MAY/JUNE $5 SPECIAL - MAXIMUM VALUE

californiacards2

In terms of card value maximum of $75 is psa a real stickler for this. Can I include star cards or is this purely a common call for 1964 to present at $5 per card. If I include cards above the $75 maximum value am I likely to get lower grades. How does this special really work.

Thanks for your input

Barry

shagrotn77

How do they assess value anyway? Say you have a card that could fetch anywhere between an 8 and a 10. What are you supposed to do?

thefootballcardstore

You assess the value by marking how much you value the card in the value column of the PSA form.

If you want to value your pristine Michael Jordan Rookie card at no more than $75 you can submit it. But it will only be insured for that much on it's return trip from PSA. Hope this helps.

californiacards2

I mean if I had a star card and at a 7 it is like $ 25 card and an 8 is $80 am I more likely to get the 7 than the 8. I know I may be dense here but just curious. By the way I live in orange county and I always get to pick my cards up. No insurance necessary.

Thanks for the info

Barry

SportsModerator2

<< <i>You assess the value by marking how much you value the card in the value column of the PSA form.

If you want to value your pristine Michael Jordan Rookie card at no more than $75 you can submit it. But it will only be insured for that much on its return trip from PSA. Hope this helps. >>



This information is incorrect. If you have a card that books for $1000 in an 8 but you list the value as $50, please do not complain when your order gets kicked over to the problem order desk and you receive a call for additional fees and an additional shipping charge once the card is separated off the original submission.

Earlier this year PSA stopped requesting the separation of Stars and Commons. The fees are based on Vintage and Modern and then values.

If you truly do not know the value of the card you can use the grade of 8 (for modern cards, 6 for vintage) as an estimate. If you feel the card will grade higher, you should value it higher in case something does happen to the order in route back to you.

Carol

craig19

i can't find the special $5 info anywhere...where did everyone see it?

fsjeter

Go to the quick links at the top right of the page and click on PSA. When the PSA website comes up, click on set registry. There you will see a link for the set registry grading special: 1964 - Present All Sports $5/card.

Scott

thefootballcardstore

Hi Carol, this is not the way it's been explained to me or others on the phone.
The standard answer on your CS line is that we are solely responsible for determining value. But if what you are saying below is the new company line then here lies another problem.

Some times the difference between a PSA 9 and PSA 10 is $1000s of dollars. So would someone have to mark their value at the higher level everytime?
In other words, if I send in a 1976 Payton rookie with the value marked around $75 because I expect a PSA 8, and then it grades a PSA 9, does it then become a problem desk order because I didn't mark the value at $600?

Boopotts

<< <i>

<< <i>You assess the value by marking how much you value the card in the value column of the PSA form.

If you want to value your pristine Michael Jordan Rookie card at no more than $75 you can submit it. But it will only be insured for that much on its return trip from PSA. Hope this helps. >>



This information is incorrect. If you have a card that books for $1000 in an 8 but you list the value as $50, please do not complain when your order gets kicked over to the problem order desk and you receive a call for additional fees and an additional shipping charge once the card is separated off the original submission.

Earlier this year PSA stopped requesting the separation of Stars and Commons. The fees are based on Vintage and Modern and then values.

If you truly do not know the value of the card you can use the grade of 8 (for modern cards, 6 for vintage) as an estimate. If you feel the card will grade higher, you should value it higher in case something does happen to the order in route back to you.

Carol >>



I think a lot of us would be interested to hear why you can't submit a $1000 dollar card so long as you list it for $50. If $50 is all that PSA is liable for then why does it matter? The only reasonable explanation I can come up with is that your graders spend more time going over expensive, high profile cards then they do lesser valued pieces. If that's not true then I'd like to hear the alternative explanation.

bobbybakeriv

In other words, if I send in a 1976 Payton rookie with the value marked around $75 because I expect a PSA 8, and then it grades a PSA 9, does it then become a problem desk order because I didn't mark the value at $600?

