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1996 Mantle Finest Refractors

jmbkb4jmbkb4 Posts: 2,963
in Trading Cards & Memorabilia Forum
Hi, I just picked up this 19-card set for a good price and the cards look really good. I'm going to send in the whole set under the February special to PSA to get graded.

The question is, are the protective coverings on the cards difficult to remove? Obviously, I'd like to have the cards permanently preserved WITHOUT the plastic covering, but I don't want to damage the cards in any way.

So......what are people's thoughts and does anyone have any hints about removing the protective coating? I've never owned a card with it.

THANKS!

Comments

  • RamblerRambler Posts: 88
    IMO I'd keep the coating on there.

    Just a thought, I have a set of those, I matted them along with an autographed Mantle picture in the middle, looks beautiful hanging over my fireplace in my basement image
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,435 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I had a McGwire insert card where the protective coating had peeled a bit on the corner.

    So, the only thing to do was remove it. It peeled off really easy and the card under it looked great!

    Keeping the protective covering seems to be a "price guide" generated thing. Me personally? I would not want to have a card permanently holdered that way since you can't see the card - tho I understand the whole "value" thing.

    The protective coating was done to cut down on the scratching and chipping of cards during the cutting process - it was probably never the mindset of Topps for people to keep it on - and that's a guess on my part.

    So, if you are doing it for investment/future resale? I agree, the cover should stay on.

    mike
    Mike
  • ldfergldferg Posts: 6,745 ✭✭✭
    i agree with stone on this one. if you're slabbing for personal collection, i'd remove it. it comes off rather easily as stone mentioned.


    Thanks,

    David (LD_Ferg)



    1985 Topps Football (starting in psa 8) - #9 - started 05/21/06
  • jmbkb4jmbkb4 Posts: 2,963
    I tend to only collect for myself, and the hobby is just that for me -- a hobby -- and not a business.

    But I am cognisant of the potential loss of inherent value if I do rip the coating off and leave a dinged corner.

    These are all good thoughts, and I'll keep them all in mind. Still haven't decided what to do yet or how to proceed.
  • bsfastballbsfastball Posts: 455 ✭
    the coating is very easy to remove, and you should get mostly 10's on them if they are centered
  • onlychildonlychild Posts: 312 ✭
    It's your option. Here is mine with the coating on. At the time I believe it was the first graded. Personally I think they look better w/o the coating but can get scratched easily.

    image
  • sagardsagard Posts: 1,900 ✭✭✭
    Peel them. You'll enjoy them more and as you know what you just paid for them you are going to get rich or go broke selling them.
  • AkbarCloneAkbarClone Posts: 2,476 ✭✭✭
    While we are on the topic of Refractors and the peel--could someone answer this question for me?

    For certain years, when looking at Beckett checklists, they'll list this:

    Football cards:
    1998 Finest
    1998 Finest No-Protectors
    1998 Finest Refractors
    1998 Finest No-Protector Refractors

    does this mean they issued cards both with and without the protector peel (as seperate sets) for 1998? They do not do this with 1996 or 1997 Finest football cards. For 1996 and 1997, they simply list "Finest" and "Finest Refractors" in the checklists (with no mention of Protectors)

    The same thing happens with baseball card checklists.
    For the years 1993-1997, they only list "Finest" and "Finest Refractors--but for 1998 they list:
    1998 Finest
    1998 Finest No-Protectors
    1998 Finest Refractors
    1998 Finest No-Protectors Refractors

    Can someone explain this to me? I would be very grateful for any insight. I'd like to know because, while I am not collecting these entire sets--I am working on player collections that have cards for these years in question, and need to know what I should be looking for.

    Thanks for any help.

    James
    I collect Vintage Cards, Commemorative Sets, and way too many vintage and modern player collections in Baseball (180 players), Football (175 players), and Basketball (87 players). Also have a Dallas Cowboy team collection.
  • StingrayStingray Posts: 8,843 ✭✭✭
    Agreed, peel them. I have a finest hockey set from the first year and kept the coating on for a while. Finally peeled them all off and they look 10 time better. Not sure how that effects the over all value, but the cards do look so much better without them.

    Stingray
  • FRNAllStarFRNAllStar Posts: 322
    Does anyone think the 1996 Mantle Finest cards will climb in value. When they were released they were "hot" then afer time they were "not" So anyone have any opinion on these.

    I personally think the refractors may climb in value and not the Normal print Finest Mantle. Although I do not know the population of Mantle refractors?
  • jmbkb4jmbkb4 Posts: 2,963


    << <i>Does anyone think the 1996 Mantle Finest cards will climb in value. When they were released they were "hot" then afer time they were "not" So anyone have any opinion on these.

    I personally think the refractors may climb in value and not the Normal print Finest Mantle. Although I do not know the population of Mantle refractors? >>


    I think they should only go up in value, relative to their current value. I mean, if you can buy a set for $8 per card, how the hell can you go wrong?

    I mean....
    It's MANTLE
    And they're REFRACTORS.

    I couldn't be happier!
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