Could I have some help, please
Pharber
Posts: 266
I thinking of joining the PSA's Collector's Club.
I'm sure most of you are members. Is it worth it? Would you join again? And, if you did, which membership package would you select?
I began collecting cards for nostaglic reasons (when Topps initiated its Heritage line), not as an investment or anything.
But I have some cards (a neat '58 Mantle and some others) I'd like to have graded and it seems like it would defray the cost of membership. Furthermore, I could get a discount on a Roop binder, too.
Whaddaya think?
I'm sure most of you are members. Is it worth it? Would you join again? And, if you did, which membership package would you select?
I began collecting cards for nostaglic reasons (when Topps initiated its Heritage line), not as an investment or anything.
But I have some cards (a neat '58 Mantle and some others) I'd like to have graded and it seems like it would defray the cost of membership. Furthermore, I could get a discount on a Roop binder, too.
Whaddaya think?
0
Comments
ALWAYS Looking for Chris Sabo cards!
Forget blocking him; find out where he lives and go punch him in the nuts. --WalterSobchak 9/12/12
Looking for Al Hrabosky and any OPC Dave Campbells (the ESPN guy)
I didn't renew my subscription and miss the monthly SMR (my last one is getting very tattered). If you have six cards to grade, you're set.
Just send me your SMR's when you're done reading them!
Are they still sending the Smithsonian book with membership? Any one of these would be good reason to sign up.
BTW, Roop is reorganizing, and blowing out binders relatively cheaply. Might be worth checking their site.
Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's
When you renew, it is only $89 too, not $99.
The Smithsonian book is great for display, the online population report and smr is extremely handy, and let's face it, 6 free grades nearly pays for it anyway.
I don't think you'd regret it.
shawn
You convinced me. I joined!
Now, although I've been collecting Topps Heritage for the last few years, I'm a relative newbie to all this. I put together the 1957 and 1958 Topps baseball set this spring, for nolstagic reasons. Some are pretty good and I'm thinking of grading them.
First, What sort of guide lines can you offer. How good is good? How perfect should are card be to submit.
Second, the pop numbers. What should I look for there? What's the purpose?
Please excuse my ignorance.
And of course, thanks for helping me make up my mind.
It's a beautiful 280+ page hardback book subtitled "Inside the world's finest private collections"
The low POP cards generally sell for more if there is interest in the card or the set. A PSA8 of a common 1971 player with a low POP could be worth hundreds of dollars because there may be 9 guys fighting for the same card. A PSA 10 of a 1990 Donruss common player might have a low POP but if there is no demand there is no premium.
Sometimes a low POP card in a nice grade in a popular set could sell for many times SMR value. I have sold a PSA 8 card that booked at $95 for over $600 because it was one of 4 with none higher, likewise I've paid more than SMR for some cards.
When you check the cards you want to submit if you have a good scanner post some scans. These guys are experts and might see something you missed. Also pay close attention for light surface wrinkles. I think everybody here misses them now and then.
Hope that helps a little bit anyway
Dave
Now collecting:
Topps Heritage
1957 Topps BB Ex+-NM
All Yaz Items 7+
Various Red Sox
Did I leave anything out?