I would like to hear the answer to this as well. I typically use PSA 8 to determine value myself. Thanks Carol.

fsjeter

I may be wrong but it sounds like the problem arises when the card is undervalued enough that it causes additional grading fees. This, in turn, causes additional shipping fees because, ultimately, I think they are liable. Not too many people would accept a check for $75 when the value lost was $600.00. Most would file a suit and PSA would then have to make up the difference. Again, I may be wrong but that is what it sounds like to me. It is a good point though.

Scott

goose3

I've been told what Carol said....

but I have submitted some "Star" 1959 cards under the bulk service that I knew were OC or would only grade 6's or 7's and at or under the 75.00 ceiling.




But Carol, since you are reading this......

I recently sent in a batch of bulk 1960 and 1961's for the 6.00 pricing.....I received Numerous 9's and even a pair of 10s and had no problems with PSA.

clearly the 10's are worth in excess of 75.00. Of course I was not expecting any 10's but why wasn't that kicked to the problem desk?

calleocho

I think that as along as its not obvious ( Mantle Mays Williams ) you can get away with a lot.

Buccaneer

I typically put down the value I paid for the raw cards (i.e., replacement value). If it's a star card that I had in my collection for a while, I use the PSA 6 value - regardless what it will grade at.

SportsModerator2

<< <i>I've been told what Carol said....

but I have submitted some "Star" 1959 cards under the bulk service that I knew were OC or would only grade 6's or 7's and at or under the 75.00 ceiling.




But Carol, since you are reading this......

I recently sent in a batch of bulk 1960 and 1961's for the 6.00 pricing.....I received Numerous 9's and even a pair of 10s and had no problems with PSA.

clearly the 10's are worth in excess of 75.00. Of course I was not expecting any 10's but why wasn't that kicked to the problem desk? >>




I'll be sure to send you a bill before I leave for Ft. Washington.




If the card books for $60 in 8 and we grade it a 10 we are not going to set the order aside and ask for additional fees. If the card is lost on the way back to you, this is the value you claimed so you run that risk.
The grading fees are based on the value of the cards. If you purposefully under value a card (books at $1000 but you value it at $60) it will get kicked over to problem orders and you will be contacted.


You are responsible for valuing your cards, my line is not a new company line but the same one we've had for at least the 8 years I have been here. We can not tell you what to value your card at but, we will kick back obvious under valued orders.

goose3

Makes sense!






Bill? No habla English.

HOWARDROTHENBERG1

Here's the deal on declaring value as I have already had this conversation with PSA. You, the submitter decide the value. If you want to submit a Mantle that is worth in raw value $300.00, my guess is the receiver is going to flag it. I have had this happen recently. PSA e-Mailed me and questioned some values that I had declared on cards. I had to e-Mail them and specifically certify again that no card had a declared value of over $75.00.
PSA explained to me that the purpose of declared value is not only for insurance purposes when PSA sends the card back to you but more importantly, if PSA somehow loses your card, their insurance company will only reimburse you the value you declared. So if you submit that $300.00 Mantle in raw condition and declare it at 75.00 and they lose it, then guess what you are getting back. That's right, $75.00.
PSA also assured me that the graders DO NOT see the declared value. The receiver who receives your cards and unpacks them puts them in a box and assigns them a code number. Your order form does not go in the box but meets up with your cards later on in the process after they have been graded. Thus the grader has no idea what value you have assigned to your cards.
Finally, someone asked a very good question. What happens if you submit a card that you declare at $75.00 and the card grades better than you thought and its graded value is far in excess of that value. I have actually had this occur numerous times and most recently had it occur with a 1963 Topps Jim brown and a 1964 Topps football checklist I submitted. I thought the Brown was a 5, so I declared it at$75.00. It got a 7 which took the value to $215. I thought the checklist was a 7 so I declared it at $75.00. It got an 8 which took its value to $275.00. Each time this has occurred, the cards have been returned at no additional charge and in their higher grades.
Thus, I think what I have learned from all of this is as follows. You can submit cards that are worth more than the $75.00 limit but I would not go crazy. Anything that is abvious(Mays, Mantle, AAron etc) is going to get flagged. Remember, if you do, and PSA loses the card, you are getting $75.00, not the real value of the card. Do the graders see the declared value, No. Will PSA grade the card at what they think its grade is without regard to your declared value, Yes.
Hope this all helps. Howard

