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How do you image RD copper?

shylockshylock Posts: 4,288 ✭✭✭
When it comes to untoned coins, red copper is the toughest mint state metal to image.


I've tried lots of gadgets.
The "cloud dome" light diffuser, an expensive salad bowl, was a joke.
The Nikon Macro Cool Light-SL1 cast light rays, like a UFO landing on every coin I imaged.
I even bought the Eco-Light tubular lighting system. It sounds like a vacuum cleaner when you turn it on, and
can fry your coins if you place its tenticles too close to the slab.
All these gadgets are collecting dust in my closet.


What lighting advice would you give to RD copper photographers?


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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How do you image RD copper?

    Not very well, thank you -- image

    But, I would like to hear what others say. My best results come from getting in a dark place with a single OTT light about 5 feet above the coin. With my current camera configuration, I can only get the camera about 10 inches from the coin. I want to get the 150mm macro lens, and I think that will be the ticket.
    Doug
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    MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭
    A single light at 12 o'clock to provide main lighting. A second light at 3 o'clock, but higher, to add light to the darker areas...Mike

    image
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
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    shylockshylock Posts: 4,288 ✭✭✭
    DMWJR -

    I've also gotten the best results from a combination of Ott Lites, at different angles depending on the coin.
    Having a Mr. Met bobble head doll close by is highly recommended.

    image
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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    image

    Maybe I should pick up a couple more OTT lights. Have you tried to elevate them any?
    Doug
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    MacCrimmonMacCrimmon Posts: 7,054 ✭✭✭
    image

    Two OTTs: One light tube is oriented completely away from the coin roughly parallel to the table surface. The second light tube is oriented about 20-25 degrees greater than parallel, and the light tube traverse the coin at approximately 11 o-clock to 3 o-clock.

    From there I adjust the height of the lens until even illumination is achieved. The subject coin shown can have the darker area by the "B" mintmark eliminated by raising the camera about 1/4" (varies with each coin). Average lens height is about 80-100mm from coin.....no macro lenses. image

    Cam is an old Nikon 950 CP.
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    I will use two lights at a high angle, like I do with most coins. I adjusted the position of them a little to cut down on some of the harsh reflections on the relief.

    image
    image
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    This is a good thread. Thanks!
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    coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 10,778 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I send them to Mark for proper photos. image

    Chris
    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    My technique also depends upon the surfaces, early date ones with frosty textured surfaces are easier (two lights are pretty easy), late dates tend toward a very glossy relief and those are the hard ones because they tend to create harsh reflections off of the relief.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    LeeGLeeG Posts: 12,162
    I used two 13W OTT-LITE's for this one. One at 2 O'clock and one at 7 O'clock with the lights about a foot off the coin.


    image
    image
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    What wattage are you guys using in your OTT Lites???, and are all of you using OTT lites?
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭


    << <i> and are all of you using OTT lites? >>



    No. I have two of them, but I find that their light is a little too diffuse for everyday use.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    Mark.....what light /wattage do you use? .......Nevermind....I see your article...image
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    I typically use 2 300W halogen lamps. Hotter than hell, but you get a nice fast shutter speed.

    Ott lights work well, don't get me wrong. If I were shopping for Ott lights, I would get the swirl bulbs that fit into a normal light socket. Positioning one or two of those vertically will give a more directional light. And they're cheaper than the typical Ott lights shown around here.

    Edit: Oh, also, if you have a smaller camera and have to image with the camera closer to the coin, the more diffuse light will help things a bit.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    drwstr123drwstr123 Posts: 7,028 ✭✭✭✭✭
    2 Otts:
    image
    image
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    poorguypoorguy Posts: 4,317
    Two or three cheap lights from home depot. image

    image
    Brandon Kelley - ANA - 972.746.9193 - http://www.bestofyesterdaycollectibles.com
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    DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 5,975 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Brandon, that is a nice crisp photo. Did you adjust the color any after the shot?
    Doug
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    Brandon: looks like 3 lights obv and 2 for the rev.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    stev32kstev32k Posts: 2,098 ✭✭✭
    Different set-ups same lights - I find the light bulbs are less important than pre-setting the white balance and adjusting the angles.

    image

    image

    image
    Who is General Failure, and why is he reading my hard drive?
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    ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭
    I've tended to have the best luck with a black background. I've made a black cardboard "overlay" to put over NGC and old-style ANACS slabs to help with imaging them.
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    I have the best luck with some 5000K bulbs, a 5000K backlit table, a copy stand and cube tent. No hotspots on the coins that way. Lights at 7:45 and 2, but play with the lights to get it just right.

    YMMV

    Jonathan
    I have been a collector for over mumbly-five years. I learn something new every day.

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