How do you price RAW cards???????
goose3
Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
I am about to move onto the next phase in my adventures with these old Topps and Fleer Baseball cards once I finish going thru them one last time.
If I were to post a "For Sale" thread on here for raw cards......I'm no PSA grader but after submitting a few hundred of these things I have an good idea on an approximate grade and whether or not the card is 0/C. The MC thing is the only thing I have missed when submitting....How do I go about pricing the cards?
solicit for specific wants, dig them out, and then arrive at a price? 98 percent of what I have left are commons.
some are OC, some are just plain beat to hell, some are very nice but o/c, some have wax marks (I'm not about to remove that from all of them if I'm not submitting them)
give me some ideas folks!
Thanks!
If I were to post a "For Sale" thread on here for raw cards......I'm no PSA grader but after submitting a few hundred of these things I have an good idea on an approximate grade and whether or not the card is 0/C. The MC thing is the only thing I have missed when submitting....How do I go about pricing the cards?
solicit for specific wants, dig them out, and then arrive at a price? 98 percent of what I have left are commons.
some are OC, some are just plain beat to hell, some are very nice but o/c, some have wax marks (I'm not about to remove that from all of them if I'm not submitting them)
give me some ideas folks!
Thanks!
0
Comments
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
I would suggest soliciting want lists from board members on the buy sell message board and then work with them. Be aware of raw values, using an SCD or Tuff Stuff guide, and then work out deals that both you and your customer are comfortable with. If satisfaction occurs, word will spread.
Good luck.
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
do they fetch any certain percentage of SMR? that's the only guide I have available to me.
and really.........would someone expect a seller to do scans of a card if it's worth less than 15 or 20.00? That seems a bit much.
and yes, here on the boards would be "first shot"
btw MorrellMan....I replied to your PM.
<< <i>Mark.....
do they fetch any certain percentage of SMR? that's the only guide I have available to me.
and really.........would someone expect a seller to do scans of a card if it's worth less than 15 or 20.00? That seems a bit much >>
With my raw 59 set which grades ex-nr to nr mint..........I would want to see a scan on a $5.00 raw card to see if it better then the one I already have in my set.
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
On the listed or short prints where you're getting more money maybe you list them, and scan as needed. If 3 of us want to see the same card then you scan it and send it to all 3.
If you're a busy guy you'll get tired of scanning cards before long.
Make sure and list the miscuts as 1/1 and unobtainium on ebay to get top dollar.
just my .02
The answer of a crazy fool who is soon seperated from his money is--- ANYTHING YOU WANT!
reality is...
pricing for raw is difficult to ascertain and based on many factors
1- is the card a yankee or a dodgers from the 50's
2- is the card centered WITH OR WITHOUT QUALIFIER......is the card tilted or diamond cut
3- the grade of it obviously
4- how desperate the seller and or buyer is to complete the deal
..i know for commons on my 57 set id spend a few dollars each for centered copies...and maybe more if they are SP's or yankees. I know for one 57 topps card of Bill Virdon i spent 10 bucks for one raw because it was the only one i had ever seen centered. I then spent 25 bucks to get it graded and it came back a 6....a common 6 is not worth 25 bucks for 57's...but to me this one sure was!!
now then.. SMR is for graded cards only in my book, with the price of grading usually factored in to what the person will pay...ie...there is no way i dont believe that anybody would pay SMR 7 price on a card they believe would only grade a 7...unless 1- its TOUGH and they really need it, 2- its perfectly centered and that is a rarity. I did this with some 56's and now im kicking myself in the teeth for paying so much for raw cards i now need to spend 100's of dollars to get graded.
Part of the push with vintage cards and what makes one in a 7 worth more then another in a 7 is the centering and eye appeal. Its the same with coins...its got to LOOK GOOD. OC raw commons would be tough to judge considering with how tight money is....its all up to the buyer and seller to agree on what is fair.
my 2 cents
Loth
Label raw cards as NM-MT and charge PSA 8 SMR prices.
loth
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
are any of the 'commons' low pop?
if so why not submit them as well?
for that matter why not submit any card that would get a 7 or better?
Steve
<< <i>Do what dealers at shows do:
Label raw cards as NM-MT and charge PSA 8 SMR prices. >>
LOL!!! Card and Coin dealers have much in common.