MorrellMan

If you speed by a cop at 47 mph in a 45 mph zone, you probably won't get stopped. But if you do, you've been legitimately caught.

Why do I point this out? Beats me.

goose3

<< <i>If you speed by a cop at 47 mph in a 45 mph zone, you probably won't get stopped. But if you do, you've been legitimately caught.

Why do I point this out? Beats me. >>




Mark, you'd have to go by me at 56 in a 45 for me to even look twice.

A761506

I think it is ridiculous for anyone other than you to determine the value of your own cards. Mantle, Mays, etc... it should not matter who the card is since PSA no longer screws around trying to determine what constitutes a star card.

How does anyone except you know how much you have spent to acquire a card? Isn't that the true value of a card, until it is sold again? A card doesn't just increase in value after you purchase it, it needs to be sold for an amount higher than the original cost in order to do so. I don't give a crap about what is published in any price guides, there have been numerous conversations on here which all have wound up agreeing that any price guide is merely a reference and most are inaccurate far more often than they are correct when a sale actually occurs.

If someone paid $50 for an ungraded 1967 Mantle that they thought was in NM condition for instance, as far as I'm concerned, that card is worth $50, as that is what you have into it.

If you were to resell it, it would be sold on the open market, thus a new value would be determined at that point. For someone to declare the card at the value of a PSA 8 would be completely inaccurate in multiple ways.

1) It's worth $50 until it's sold again.
2) It's a NM card, not NM-MT.
3) The book price of a PSA 8 is only a guide, actual sales will be higher or lower than what is published.
4) Assuming it grades a PSA 7, you are now over-valuing the card... so back to the other silly argument about PSA losing the card or it
getting damaged in registered mail on return (either of which are extremely low probabilities), is PSA going to compensate for the declared
value (PSA 8 published value), or the published value of a PSA 7 since that is what it was graded? And if they are compensating for the
declared value, what would stop someone from declaring the value of 500 1988 Topps commons at $75 each and then having a claim if
something went wrong and the entire order was lost or damaged in return shipping? Is PSA or their underlying insurance company going to
fork over $37,500 for $5 worth of cards just because someone declared they are worth $75 each?

It is easy to forget that PSA is in the business of grading & authenticating cards, which can add value to the card if the card is of high grade. We all know that a raw card in NM-MT is not going to sell for nearly as much as one that has been holdered by PSA and graded an 8, even though they are the same card. We are all submitting raw cards, not knowing in advance what they will grade, thus the declared value should be based on their raw value - which is what was paid for it.

If more time were spent on things that were actually significant, rather than holding up orders over petty stuff like declared values, business would be more productive. Is getting someone for an extra few bucks on a card or two in an order, and separate shipping really going to wind up being a profitable move in the long-run? I would think more often than not, it's more likely to alienate a good client and decrease the frequency of future submissions.

Boopotts

<< <i>

<< <i>I've been told what Carol said....

but I have submitted some "Star" 1959 cards under the bulk service that I knew were OC or would only grade 6's or 7's and at or under the 75.00 ceiling.




But Carol, since you are reading this......

I recently sent in a batch of bulk 1960 and 1961's for the 6.00 pricing.....I received Numerous 9's and even a pair of 10s and had no problems with PSA.

clearly the 10's are worth in excess of 75.00. Of course I was not expecting any 10's but why wasn't that kicked to the problem desk? >>




I'll be sure to send you a bill before I leave for Ft. Washington.




