Complete Set vs. Player Set

ChrisC

I just want to say I started collecting again as a hobby and not as an investment. WOW publicly traded companies grading cards. I have been out of the collecting world since 1990. I got back into it buying raw then started seeing this PSA stuff and really liked it so I sold the raw stuff and started building a couple of sets and I think I may be changing my collection again!

OK – I am building a 1973 topps baseball set in the 8.5 range. So I started thinking:
• Roughly 15 money cards in 8 should cost around $1500 give or take
• 330 Common 8’s @ $8 each = $2640
• 315 Common 9’s @ $11 each = $3465
So to build this sucker should/can cost around $7605, fine not a stunning amount of money ------ But ----- When ever I want to look at the set I pull the star cards and never glance at the commons but for a second, maybe! And it takes up a good amount of space.

So, If I am going to end up spending $7600 on building this set and never look at the cards, what would I get out of building a player set that I would actually look at. So I broke it down a little more. Say my player set ambition was to crack the top 10 on the basic player registry:
• Mays – 7 should crack the top 10 @ 100%, can I do this for $7600. 27 cards @ $315 each. Sounds possible right?
• Aaron – 7 will crack the top 10 @ 100%, 24 cards @ $316 each sounds possible right?
• Rose – 7.5 should crack the top 10 @ 100%, 38 cards @ $200 each sounds possible right?
I know this is not the best way to look at the costs here but it gives a good idea, and with averaging the 6's with the 8's and 9's!?!?!?

Lastly, if an emergency happened, I lost my job and depleted all my savings, what’s going to get me my money back, selling these star cards or the complete set? I don’t know but would like your opinion on this.

Thanks,

Chris

jimq112

If you take the time to look at the junkers in 73 there's a whole lot of great photography there! Some of the guys have been pointing them out over the last few weeks.

More than anything collect what you want to have. If the cards became "worthless" overnight would you still be happy to have them?

High graded star and hof cards always sell. Low pop commons in high grade always sell.

The best advice I've read here is to collect what you like and what you can afford.

mealeworm

• Mays – 7 should crack the top 10 @ 100%, can I do this for $7600. 27 cards @ $315 each. Sounds possible right?
• Aaron – 7 will crack the top 10 @ 100%, 24 cards @ $316 each sounds possible right?
• Rose – 7.5 should crack the top 10 @ 100%, 38 cards @ $200 each sounds possible right?


I beleive the SMR for those sets would be below that amount(in that grade).

I collect both player sets and company sets. I like the idea of collecting both for different reasons. The player sets can be fun but waiting for that perfectly centered card might take awhile and will be costly. I then turn to my 57 set where I can readily pick up 7-8 commons for less than 50% of SMR. When the time comes for that "have to have" 63 Aaron psa8 I am not staring at my poorly centered copy I paid around $90 less for. It is a fix for me to have lesser value sets along with some nicer things $$ wise from my stand point.

If it came time to sell the player sets would be first to go. They are easily sold at an average price, when selling a set could take the right buyer at the right time.

Boopotts

<< <i>If you take the time to look at the junkers in 73 there's a whole lot of great photography there! Some of the guys have been pointing them out over the last few weeks.

More than anything collect what you want to have. If the cards became "worthless" overnight would you still be happy to have them?

High graded star and hof cards always sell. Low pop commons in high grade always sell.

The best advice I've read here is to collect what you like and what you can afford. >>




That's a fine response, but it doesn't answer the original question. We're assuming the OP would derive equal enjoyment from both sets, in which case the resale value of each set becomes a very pertinent variable.

I'd personally hold off on a graded 70's set until we learn more about what Larry Frisch has in his warehouse. Go with the player set!

imafishinnut

Chris,

Having done both, I would recommend either a vintage player set or a complete set. I completed the 1971 Topps set in PSA 7 or better about a year ago. It was fun, but it was also about a three year process. Expect any 70s complete set to take several years if you are trying to do it on a budget. Currently, I am focus on two player sets, Wade Boggs and Bo Jackson. The problem with these two player set is there is so many cards out there for the master sets. Modern master player sets can easily contain 1500-2000 cards and therefore it seems like the sets will never be completed. Vintage player sets are more managable because there was not as many odd ball issues out there. They provide a definite finish line that can be shot for.

Mike