So, you wanna collect Buffalo Nickels? (Part 2)
BuffaloIronTail
Posts: 7,484 ✭✭✭✭✭
A few more thoughts about the Series, what I have learned over the years........
1) 1913-S Type I is the worst struck out of the three mints that produced Buffs.
Problems in the mound area, mintmark, and Bison detail on the reverse, along with indestinct date detail on the obverse near and including the date are common.
When you select yours, be aware of these faults.
2) 1914-D is struck softly in the center details on both the obverse and reverse. Decent looking coins are the rule........but not hammered ones. Anything above 63 in mint state is a good buy.
3) Finding a top-notch 1917-S in any grade VF or above is a definite CHALLENGE. 1917-D is not far behind, also. The horn on the Buff for this date and mint just seems to fade into the badly struck head detail, leaving most to be market-graded
4) For some reason, 1918-P has real problems with strike. For a Philly coin, this is an abberation. The central detail on the obverse, the Indians Knot, hair, and braid are indestinct. Look for one with bold central details. They can be found.
5) Good luck finding ANY 1920-D that looks decent in VF or above. If you do, buy it!. This date and mint are among the most scarce coins in higher grade in the entire Buff series.
6) 1921-S in fine is becoming RARE. I can't believe the recent price jump. If you can find one, buy it.
OK.........more to come later........comments appreciated.
1) 1913-S Type I is the worst struck out of the three mints that produced Buffs.
Problems in the mound area, mintmark, and Bison detail on the reverse, along with indestinct date detail on the obverse near and including the date are common.
When you select yours, be aware of these faults.
2) 1914-D is struck softly in the center details on both the obverse and reverse. Decent looking coins are the rule........but not hammered ones. Anything above 63 in mint state is a good buy.
3) Finding a top-notch 1917-S in any grade VF or above is a definite CHALLENGE. 1917-D is not far behind, also. The horn on the Buff for this date and mint just seems to fade into the badly struck head detail, leaving most to be market-graded
4) For some reason, 1918-P has real problems with strike. For a Philly coin, this is an abberation. The central detail on the obverse, the Indians Knot, hair, and braid are indestinct. Look for one with bold central details. They can be found.
5) Good luck finding ANY 1920-D that looks decent in VF or above. If you do, buy it!. This date and mint are among the most scarce coins in higher grade in the entire Buff series.
6) 1921-S in fine is becoming RARE. I can't believe the recent price jump. If you can find one, buy it.
OK.........more to come later........comments appreciated.
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
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Comments
I had picked up a nicely struck 20-D with full horn not too long ago, and was just getting ready to sell. May have to rethink that....!
Also have to agree on those 21-S buffalos getting much more scarce.
Keep the info coming!
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
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Proud Owner of
2 –DAMMIT BOY!!! ® Awards
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
<< <i>My wife gave me this nickel in 1977. She paid $55. Did she pay too much?
Yes I think she did.
Part of one of the buffalos legs is worn off.
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
-----
Proud Owner of
2 –DAMMIT BOY!!! ® Awards
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
"Senorita HepKitty"
"I want a real cool Kitty from Hepcat City, to stay in step with me" - Bill Carter
Here is one I picked up in 1998. Not the greastest picture.
Either way......Don't let it go. Strike is way above average.
It looks to be a 2 1/2 feather also, the inside feather looks abraided.
Pete
<< <i>1) 1913-S Type I is the worst struck out of the three mints that produced Buffs.
Problems in the mound area, mintmark, and Bison detail on the reverse, along with indestinct date detail on the obverse near and including the date are common.When you select yours, be aware of these faults.
2) 1914-D is struck softly in the center details on both the obverse and reverse. Decent looking coins are the rule........but not hammered ones. Anything above 63 in mint state is a good buy.
3) Finding a top-notch 1917-S in any grade VF or above is a definite CHALLENGE. 1917-D is not far behind, also. The horn on the Buff for this date and mint just seems to fade into the badly struck head detail, leaving most to be market-graded
A 17-D:
4) For some reason, 1918-P has real problems with strike. For a Philly coin, this is an abberation. The central detail on the obverse, the Indians Knot, hair, and braid are indestinct. Look for one with bold central details. They can be found.
5) Good luck finding ANY 1920-D that looks decent in VF or above. If you do, buy it!. This date and mint are among the most scarce coins in higher grade in the entire Buff series.
6) 1921-S in fine is becoming RARE. I can't believe the recent price jump. If you can find one, buy it.
OK.........more to come later........comments appreciated. >>
Pictures are worth 1000 words.
By the way........NICE 17-D
Pete
Look closely at MAD4MORGAN's 3-legger. I don't see the diagnostics for a genuine coin. Look for the die erosion on the indian's neck and the back leg of the buffalo. Where are the die marks leading under the buffalo? Where is the hoof of the leading (missing) leg?
I don't have the coin in hand, but I'm dubious about this coin's authenticity.
Also, there is something about that 17-S that's not quite right. Altered surfaces or maybe just an unusually well struck coin!
YJ
<------------------------------------ Got this from Carl W.!!!!!
Hell, I don't need to exercise.....I get enough just pushing my luck.
<< <i>1913-S Type I is the worst struck out of the three mints that produced Buffs. >>
Are you referring to the year 1913 exclusively? There are many years (too many to list) that have far worse strikes that 1913. Also, the Type 1's are generally superior in strike to Type 2's despite the efforts of Charles Barber (the bastage!).