Starting 1955 Topps Baseball
markmac
Posts: 412 ✭✭✭
I have always wanted to start this set. I picked up 5 PSA 5 commons for $3 each in a recent auction. Are they usually this cheap for low numbers in this condition? I would like to get the stars in at least PSA 6 and probably would go after the Koufax in a 7 and the Aaron in a 7. I will have to drop to 6's on the Mays and Clemente due to $$$$. Is it worth starting this set with PSA 5 and 6 commons? It seems every show I go to, dealers want more than this for beat up raw cards.
0
Comments
You did AWESOME if you picked up PSA 5 commons for $3 each! Not sure how I missed those (darn it). You can figure $5-$7 for a PSA 5 common, $8-$10 for a PSA 6 common (of course, sometimes more and sometimes less). I'm currently about 1/2 way through a 1955 set with all cards graded PSA 4, 5, or 6.
Patience is the key, but I would agree with you 100%, you're much better off buying PSA graded off ebay than paying what card show dealers want for junky raw cards. I would absolutely recommend that you buy the 10 or 20 high dollar cards graded, as it will give you peace of mind and quite honestly it will not cost you much more than buying them raw.
Good luck on your set, excellent choice! Just remember not to bid if detroitfan2 is the current high bidder !
-Tom (detroitfan2)
Mark
Depends on what you're goal is and what you mean by 'worth"
IMO I would say yes it is worth it, especially if you can get them for less then grading fees. A true mid grade set is IMO a beautiful thing.
What I mean by ' true midgrade' is cards that are true to the grade and not graded a 6 because of centering or other issues that downgraded them. Off graded cards should be avoided.
Steve
I agree 100%, especially for the 55 Topps set. I own several HOFers in PSA 5-7, as well as a few commons in PSA 5. There are plenty of times opportunities arise to acquire mid grade commons for less than the grading fee.
Steve, not sure what you mean by the above. Are you saying that a card that is graded, say PSA 6 because it does not meet the centering criteria for a PSA 7 should be avoided?
Thanks,
Tom
Exactly what i mean. (however each card should be considered based on its own merits).
I want true to the grade cards.
Steve
I want true to the grade cards.
Steve, can you explain what you mean? Are you basically saying if it's centering that is a card's only flaw, avoid it? I'm missing your point here, but I'd like to understand. I have PSA 6's that you can slice bread with that might be centered 75/25, and I have PSA 6's that are perfectly centered with some touched corners. To me, they're both great (and undervalued) cards.
Yes I prefer the centered with 3 touched corners version of a 6 then a sharp cornered one that has been downgraded from an 8 or 7 because of a centering flaw.
To each his own. I guess.
Steve, can you explain what you mean? Are you basically saying if it's centering that is a card's only flaw, avoid it? I'm missing your point here, but I'd like to understand. I have PSA 6's that you can slice bread with that might be centered 75/25, and I have PSA 6's that are perfectly centered with some touched corners. To me, they're both great (and undervalued) cards.
YES
If both are great (to you) then by all means buy them. My point was and is I prefer true to the grade cards.
Steve
OK, this is the point I'm still missing. Steve, what's a "true to the grade" excellent (PSA 5ish) card?
Thanks,
Tom
Detroit lokk at this:
now as u can plainly see this example has touched corners? yet has nice centering? It is IMO true to the grade.
A card can also get a 5 grade cuz of a surface wrinkle OR be off centered to the point that it is DOWNGRADED. Those are the cards I avoid.
And refer to as 'off grade'
Steve
Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports