The melting point of copper is about 2000 F! If anything happens to the copper on a hot plate, it's delaminating from the zinc (due to different coeffs of expansion?) not melting away.
I really can't say what temp to put it at. I discovered this a few years experimenting with toning on top of an old coal converted furnace.I put a bunch of random cents on top overnight.The copper cents toned but all the zinc cents were minus all or most of their copper.I did about a roll and cleaned any crud off of them first and they came out beautiful.After I moved, I tried putting one on an electric stove burner but the whole cent melted.I think a lower heat for a long time might give desired results.
The general rule for unplated zinc planchet coins is:
If it's real bright and shiney, it's probably been re-plated (with nickel or something similar)
If it's dark, dull, and grey, it's been de-plated (these have no luster whatsover).
In general, a genuine unplated cent should have original cartwheel luster - moreso than the luster on an orig. BU 1943 Cent, but it shouldn't look like a replated '43 cent.
Retired Collector & Dealer in Major Mint Error Coins & Currency since the 1960's.Co-Author of Whitman's "100 Greatest U.S. Mint Error Coins", and the Error Coin Encyclopedia, Vols., III & IV. Retired Authenticator for Major Mint Errors for PCGS. A 50+ Year PNG Member.A full-time numismatist since 1972, retired in 2022.
My daughter has a 1999 circ cent that is totally devoid of copper that she picked out of bank change from a customer. I just wonder if it has any collector value.
What you can do is take your zinc cent and put it into a concentrated solution of ammonium nitrate and ammonia. This will form a complex with the copper metal and leave behind the zinc. The caveat is that the cupric-amine complex is incredibly shock sensitive and explosive when dry so you need to make sure you dilute it with PLENTY of water before you dump it down the sink. Also, it takes quite a bit of time for the reaction to complete itself.
I collect the elements on the periodic table, and some coins. I have a complete Roosevelt set, and am putting together a set of coins from 1880.
<< <i>The melting point of copper is about 2000 F! If anything happens to the copper on a hot plate, it's delaminating from the zinc (due to different coeffs of expansion?) not melting away. >>
It may be possible for the copper to "disappear" if the hot plate gets hot enough. It can't melt the copper, but zinc melts around 800 degrees F. When the zinc reaches that level it can act as a "solvent" and the copper can actually dissolve INTO the zinc.
In fact that is the method that the mint used to use to create the Brass alloy used from 1962 - 1982. The zinc would be melted and the copper would be dissolved into the zinc until a saturated "solution" is achieved. Then the temperature can be raised as more copper is added until the 95%Cu 5%Zn alloy is reached. If you try to melt the copper first and then add zinc, the zinc boils and vaporizes off while it is still melting. This makes it difficult to impossible to create a precise alloy composition.
<< <i>The general rule for unplated zinc planchet coins is:
If it's real bright and shiney, it's probably been re-plated (with nickel or something similar)
If it's dark, dull, and grey, it's been de-plated (these have no luster whatsover).
In general, a genuine unplated cent should have original cartwheel luster - moreso than the luster on an orig. BU 1943 Cent, but it shouldn't look like a replated '43 cent. >>
Hi Fred, Glad to see you posting. Stop by more often. Your talents are appreciated.
To go way, way, way back to the question of value of unplated cents, yes if real they are considered an error coin. They would sell at coin shows for anywhere from $2 to $5 depending on how the dealer feels that day. Hey Jonathan, as to the hot plate discussed, it probably is generated by a Nuclear Reactor allowing temperatures to go into the thousands. The entire coin melts and then as the mass cools little elves jump in and reshape it into a Zinc Cent. SEE you just were looking at it all wrong. I really like the concentrated Ammonium Nitrate thing. Just the type of products you can find at your local Walmart, same aisle along with dynomite, concentrated Sulfuric Acid, etc. Mortars, rockets, bombs next aisle over.
Could this be one of your penny casseroles? This one is definitely not cooked. I found it in a fed wrapped new roll and guessing it's 75% copper plated.
Monster Wavy Steps Rule! - 1999, WSDDR-015, 1999P-1DR-003 - 2 known My EBay Store/Auctions
<< <i>To go way, way, way back to the question of value of unplated cents, yes if real they are considered an error coin. They would sell at coin shows for anywhere from $2 to $5 depending on how the dealer feels that day. Hey Jonathan, as to the hot plate discussed, it probably is generated by a Nuclear Reactor allowing temperatures to go into the thousands. The entire coin melts and then as the mass cools little elves jump in and reshape it into a Zinc Cent. SEE you just were looking at it all wrong. I really like the concentrated Ammonium Nitrate thing. Just the type of products you can find at your local Walmart, same aisle along with dynomite, concentrated Sulfuric Acid, etc. Mortars, rockets, bombs next aisle over. >>
Hehe. Actually, the NH4NO3 would be found in the gardening section of Wal-Mart and the the H2SO4 can be found in the plumbing section.
I collect the elements on the periodic table, and some coins. I have a complete Roosevelt set, and am putting together a set of coins from 1880.
Some of the clads that I did came out mixed copper and zinc like shown.I put them back on the heat and they would look all zinc.I tried putting them in the oven at 500 and first they turned a silvery yellow before showing all zinc.I now realize the copper didn't melt but somehow mixed with the zinc.Some even had luster on them.