If the card books for $60 in 8 and we grade it a 10 we are not going to set the order aside and ask for additional fees. If the card is lost on the way back to you, this is the value you claimed so you run that risk.
The grading fees are based on the value of the cards. If you purposefully under value a card (books at $1000 but you value it at $60) it will get kicked over to problem orders and you will be contacted.


You are responsible for valuing your cards, my line is not a new company line but the same one we've had for at least the 8 years I have been here. We can not tell you what to value your card at but, we will kick back obvious under valued orders. >>



And again the question-- why will you kick back obvious under valued cards? If I declare a '52 Mantle at $20, and $20 is all your responsible for if you lose it or tear it in half, then why would you ever flag a card?

thefootballcardstore

Thanks again Carol,

OK it may not be a new company line but people are not getting a consistent message from the rest of the customer service team.
I am the second person in this short thread alone that has heard something different.



<< <i>Here's the deal on declaring value as I have already had this conversation with PSA. You, the submitter decide the value. >>



We really have no reason to make this up. I think all we all want to to do here is take a few extra minutes to provide you and PSA with this feedback about what we are hearing over the phone, so you can go back and make adjustments to the message being delivered to the customer at all levels.

Have a good night everyone, Jeremy

californiacards2

Some great comments here. I am usually a lingerer on the boards. Glad I brought up a subject so near and dear to everyones heart. Not to be blasphemous (sp) too lazy to use a dictionary, but PSA adds value to cards, but it our preception of that value. As a hopeful set registrer for a few sets in the near future, I believe this to be a discussion of price targeting. My most recent submissions have been the following

589722 90012
587772 90012

I am especially interested in 72 FB for some reason even though not really a FB collector. These 9's and 8's are very difficult in this issue. Some are 1 of 5's 1 of 4's and 1 of 7's. The difficulty in which to get this cards is well known. I paid less than $1 a piece for the cards. I now have $6 in each of these cards and would not part with them for less than SMR. It was just too difficult to get them. I have now got a better eye for what grades well. These were my best submissions in my short life of PSA (3 years). The Price targeting I am talking about works like follows:

Raw really solid 7-8-9 usually gets graded. We are paying $5 for authetication. However, as my recent find shows some stuff is still out there. People can afford to pay $24,000 for a gem mint 10 Staubach or $139 for a OC, by the way I believe that to be undervalued. I would like a 9OC of Staubach at that price as my current Staubach I bot at auction for $90 hoping for a 7. So holdered with a Nice 6 I believe I have lost money although a sweet 6. My digression here is to try to understand the sales/dealer part of this market as I am subleasing some space from a very good friend/dealer at the national. Is the market for graded PSA cards really driven by a few deep pocket buyers for the set registry and the competition inherent. If so isn't the set registry a great way for PSA to drive up our ultimate cost of acquistion. I would not say this is conflict of interest, which I believe was the case when PSA owned an auction house. I am truly a collector, horder of some kind. I was offered SMR for these 9's my perception of difficulty of this issue has been bolstered by my recent very thorough analysis of the POP report. These babies are scarce and there are about 25 cards which have less than 25 cards graded I believe due to the very OC nature of this issue.

My general question is as set registers and high submitters to PSA I would like your thoughts on SMR price guidance and willingness of people to pay SMR or above SMR for rare or 1of 5's etc for particular issues.

COLLECTS

1981 and 1982 Donruss Golf
1935 Pattreiouex looking for Henry Cotton
Kelloggs all sets particular interest in acquiring grade worthy 1970 FB set
run of ungraded 1970s BB 30 cards shy of my second 1972 set - 1 73 set working on second 2 74 sets 75 set 2 76 sets 77 and 79 set looking for 1978 set
1972 FB set missing 20 high numbers 1973 set looking for 1974 - 1975 and 1976 set
1972 Icee Bear
Odd ball stuff

fsjeter

Wait, did you just start a thread within a thread.

Scott