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Considering Selling Baseball Card Collection – Best Options

I am considering selling my baseball card collection. I posted images with some of my best examples.
High Res Front
High Res Back

What would be the best (most profitable) way to sell such a collection, Ebay, local dealer, card show, etc?

Would it be better to sell them raw or have them professionally graded? If so, what grading service?

Anyone care to comment on any specific cards?

Thanks in advance for the help.


image


image

Comments

  • CDsNutsCDsNuts Posts: 10,092
    I think grading is out of the question for all but the Killebrew. I'm probably going against popular consensus, but I think if you sold it all as a collection, you would do ok. There are quite a few people looking for collections on ebay and they have the patience to wade through the crap/scams to get to the solid stuff, and usually overpay for it in the hopes that the person selling is a novice and might have missed some gems.

    Lee
  • BuccaneerBuccaneer Posts: 1,794 ✭✭
    I agree with Lee, the Killebrew is by far the only card worth grading.
  • storm888storm888 Posts: 11,701 ✭✭✭
    I would get them graded. Be prepared for some "qualifiers"
    on some of them; but, still worth the tiny money to get them
    in a PSA holder, IMO.

    The cards, mostly, look like they have been "enjoyed and
    played with." That will keep the grades down. Still, some
    relatively expensive stuff. They will not fund your retirement,
    though.

    eBay is the best "cheap venue." Stay out of "card shops,"
    unless you will settle for a "song." Big card shows with lots
    of retail traffic are great, but expensive to set up.

    Grade 'em, throw 'em up on eBay, and price 'em at the
    lowest price you will accept on the first go around. If you
    do not get enough action, you can relist.

    good luck !

    storm

    Folks Who Bite Get Bitten. Folks Who Don't Bite Get Eaten.
  • the payton looks worth grading...

    added: maybe not.. is that a giant stain?
  • BloodManBloodMan Posts: 1,835 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>the payton looks worth grading...

    added: maybe not.. is that a giant stain? >>



    No stains on the Payton card, but a small crease below the chin on the Killebrew. Does that change anyone’s mind about that card.

    I am surprised that nobody recommends grading the Mantle.

    Storm is right about the card being enjoyed.

    Thanks for the candid advice.
  • The Mantle, Killebrew and possibly the Payton need to be graded.
    Collecting
    Minnie Minoso Master and Basic
    1967 Topps PSA 8+
    1960's Topps run Mega Set image
    "For me, playing baseball has been like a war and I was defending the uniform I wore, Every time I put on the uniform I respected it like the American flag. I wore it like I was representing every Latin country."--Minnie Minoso
    image
  • No need to grade...just list with the BV's and let the bidders ponder the grades.
    If some-one want to do the math, figure the SMR's for the 3 key cards at what you think they would grade out at
    ie: Killebrew PSA 5 (OC)
    Mantle PSA 4
    Payton PSA 6
    Figure cost of getting them graded vs the $50-$75 they are worth each. Ungraded they would possibly sell slightly less, but you don't have to factor in the cost of grading. Just MHO
  • Downtown1974Downtown1974 Posts: 6,851 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Is that a crease on the bottom of the Killebrew? Starts at the "e" in base, and goes to killers chin.
  • lostdart58lostdart58 Posts: 2,938 ✭✭✭
    The Mantle is in such condition that you would lose the grading fee getting it graded...........you could probably get between $70- $90 raw on a good day but the same for a PSA 4.....

    grade the Killerbrew only..................( but I know nothing about the Payton)

    The rest are best sold raw.......
    Collector of:Baseball
    1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better

    Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
    Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
    Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete


  • Downtown1974Downtown1974 Posts: 6,851 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>The Mantle is in such condition that you would lose the grading fee getting it graded...........you could probably get between $70- $90 raw on a good day but the same for a PSA 4.....

    grade the Killerbrew only..................( but I know nothing about the Payton)

    The rest are best sold raw....... >>



    I agree with you lostdart about the Mantle raw, but if that grades a 4, I would be more than happy to give $70-$90 for it.
  • I would sell them raw on Ebay. Put scans on with each card and let the bidders decide the value. You should do well on the Ryan, Mantle, Rose and Payton...
    Next MONTH? So he's saying that if he wins, the best-case scenario is that he'll be paying for it two weeks after the auction ends?

