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To Grade or not to Grade..that is my question?

I have begun considering submitting cards for grading to PSA. I have various cards ranging from 1909 to the present, but I'm interested in getting my higher value cards graded. The grading process confounds me a little bit as I have always just purchased cards with the best centering, corners, edges, and overall condition that I could. I have been successful in obtaining some really nice cards patiently buying this way. But not having a comparison mechanism (i.e. graded price versus un-graded price) I don't know if it's worth grading them or not. In other words... Would an ungraded card in great condition be worth just as much as a graded card that might get graded (subjectively) low?

Comments

  • bobbybakerivbobbybakeriv Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭✭
    If your cards are in nice condition, it behooves you to get them graded. You will reap great benefit monetarily.
  • If they are truly in nice condition especially the prewar cards there is no comparison between what you can get raw and what they sell for graded. Graded can sell for many many times what the same card would sell for raw.image
  • It really depends upon the year and how nice the cards are that you have. The older the card, the lower grade card you can submit. For example, ex and ex-mt tobacco cards can be submitted but once you get into the mid to late sixties it is not worth submitting cards unless they are at least NM-MT. You also have to pay attention to the grading specials. Grading fees can add up quickly if you are submitting at full price or an expedited service.

    My suggestion would be to send in a small initial order of your nicest cards so that you can get a feel for the grading standards. You must buy a 10x loupe to review the cards before you submit them. It is the only good way to see the corner and edge wear. Otherwise, what looks to the naked eye to be a mint card could easily be EX or EX-MT.
    View my inventory of PSA Graded Cards at My Ebay Store
  • All good advice!
  • MorrellManMorrellMan Posts: 3,238 ✭✭✭
    Get yourself a halogen light ($10 at Target) - the bright light will enable you to discover any minute wrinkles or paper creases that will significantly lower the grade of a card. You really have to examine your cards carefully and objectively. Good luck.
    Mark (amerbbcards)


    "All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
  • RonBurgundyRonBurgundy Posts: 5,491 ✭✭✭
    I would only add that grading makes sense depending on what you have paid for these cards. The less you have invested in them already, the more it makes financial sense to have them graded (assuming the condition is nice). For example, say you have a card that is a near mint card with a value of $50. You only paid $8 for the card. You go ahead and send the card in and pay the $15 grading fee (plus postage) and the card is graded a PSA 7. You have a $23 (and change) investment in a $50 card, and it is much more likely that you can profit from that investment with the card being graded. As a general rule the less I have in a card and the nicer it is, the more likely I am to have it graded, regardless of how old it is. The only exception to that of course is when the grading fee exceeds the value of the card itself.
    Ron Burgundy

    Buying Vintage, all sports.
    Buying Woody Hayes, Les Horvath, Vic Janowicz, and Jesse Owens autographed items
  • To all who responded to this question THANK YOU!!! very much for your opinions and insight. It's really appreciated. I am VERY new to this kind of thing (forums) so I hope I'm posting this correctly

    Thanks again to you all,
    Norm
  • bobbybakerivbobbybakeriv Posts: 2,186 ✭✭✭✭
    No problem Norm. Your post is absolutely on target and you are doing it correctly. Good luck with your cards! Let us know how it all comes out.

    Bobby
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