In reality, there is no way in hell I'm going to scan a 1.00 or even a 5.00 card for someone. It's just not going to happen when I have hundreds of them here. It's not worth my time to even screw with them for that kind of money.
What I was thinking was soliciting for "Wants". I can reply with what I've got and an approximate grade and note any problem such as OC or wax, which really isn't a problem. We can then arrive at a price. I send them out. You don't like, you send back. Much quicker and simpler.
<< <i>Goose
are any of the 'commons' low pop?
if so why not submit them as well?
for that matter why not submit any card that would get a 7 or better?
Steve >>
I am going thru them and picking out any card I feel has a shot at 8 or is an 8. All I have left are commons which don't appear to be worth much more than the holdering fee if you hit a 7 or under.
Must be a bunch of crap left over..........
You don't have to worry about scanning your cards cause there is no way in hell I would buy from ya..........................since you used the term!!
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
Lostdart....I'm relatively certain that I will (barely) get by without selling you 5.00 cards but thanks a million for your consideration.
I did send all of those OC cards in knowing full well that most of them were in fact OC. They were OC but they were worth the sub fees even if OC.
Yes you are correct also..... I have submitted a bunch of crap and still have a bunch of crap.
It's not difficult to figure out who the pains in the ass to deal with are around here, huh.
<< <i>Do what dealers at shows do:
Label raw cards as NM-MT and charge PSA 8 SMR prices. >>
Koby doesn't post much anymore, but he does post the truth!
i'd say you have a better chance finding a high quality raw card from goose to finish a 59t set, than you would have on ebay..
if it were me and i was working on a raw 1959 set, i wouldve just told goose which cards i need, and asked him if he had them & what grade he thought they were, and maybe even asked if he'd let me return them if i think they're crap or something..
1) You won't get 5$ a piece for late '50's commons in EX condition.
2) If you don't want to scan each card your best bet is to put them up on Ebay as a lot where you'll probably get about a buck a card.
Just some thoughts
that's what I was thinking....you or whomever when I get to that point, email me what cards you need and what you are willing to accept. I look thru my boxes and see if I have any and if they are worthy.
boopotts.....all the more reason to not scan!
and he and anyone else would be right......no one needs to see a scan of crap
I thought he was asking a general question about selling raw cards....hence my first reponce......
As for my second response, I don't think I would be out of line to ask for a scan of a close to nr-mint card. ( but now I realize this isn't what Goose has to offer)
Goose may be a long standing and perhaps the finest forum member, but I wouldn't want to waste his time and my time by possibly having to send them back because they do not fit my set requirements ( whcih is ex-nt or better cards and not the crap that Goose is offering)
As far what Goose has to offer.....I will defer to Boopots short but true thoughts about Ex or worse cards.......
....Some people's crap is other people's gold......
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
I'm not sure that I called the cards "crap". That was your doing. You're taking quite a leap there speaking of things that you know absolutely nothing about. There are PLENTY of cards in there that are not OC and do not have problems...I merely mentioned the worst of the worst.
Apparently there always has to be some elitist jackasses on every board....the coin board has them and now I've discovered the first one on here.
Crap. Yep...I pulled 86 pieces of crap out of our 2 boxes for a submission. It would be fantastic if I knew you needed several of them.
<< <i>I am about to move onto the next phase in my adventures with these old Topps and Fleer Baseball cards once I finish going thru them one last time.
If I were to post a "For Sale" thread on here for raw cards......I'm no PSA grader but after submitting a few hundred of these things I have an good idea on an approximate grade and whether or not the card is 0/C. The MC thing is the only thing I have missed when submitting....How do I go about pricing the cards?
solicit for specific wants, dig them out, and then arrive at a price? 98 percent of what I have left are commons.
some are OC, some are just plain beat to hell, some are very nice but o/c, some have wax marks (I'm not about to remove that from all of them if I'm not submitting them)
give me some ideas folks!
Thanks! >>
Lostdart said:
<< <i>I didn't read the entirety of goose's first post particully the line which says all his cards still to be unloaded are crap. >>
I think somebody's a couple of darts short of a full board.
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."