Nice Lincolns. I love all of them. When I continue to build my sets next year and expanding some of them I will be asking you for extras. You have a great eye for those Lincolns.
No, I think most BU roll sellers probably couldn't be considered wannabees! (And the ones I didn't get graded came from a trade with a collector for ones I did get graded.)
Thanks Zk! I love every coin in your 1980 mint set. Thanks for the comment about the 80-d Lincoln (I sold him ) My 80-d has an even nicer obverse, just that one speck on the reverse so it's currently graded ms66.
<< <i>No, I think most BU roll sellers probably couldn't be considered wannabees! (And the ones I didn't get graded came from a trade with a collector for ones I did get graded.)
Thanks Zk! I love every coin in your 1980 mint set. Thanks for the comment about the 80-d Lincoln (I sold him ) My 80-d has an even nicer obverse, just that one speck on the reverse so it's currently graded ms66. >>
Yes you did sell me that 1980 D and it was worth every last cent (no pun intended). It is a monster 1980 D cent. I have seen at least 3 of the 25 ms67's in hand and probably at least 4-5 more on ebay and this is by far the nicest I have seen.
Soon I have a feeling I will be needing many more just like it, as the set I have decided to build will take lots of time, patience, and probably a little cash too.
I have to agree on your 1980 D, it is a very nice 66. Looks like that one carbon speck and a little tiny bit of obverse chatter in the fields or is it the holder?
Nah, the fields are very clean. It's got tiny smooth spots at the high points of the portrait (that's those dark specks). Actually, who cares anymore as I just got 100 more rolls of 80-d and I am going to have an even nicer one! Your 80-d was the best of the 4 I got graded. I was fortunate Gary Shaffstall sold me some of his rolls rather than searching them all himself! He got about 5 or 6 ms67rd's graded too. He is from Denver and the rolls were from a bag that had never been moved out of the city. I think he said he also sold some rolls to some guy who wanted markfree coins to make tokens out of! Can you believe that!
<< <i>Nah, the fields are very clean. It's got tiny smooth spots at the high points of the portrait (that's those dark specks). Actually, who cares anymore as I just got 100 more rolls of 80-d and I am going to have an even nicer one! Your 80-d was the best of the 4 I got graded. I was fortunate Gary Shaffstall sold me some of his rolls rather than searching them all himself! He got about 5 or 6 ms67rd's graded too. He is from Denver and the rolls were from a bag that had never been moved out of the city. I think he said he also sold some rolls to some guy who wanted markfree coins to make tokens out of! Can you believe that! >>
awww tokens, He should search them and then give the guy the ms65 ones, hehe!
LincolnRule: LOL. I will be 78 years old in 2030 and I expect to be alive but I might not be as able to resist my family's weekly desire to sell my coins for me!
I happen to think that bankwrapped memorial cents through mid 1982 offers incredible safety in purchasing power for collectors starting out. Most obw rolls can be found for $1 or $2 and besides the face value, offers growth potential in the copper content of the cents themselves and the numismatic value in the coins. Someday the obw rolls themselves will be collectibles in themselves for the various kind of wrappings used by the various Federal Reserve member banks.
I call it the quadruple play. A lot of fun too with a great deal of safety as well.
I have a number of intact Lincoln rolls I'm holding for the same reasons (mostly dates where I already have a great coin of). I really wanted to save my obw 83-p quarter roll intact, but I couldn't resist. I think a nice 83-p quarter for my collection is much more fun to look at than an unopened roll. Actually, I didn't find anything nicer than what I already had though, and sold the roll for a $150 loss. Doh!
Just to prove this point, I would like to share with everyone a side-by-side comparison of two different 84-D Lincolns that Jaime made and then sold to me (see link below). The coin on the bottom is one that Jaime had sold to me temporarily until a much better example (that he made) came back from PCGS. The coin on the top is the one that I currently have in my collection. This photo is a perfect example of an "average" coin for the grade and a coin that is great for the grade. I wish I could afford that 68 you have but I guess this will have to do for now
The '84-D is far tougher than most people realize. This coin is not only tough in spectacular condition but can require great effort to find in nice choice unc be- cause of plating flaws, carbon spots and even poor strikes.
84-d was the last roll I needed to complete a roll set. After looking for a roll for a month I gave up and bought 50 BU singles from a dealer (cut out of mint sets). Over the next 2 years I did manage to buy 200 or so 84-d rolls from many sources. Every single one had spots to some degree or another. Then I finally got one spot free roll. Luckily they were markfree too and although the strikes weren't terrific, there were a few nice enough for high grades. I got 5 ms68's in fact, changed the pop from 9 to 14. I wouldn't be surprised if most of those previous 9 are far overgraded too. Anyway, the ms68 I saved has the best strike. You can see ellewood's has a little strike weakness too. The last ms68 I still have for sale ($1850) has perfect as struck surfaces but some of the same strike weakness.
Lincolnsrule - make sure you look for the D/S when searching those 1980-D rolls. I bought a box of 50 rolls from an AZ dealer several years ago to search for the OMM, they're still sitting in the box. At least now I know to look for MS66 and MS67 examples, too.
