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Get the 1981 Types right - once & for all


No one seems to be able to tell the difference between the 1981 proof types and far too many people have been given misleading information (although it is certainly well meant). Check Overstock, ebay, and even some market dealers - they list any "clear S" as an instant Type II ... which is incorrect. Even Ken Potter's page needs the pictures updated (one is upside down). Mr. Potter gives very good information on his website - I am not trying to insult him, but comend him for his work in educating people. More needs to be done.

The fact of the matter is, that just like the 1979 types, there are several interpretations. Here is excellent information on the 79 types

As dies deteriorate they go through a metamorphasis of erosion (picture a sand castle in the rain). So it is easier to see latter stage coins, but early stage coins still exist. The easiest way to spot "clear S" 1981 type 1 coins is to remember that the '81 type 1 IS the '79 type 2 !!

The type 1 mint mark is round on the top surface (Like a tube bent into an S shape) with no bulbs on the sherifs.
The type 2 mint mark is flat on the top surface (put that tube in a vice) with bulbs on the sherifs.

image

As you can see, to the untrained eye the two mint marks look fairly similar. But now you know the difference.

Now you'll know if you're buying a type 2, that (hopefully) you're getting a type 2 and not a type 1 ...

and hopefully those of you selling them will also know the difference ......... peace.
Ignorance isn't bliss ... It's just STUPID

Comments

  • GemineyeGemineye Posts: 5,374
    Good comparison pix........................image
    ......Larry........image
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,701 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The problem comes because there are different striking characteristics that can
    lend the type 1 some of the characteristics of the type 2. There is also a type 3
    that can be easily mistaken for the type 2.

    The flatness of the surface is the tip-off you use to check for the openess at the
    top of the S. As a rule of thumb, if you aren't certain it's type 2 then it isn't.
    Tempus fugit.
  • JRoccoJRocco Posts: 14,277 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>The problem comes because there are different striking characteristics that can
    lend the type 1 some of the characteristics of the type 2. There is also a type 3
    that can be easily mistaken for the type 2.

    The flatness of the surface is the tip-off you use to check for the openess at the
    top of the S. As a rule of thumb, if you aren't certain it's type 2 then it isn't. >>



    Very very good advice.
    Some coins are just plain "Interesting"
  • kiyotekiyote Posts: 5,580 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I quickly gave up and bought my SBA type 2's slabbed only..

    Not just for *my* benefit of knowing they're the real thing, but for any buyer's assurances when I go to sell later.
    "I'll split the atom! I am the fifth dimension! I am the eighth wonder of the world!" -Gef the talking mongoose.
  • pontiacinfpontiacinf Posts: 8,915 ✭✭


    << <i>The problem comes because there are different striking characteristics that can
    lend the type 1 some of the characteristics of the type 2. There is also a type 3
    that can be easily mistaken for the type 2.

    The flatness of the surface is the tip-off you use to check for the openess at the
    top of the S. As a rule of thumb, if you aren't certain it's type 2 then it isn't. >>



    pay attention to the above, clad nailed it to the wall
    image

    Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill

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