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Electrolysis
goldrush00013
Posts: 2,478 ✭
I posted this link on how to build an electrolysis rig for cleaning coins and relics a while back. I tried to bump my original thread but it won't let me reply to it. (I guess because it is an archived message?) So here it is again for our detector newbies.
Electrolysis
One thing that I will add which was posted in the original thread by Windwispersintrees is this:
1. Don't alligator clip a coin on it's surface like shown, unless you like teeth marks/scratches on the face.
Instead, take a piece of stiff insulated wire, strip 1/8" off the end going in the water, and then bend the wire to cradle the coin around the rims, with the bare wire end making contact to the reeded edge of the coin. Strip the other end, and alligator clip it and leave that part out of the water.
2. Don't use salt/lemon juice....a bit too caustic/corrosive. Use regular baking soda or washing soda.
3. Check coins carefully while they run. Time to clean depends on how dirty, how close to the anode, the solution etc.
3 minutes in one instance may be much too long in another.
4. You can also use a battery charger if you don't have a wall adapter. Battery charger also works for cleaning large rusty objects.
Also some advice from Lordmarcovan from the original thread:
One thing I remember is this: don't use the same solution for different kinds of metals. For instance, if you have just cleaned a copper coin, don't put a silver one in without changing the solution, unless you want an orangey-looking dime or quarter!
Another is, be very wary of using electrolysis on heavily corroded coins or other objects that might be "unstable". My first dug large cent was a circa 1796-1807 Draped Bust, as you could tell from some of the details, but when I tried to "zap" it, I "burnt it up". Now it's a featureless brown slug.
I always dumped the sludge down the toilet after emptying the container. The author of that page is not exaggerating- it's really gross-looking and smells bad. You don't wanna get it on any clothing or upholstery or you'll never get the stains out.
GR
Electrolysis
One thing that I will add which was posted in the original thread by Windwispersintrees is this:
1. Don't alligator clip a coin on it's surface like shown, unless you like teeth marks/scratches on the face.
Instead, take a piece of stiff insulated wire, strip 1/8" off the end going in the water, and then bend the wire to cradle the coin around the rims, with the bare wire end making contact to the reeded edge of the coin. Strip the other end, and alligator clip it and leave that part out of the water.
2. Don't use salt/lemon juice....a bit too caustic/corrosive. Use regular baking soda or washing soda.
3. Check coins carefully while they run. Time to clean depends on how dirty, how close to the anode, the solution etc.
3 minutes in one instance may be much too long in another.
4. You can also use a battery charger if you don't have a wall adapter. Battery charger also works for cleaning large rusty objects.
Also some advice from Lordmarcovan from the original thread:
One thing I remember is this: don't use the same solution for different kinds of metals. For instance, if you have just cleaned a copper coin, don't put a silver one in without changing the solution, unless you want an orangey-looking dime or quarter!
Another is, be very wary of using electrolysis on heavily corroded coins or other objects that might be "unstable". My first dug large cent was a circa 1796-1807 Draped Bust, as you could tell from some of the details, but when I tried to "zap" it, I "burnt it up". Now it's a featureless brown slug.
I always dumped the sludge down the toilet after emptying the container. The author of that page is not exaggerating- it's really gross-looking and smells bad. You don't wanna get it on any clothing or upholstery or you'll never get the stains out.
GR
Analog Rules! Knobs and Switches are cool!
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Comments
I never used lemon juice- I always used just salt. I suppose I will try baking soda.
<< <i>1. Don't alligator clip a coin on it's surface like shown, unless you like teeth marks/scratches on the face.
Instead, take a piece of stiff insulated wire, strip 1/8" off the end going in the water, and then bend the wire to cradle the coin around the rims, with the bare wire end making contact to the reeded edge of the coin. Strip the other end, and alligator clip it and leave that part out of the water. >>
How do you keep the coin from falling off? Why put an alligator clip on the other end if you are leaving it out of the water? How will it work if the other end is out of the water?
<< <i>How do you keep the coin from falling off? Why put an alligator clip on the other end if you are leaving it out of the water? How will it work if the other end is out of the water? >>
Here are pics of my rig.
I use a single strand 12 gauge wire, which is easy to bend and stiff enough to keep pressure on the coin.
Note the other end which connects to the gator clip is bent down so it hangs on the side of my jar.
I bend the wire loop so that it is a smaller diameter than the coin I intend to clean. Then I gently force the coin into the cradle so the only spot the wire connects is on the rim of the coin as not to scratch the face.
Now I stick the coin in my jar and attach the clips. ( really crappy pics)
You don't have troubles with the coin falling out? And it gets a good enough connection for the current to flow into it?
<< <i>Oho- now I see what you are talking about. I'll hafta try that.
You don't have troubles with the coin falling out? And it gets a good enough connection for the current to flow into it? >>
The wire keeps good pressure on the coin and I have'nt lost one yet. Sometimes on a really crusty copper I have to rub the wire on the coin edge a few times for better contact but not too often.
I have used lemon juice and salt together,then when I'm done scrub the coin down with backing soda.
GR how well do's the method with just backing soda do??HH,Tom
<< <i>GR how well do's the method with just backing soda do??HH,Tom >>
To date I have only used Arm & Hammer Washing Soda. It works like a charm! An added bonus is that when the coin starts fizzing it makes soap bubbles at the top which give off a somewhat pleasant odor, as opposed to the stench associated with the process.
I'll try to dig up my scans here in a moment. The scanner picked up a lot of details before cleaning that could not be seen with the naked eye.
Edit: Found them. Remember the before pictures in hand you could barely, just barely, tell what it was.
Before 1
Before 2
After 1
After 2
I really don't think much more can be done to it without damaging the details even further. Open to suggestions though.
Positive BST: WhiteThunder (x2), Ajaan, onefasttalon, mirabela, Wizard1, cucamongacoin, mccardguy1
Negative BST: NONE!
I really don't think much more can be done to it without damaging the details even further. Open to suggestions though. >>
Here is a method that I've only tried once and it was on a Jefferson war nickel (35% silver). I have not tried it on any other coins so if you do try it, ensure that it's on something that you don't care about. I heard about this method for cleanign sivler coins from a guy in my MD club.
Take an empty soda/beer can and turn it upside down. In the indentation on the bottom, place your coin and enough white vinegar to cover it. Let it sit ( I did my coin in late evening and took it out next morning). Then rub between your fingers with some baking soda (and a little bit of water to make a rough paste). It cleaned all the gunk off of the coin.
with the cleaning process?
Al
The topic came up again, and I thought I'd save this worthy thread from the archival dustheap.