Autographed items

FL70

Hi all,

First post.

I've got 3 autographed items and I'm wondering what to do about authenticating them.

1) A Warren Spahn/Hank Aaron autographed B&W 8x10 photograph. I got this signed about 20 years ago at a card show.

2) A 1985 KC Royals pennant that I got signed by most of the team when they visited the Senators from KS/MO. (Note: The one in this photo is the closest thing I could find. The one I have does not say 20th Ann., it has a simple banner with the typed names of all the players.) Signatures: Brett, Saberhagen, White, Wilson, Wathan, Jackson, Black, Liebrandt, Balboni, Jones, Orta, Biancalana, Concepcion, Sundberg, Beckwith, Howser, & Kaufman.

3) A baseball autographed by most of the 1979 Red Sox (no Yaz).

1 & 2 were signed in front of me and 3 was obtained by my mother, so they're all legit. I'm just wondering about having them authenticated for value.

Can anyone ballpark (haha) the cost of getting them authenticated and what that would do to the value of each?

Many thanks for any info,
Fred

fsjeter

In the top right hand corner of this page is a link to PSA/DNA. Anytime you get the signatures authenticated it enhances the value. If you're not planning on selling the items, I wouldn't worry about getting them authenticated. That said, I believe the costs would be as follows:

1. $20.00 (extra if you also want it graded).
2. $100.00
3. Depends on the number of signatures and the cost of the most valuable sig. With no Yaz, I would say $100 if there are less than 27 sigs or $150 if more.

Scott

FL70

Hey Scott,

Thanks for the reply. Based on the estimated costs you provided, if I were to sell them, do you think the authentication would be cost prohibitive? Meaning, would the cost of PSA/DNA be more than, or at least a large part of, the final saleable value? I really have little idea of what these items would be worth, both before and after authentication.

Also, in regards to card grading, I have about, oh a jillion baseball/basketball/football cards - the bulk from the mid 80's to mid 90's. Besides cards that are obviously in bad shape (and I know this is relative to the age), what is the best way to determine which cards should be submitted? And what's the most cost effective way to go about it?

Thanks again for your knowledge.

Fred

lawnmowerman

<< <i>

Also, in regards to card grading, I have about, oh a jillion baseball/basketball/football cards - the bulk from the mid 80's to mid 90's. Besides cards that are obviously in bad shape (and I know this is relative to the age), what is the best way to determine which cards should be submitted? And what's the most cost effective way to go about it?

Thanks again for your knowledge.

Fred >>

Hi Fred, Welcome aboard. Glad to have you. In regards to your question, it all depends on what grades you would be happy with. What I do is take whatever cards I am thinking of grading and sit by my window with a magnifying glass. The sunlight will let you see things on your cards you cant see with artificial light. I look at centering first. Check the corners for wear or damage, do the same for the edges. The surface you want to check for print dots, gloss loss, scratches and little wrinkles or bubbles. If you have a card thats not perfect and can live with a lesser grade then its up to you to determine if its worth it to spend the money on grading.
There is nothing like pulling your own cards, sending them to be graded and getting a 10. Its really a thrill for me that never gets old. Have fun

Matt

Stone193

Hi Fred

Welcome!

I just wanted to ad that I think the photo with Aaron and Spahn is really nice!

If you are not planning to sell them and got the sigs yourself...I say, why spend the money on authentication - after all you know they're good and you can pick up a case of Bud instead!

Good luck if you send them in.
And don't be a stranger - the mo da betta here!
your friend
mike

FL70

<< <i>I look at centering first. Check the corners for wear or damage, do the same for the edges. The surface you want to check for print dots, gloss loss, scratches and little wrinkles or bubbles. If you have a card thats not perfect and can live with a lesser grade then its up to you to determine if its worth it to spend the money on grading. Matt >>


Matt,

Do the standards apply respective to age? i.e. Are the standards for 20/40/60 year old cards the same as they are for brand new cards?

Thanks again (again),
Fred