The NH4NO3 is not concentrated. The H2SO4 is super diluted and not even equivalent to good battery acid. By the way, auto parts stores carry weak H2SO4 for charging Lead Acid batteries.
Again, way, way back to the original question. I just checked with a coin dealer friend that deals a lot with error coins. He said if real could easily bring $10 or more. Would have to be verified with a TPGS which means the grading would cost more than the coin is worth.
Murphy's 1984 Lincoln looks like the ones I treat with gun bluing solutions.
Comments
the copper will vanish leaving a zinc cent that
looks just like a 1943.
the copper will vanish leaving a zinc cent that
looks just like a 1943.
That is an interesting speculation, have you tried this before?
I really would like to see the copper plating come off, especially using a hot plate that generally gets to about 180 degrees on it's highest setting.
What temp was it again that copper begins to melt? 400+!
I discovered this a few years experimenting
with toning on top of an old coal converted
furnace.I put a bunch of random cents on
top overnight.The copper cents toned but all the zinc cents
were minus all or most of their copper.I did about a roll
and cleaned any crud off of them first and they came out
beautiful.After I moved, I tried putting one on an electric stove
burner but the whole cent melted.I think a lower heat for
a long time might give desired results.
If it's real bright and shiney, it's probably been re-plated (with nickel or something similar)
If it's dark, dull, and grey, it's been de-plated (these have no luster whatsover).
In general, a genuine unplated cent should have original cartwheel luster - moreso than
the luster on an orig. BU 1943 Cent, but it shouldn't look like a replated '43 cent.
<< <i>If you set a zinc cent on a hot plate for a few hours,
the copper will vanish leaving a zinc cent that
looks just like a 1943. >>
No. Uh, look up the melting point of zinc and then look up copper.
Why do people make stuff up like this. It won't make us like you more.
now, try making a small nick on the copper plating of a zincoln and use a butane torch to melt the zinc out of the copper shell. This actually works.
Hahaha! Melt the copper off a cent on a hot plate. What a maroon!
Jonathan
try doing what I said.I don't know or give a rats ass what the melting
points of these metals are.
<< <i>The melting point of copper is about 2000 F! If anything happens to the copper on a hot plate, it's delaminating from the zinc (due to different coeffs of expansion?) not melting away. >>
It may be possible for the copper to "disappear" if the hot plate gets hot enough. It can't melt the copper, but zinc melts around 800 degrees F. When the zinc reaches that level it can act as a "solvent" and the copper can actually dissolve INTO the zinc.
In fact that is the method that the mint used to use to create the Brass alloy used from 1962 - 1982. The zinc would be melted and the copper would be dissolved into the zinc until a saturated "solution" is achieved. Then the temperature can be raised as more copper is added until the 95%Cu 5%Zn alloy is reached. If you try to melt the copper first and then add zinc, the zinc boils and vaporizes off while it is still melting. This makes it difficult to impossible to create a precise alloy composition.
<< <i>The general rule for unplated zinc planchet coins is:
If it's real bright and shiney, it's probably been re-plated (with nickel or something similar)
If it's dark, dull, and grey, it's been de-plated (these have no luster whatsover).
In general, a genuine unplated cent should have original cartwheel luster - moreso than
the luster on an orig. BU 1943 Cent, but it shouldn't look like a replated '43 cent. >>
Hi Fred, Glad to see you posting. Stop by more often. Your talents are appreciated.
Hey Jonathan, as to the hot plate discussed, it probably is generated by a Nuclear Reactor allowing temperatures to go into the thousands. The entire coin melts and then as the mass cools little elves jump in and reshape it into a Zinc Cent. SEE you just were looking at it all wrong.
I really like the concentrated Ammonium Nitrate thing. Just the type of products you can find at your local Walmart, same aisle along with dynomite, concentrated Sulfuric Acid, etc. Mortars, rockets, bombs next aisle over.
roadrunner
This one is definitely not cooked. I found it in a fed wrapped new roll and guessing it's 75% copper plated.
My EBay Store/Auctions
<< <i>To go way, way, way back to the question of value of unplated cents, yes if real they are considered an error coin. They would sell at coin shows for anywhere from $2 to $5 depending on how the dealer feels that day.
Hey Jonathan, as to the hot plate discussed, it probably is generated by a Nuclear Reactor allowing temperatures to go into the thousands. The entire coin melts and then as the mass cools little elves jump in and reshape it into a Zinc Cent. SEE you just were looking at it all wrong.
I really like the concentrated Ammonium Nitrate thing. Just the type of products you can find at your local Walmart, same aisle along with dynomite, concentrated Sulfuric Acid, etc. Mortars, rockets, bombs next aisle over. >>
Hehe. Actually, the NH4NO3 would be found in the gardening section of Wal-Mart and the the H2SO4 can be found in the plumbing section.
mixed copper and zinc like shown.I put them
back on the heat and they would look all
zinc.I tried putting them in the oven at 500
and first they turned a silvery yellow before
showing all zinc.I now realize the copper
didn't melt but somehow mixed with the
zinc.Some even had luster on them.
Again, way, way back to the original question. I just checked with a coin dealer friend that deals a lot with error coins. He said if real could easily bring $10 or more. Would have to be verified with a TPGS which means the grading would cost more than the coin is worth.
Murphy's 1984 Lincoln looks like the ones I treat with gun bluing solutions.