Worth getting graded

cavalier

Looking for opinions into whether I should get some of the these graded. I have several 1952 topps cards that look NRMT/MT from the front and have tape residue or actual tape on the reverse -- most all of them look the one below - obviously the Mantle is a no-brainer - but wondering about common high #'s -

Thanks for your opinions

cravetopps

the front looks incredible, cavalier. Not sure what they do about the tape .....I am sure someone on this board will know. I suspect it would get some type of qualifier like an "MK".

lawnmowerman

Yeah it looks great. Now only if the tape marks werent there...wow!

2dueces

I think they would come back with either a ST or MK qualifier.
Not sure, but I think the tape residue can be removed safely.
i've never tried it, but hear it can be done. Joe

cravetopps

if joe is right, find out how this is done or what kind of experience people have had doing this. If it's an 8 MK, then you have a $50 card. Is it worth $50 to remove the tape and possibly get an 8 or 9 NQ? If the process doesn't work (altered designation from PSA), then you have an "unholdered" card returned by PSA.

Dallas88

This thread had a mention of bestine (a thinner for rubber cement).....

Bestine for wax removal

I would try it on something less valuable first.

Let us know how it works!

-dal-

mercurynut

Why not it looks like its worth the effort.

chaz43

I've tried it on some wax stains and it really doesn't work that well. It still leaves an impression of where the wax was and it really didn't get that much off so I gave up. I just don't buy anything with a stain on them. chaz

maraya

It's impossible to remove tape from a card safely without damaging it further. The glue eats into the paper. Even if something like
"Googone" or alcohol is used, the stains remain. Thus live with
the MK qualifier. My opinion and have tried that before.

ToppsCo1lector

I'd get it graded as is and just take the qualifier. Yes, I know(along with all of us) that a qualifier will bring down the price of the card, on the present market. Fact is, eventually no matter qualifier or not high grade examples are going to become rarer and rarer and thus qualifiers that "hurt the appeal" less will start to command higher dollars. Just my .02.

storm888

The very best removal job will still leave evidence
that the tape was there.

Thus, MK or ST, b4 AND after the effort.

You might get some of it to come up with a single-ply
Kleenex tissue. Gently press the tissue onto a small
part of the tape-remnant. Gently lift the tissue; some
of the goop might stick to the Kleenex. If Kleenex sticks
to the card, just ease it off with a clean finger. (No
matter how well this works or does not work, the
Qualifier is still for sure.)

I would grade them anyway.

storm

Stone193

Why not contact someone who says he's an expert.

They do:

Cleaning
Tape and writing removed


And show cards on their home page:



mike

storm888

"Why not contact someone who says he's an expert.

They do:

Cleaning
Tape and writing removed


And show cards on their home page:

///////////////////////////////////////////////////

They will do a great job.

BUT, if the stain was "completely gone," PSA would catch the fix,
and could return the card as "altered;" or, they could say it was
"repaired." In either case, you end up with no holder or maybe a
Q on the holder.

The stain in the picture is not that disgusting. The fact that it does
not appear to have migrated to the front of the card, makes it
pretty minor, EXCEPT for pricing and registry purposes.

storm

VintageJeff

Are baseball cards still authentic if they have been restored?

A number of high-end baseball cards have been restored to Mint or close to Mint condition. Many cards are restored to high grade by adding vintage paper and toxic chemicals to restore the worn corners, and sometimes by inpainting. As with reprints, there is nothing inherently wrong with restored cards so long as they are clearly represented as such. Restorations can often be identified by a visual inspection. Some inspections involve a black light test which can be less than effective if the colors are dark.

What is the Black Light Test?

Black light testing is a common practice used to authenticate antiques. Blacklights are used in evaluating antiques because the ultraviolet rays they produce react differently to different materials. Because of this interesting characteristic, things that are invisible to the naked eye become visible under the blacklight. Most paper products such as baseball cards, books, photos papers, etc. made before the late 1930s-WW2 era rarely fluoresce. Paper products made since 1950, however generally fluoresces brightly due to large amounts of chemical bleaches and dyes.

stevek

<<< Looking for opinions into whether I should get some of the these graded. I have several 1952 topps cards that look NRMT/MT from the front and have tape residue or actual tape on the reverse -- most all of them look the one below - obviously the Mantle is a no-brainer - but wondering about common high #'s - >>>

Maybe I misinterpreted this but do you also possibly have a 52 Mantle? Please post a scan if you do - would love to see it.

I also agree with others who say not to try to remove the tape stain.

storm888

".......there is nothing inherently wrong with restored cards so
long as they are clearly represented as such."

///////////////////////////////////////////////////


VERY correct.

BUT, PSA has refused to change the policy.

There is NO logical REASON that an altered/restored card should
not be put in a PSA holder.

PSA/DNA will "authenticate" autos w/o grading them, and put them
in holders.

I think that PSA is missing a good market by not modifying their
current policy. They could even charge a little extra, if they chose to.

storm