putting together a circulated set, I like the same general degree of wear and color.

MrSpud

For her sets in albums, MrsSpud brings whatever album she is working on to coin shows and matches the look of the coin to the others around it on the page. We shoot for a particular grade plus or minus one grade with an original uncleaned look to it. It helps to bring the album so you don't accidently put a coin that is too high of a grade right next to one of the Keys or Semi-keys. Like with her circulated Barber dime set, she wouldn't want a high VF right next to a semi-key that is a low end VG, but if you have a low end fine common date next to the semi-key you can put a VF on the other side of the Fine common date and it all matches. She doesn't put that much thought into it though, she just places the coin in it's 2X2 or flip on top of the album and compares the coins around it to see if it looks right.

LanLord

In my top two type sets (on Library of Coins, one 7070 + gold page) I am looking for mostly AU+ coins except for the very earliest coins, those I typically will settle for what can be obtained for a reasonable price (or at all).

The coins shouldn't be unusual looking for it's timeframe, ie. A Franky can be white or off white, but a seated coin should have some "tarnish" to it. The more the merrier, but not goofy looking.

The coins should be comfortable looking together, when I page through the album it should be enjoyable to view.

The other type albums (both 7070s) get the hand-me-downs from my top two sets.

bushmaster8

Ohio Blue Tips (If you can find them)... sometimes a bit o' gasoline as well.