    Forget blocking him; find out where he lives and go punch him in the nuts. --WalterSobchak 9/12/12



    image


    Looking for Al Hrabosky and any OPC Dave Campbells (the ESPN guy)
  • it really depends on a few things:

    are you already a PSA member? (or GAI or SGC?)
    how much did you buy these cards?
    are you willing to take the time to sell these cards one by one?


    answering the above questions will help you determine how you should go about selling these cards. If you're already a PSA member (SGC or GAI), then grading is definitely something you should consider....grading of your star cards (kilebrew, mantle and payton in your scans) and cards that could possibly net you a 7 or above). If you dont have PSA/SGC/GAI membership, then grading shouldnt be something to consider given the membership fees and the fact that you're selling off your collection and will never use grading again. Having someone send the cards to PSA for you is an option you might consider. if you do this, make sure you clearly understand how much they are charging you for sending in your cards. i know some dealers who charge insane prices.

    Do some research on the cards you are selling....mainly and especially the cards you consider to be your best. Determine how much profit you will make when selling these raw vs graded. Since these cards are not especially rare (relative to pre war), you have a good amount of data on ebay (past 30 days of auction should net you at least a dozen data points, if not more). If you bought these cards a long time ago, you are bound to make a good profit even if you sold these raw. If you bought these cards recently, then you may want to consider grading to increase profit. looking at only the past 30 days of sales isnt the most ideal way to gauge the market value of your cards...but, it's the best you have available.

    just looking at the scans, none of these cards are a worthwhile sell on big auction houses. your only route is selling through ebay. sell as a collection vs. one by one? most collectors will say to sell one by one. and i have to agree. BUT, if you're not willing to spend the time to list these cards individually on ebay, sell it as a collection and take some loss on your potential profit. One route may be to sell just your top cards individually...and then sell the rest as a collection.

    hope this helps.
  • Bloodman,

    This might not be an option, but I think it's your best avenue - Simply keep the cards and enjoy them. There's a nice cross section of years and HOFers, but card grading really killed the value on this type of lot. Grading the cards is going to seriously cut into any money you might take in and the cards won't sell unless authenticated. Keep the cards in sleeves and share them with kids, grandkids, friends' kids, etc... There's an overabundance of these examples in mid-grade and they're going to get lost on Ebay. You could take them to a flea market and see what happens, but entering a dealer's shop is death. he'll pay you 25% of their value. Maybe you can barter with someone else holding an object you are looking for?

    However, if you are set on selling the cards, you always do better selling individually rather than as a group. See if a friend has an Ebay account with decent feedback. This will lend some credibility and start the cards at a low reserve. Any money picked up should be considered a "good" sale. This type of material falls through the cracks and top guys like Fritsch and Kit Young have warehouses teeming with like examples.

    Best of luck,

    JLC
    Secretary of the Albacore Club

    "I have one word for you, Ben... Spastics. Got it? Good. Enough said."
  • BloodManBloodMan Posts: 1,835 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for all of the replies. I am very impressed by the thoughtful and details responses from the group. I plan to sell some the lower value cards individually on ebay without grading. I will have some of the better cards graded and see what happens.

    I am a member of PCGS, the coin grading service. Does this allow me to submit cards for PSA grading or is a separate membership required?
  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,948 ✭✭✭✭
    Even though a member of PCGS, you would need to have a separate membership for PSA.

    I'll chime in too and say you might want to get the Killebrew graded (though the crease does give me some pause) and the Mantle, because its Mantle. The others are too much off-grade to bother with the cost of grading. I would say sell all individually on eBay, and though it may seem a pain, have oversized and well-detailed scans of each. This will go far in communicating to the eBay buyer you're not interested in anything but a completely honest description, and it may discourage any "unhappy returns" because "i didn't see this or that", etc.

    Good luck!
  • larryallen73larryallen73 Posts: 6,067 ✭✭✭
    I would grade them as I think it's easier to sell graded cards on Ebay as there is no guessing. Makes for a cleaner sale as nobody can say you misrepresented anything. Grade, sell and you will make a few bucks. You won't make a lot but you will make something. Good luck.
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