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What do you consider High Grade??

Just curious, what everyone else thinks about this?

What do you consider high grade?

You always see listings, and people always say high grade this, or high grade that. Only then when you decide to open the listing are you disappointed, when you see the high grade card is a PSA 6 or 7.

As I am sure you figured out now, I think high grade is anything PSA 8 or above.

Your thoughts?

Comments

  • bobbybakerivbobbybakeriv Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭✭
    I agree. I consider "high grade" 8 or better.
  • bobsbbcardsbobsbbcards Posts: 3,254 ✭✭✭
    I would put date ranges on what I would expect if someone touted a card as "High Grade."

    1981 to date - PSA 10
    1972 to 1980 - PSA 9
    1954 to 1971 - PSA 8
    dawn of time to 1953 - PSA 7
  • carew4mecarew4me Posts: 3,470 ✭✭✭✭
    I like Bobs.

    Loves me some shiny!
  • 1420sports1420sports Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭
    1960 to present - PSA 8

    1950 to 59 - PSA 7

    30's and 40's - PSA 5

    PSA 4 for anything prior to the 33 Goudey set
    collecting various PSA and SGC cards
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    For me, it depends on the set.

    1914 Cracker Jack: 5 or 6

    1915 Cracker Jack: 7 or higher

    T-206: 7 or higher

    E-103: 4 or higher

    Felin's Franks: I don't care - if it exists, it is already high-grade in my opinion.
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • I would probably say that anything that was mass produced....i.e...1948 to 1967.....PSA 8.

    anything from 1968 to 1983-4?? I have to admit I am not too familiar with the newer issues except when I was a kid....PSA 9

    Anything above that....PSA 10.

    Now naturally there are exceptions.....1971, high grade I would say PSA 8's......1968 & 9....that again with be PSA 9, since they are so plentiful.

    Personally, I doubt I would collect anything above 1978, since there just really isnt anything there worth it. In most cases, the grading would cost as much as the cards themselves, so what is the sense? Unless nostalgic.

    P.S....another thought, that just popped into my little mind.....high grade could possibly equal where a common is over say $50 in SMR value.
  • In my mind, it depends on the set, the year it was produced, and the scarcity of the cards.

    For 1971 Topps, I might say 7 or better, but for 1972 Topps, I'd say 8 or 9.

    For 1933 Goudey I might say 7 or better. But for 1938 Goudey I might say 6 or better, because 38 Goudeys are much more scarce. There is precisely one graded 1938 Goudey set complete at 8, and perhaps four others with a chance of ever getting that high between the PSA and SGC registries.

    For E107s, I might say 3 or better. For 1913 National Game, or 1933 S&S Game, I would still say 8 or better, because they have rounded corners.

    For T206s, I might say 6 or better, but for T205s, I might say 5 because the gold borders chip so easily.

    Then, there's an issue like Diamond Stars - the mid numbers are fairly easy to find in higher grades. But the low numbers were printed on inferior paper, so it's a lot tougher. The high numbers are very scarce. So I might say anything above a 5 in the low numbers is high grade, anything above a 7 in the mid numbers, and everything above a 5 in the high numbers.

    No easy answer to this question, but it's a great question nonetheless.

    -Al
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