Also, just after I got married, I bought out the roll stock of a small-time local dealer for just above face, at least one roll and as many as four for every date from 1957 through 1994. I sort of knew some of the mid-1980s rolls were worth more intact, but can you give me some idea which ones are the real prizes (i.e., which ones not to crack open)?
Thanks, Sean Reynolds
Incomplete planchets wanted, especially Lincoln Cents & type coins.
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
Hi Sean. Yeah, I've been slowly looking for 80 d/s. I thought I found one yesterday as it had something upper right above mintmark, but comparing it on coppercoins.com it's not it.
The rolls that are worth the most, just considering them BU rolls are
82 z sd $35-$50 86-p+d, $25-$35 each 82 c sd, 82 z ld,82-d z-ld,83-d,84-d $10-$15 each 82-d z sd, 83,84,85,87pd,88pd,89pd carry smaller premiums, like $4-$8 or so.
Not sure what to say about intact vs opened. Intact rolls of any date will bring premiums on ebay. I've paid maybe $10 ea before for some common rolls like 62-p and as much as $35 for an 84-d roll before. Opened rolls will tend to sell more on a wholesale level.
Comments
Check my ebay BIN or Make Offers!!
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
Thanks Zk! I love every coin in your 1980 mint set. Thanks for the comment about the 80-d Lincoln (I sold him ) My 80-d has an even nicer obverse, just that one speck on the reverse so it's currently graded ms66.
<< <i>No, I think most BU roll sellers probably couldn't be considered wannabees! (And the ones I didn't get graded came from a trade with a collector for ones I did get graded.)
Thanks Zk! I love every coin in your 1980 mint set. Thanks for the comment about the 80-d Lincoln (I sold him ) My 80-d has an even nicer obverse, just that one speck on the reverse so it's currently graded ms66. >>
Yes you did sell me that 1980 D and it was worth every last cent (no pun intended). It is a monster 1980 D cent. I have seen at least 3 of the 25 ms67's in hand and probably at least 4-5 more on ebay and this is by far the nicest I have seen.
Soon I have a feeling I will be needing many more just like it, as the set I have decided to build will take lots of time, patience, and probably a little cash too.
I have to agree on your 1980 D, it is a very nice 66. Looks like that one carbon speck and a little tiny bit of obverse chatter in the fields or is it the holder?
Check my ebay BIN or Make Offers!!
WS
<< <i>Nah, the fields are very clean. It's got tiny smooth spots at the high points of the portrait (that's those dark specks). Actually, who cares anymore as I just got 100 more rolls of 80-d and I am going to have an even nicer one! Your 80-d was the best of the 4 I got graded. I was fortunate Gary Shaffstall sold me some of his rolls rather than searching them all himself! He got about 5 or 6 ms67rd's graded too. He is from Denver and the rolls were from a bag that had never been moved out of the city. I think he said he also sold some rolls to some guy who wanted markfree coins to make tokens out of! Can you believe that! >>
awww tokens, He should search them and then give the guy the ms65 ones, hehe!
Check my ebay BIN or Make Offers!!
I happen to like keeping my BU rolls of Lincoln memorials intact!!!
Someday someone from the year 2030 or so will want to rifle through them!!
I hope to be around to resist that!!!!
By the way, I'm only 28 so I should be alive in 2030 (I hope you are too). I'll buy them. It's a deal!
I happen to think that bankwrapped memorial cents through mid 1982 offers incredible safety in purchasing power for collectors starting out. Most obw rolls can be found for $1 or $2 and besides the face value, offers growth potential in the copper content of the cents themselves and the numismatic value in the coins. Someday the obw rolls themselves will be collectibles in themselves for the various kind of wrappings used by the various Federal Reserve member banks.
I call it the quadruple play. A lot of fun too with a great deal of safety as well.
They will corrode instead!
I happen to agree with you on the 82-98 rolls but they are no longer priced at beginner level prices of the 59-82 rolls.
Just to prove this point, I would like to share with everyone a side-by-side comparison of two different 84-D Lincolns that Jaime made and then sold to me (see link below). The coin on the bottom is one that Jaime had sold to me temporarily until a much better example (that he made) came back from PCGS. The coin on the top is the one that I currently have in my collection. This photo is a perfect example of an "average" coin for the grade and a coin that is great for the grade. I wish I could afford that 68 you have but I guess this will have to do for now
Thanks again Jaime -
Toby
1984-D Side-by-Side Comparison
The '84-D is far tougher than most people realize. This coin is not only tough in
spectacular condition but can require great effort to find in nice choice unc be-
cause of plating flaws, carbon spots and even poor strikes.
Also, just after I got married, I bought out the roll stock of a small-time local dealer for just above face, at least one roll and as many as four for every date from 1957 through 1994. I sort of knew some of the mid-1980s rolls were worth more intact, but can you give me some idea which ones are the real prizes (i.e., which ones not to crack open)?
Thanks,
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
The rolls that are worth the most, just considering them BU rolls are
82 z sd $35-$50
86-p+d, $25-$35 each
82 c sd, 82 z ld,82-d z-ld,83-d,84-d $10-$15 each
82-d z sd, 83,84,85,87pd,88pd,89pd carry smaller premiums, like $4-$8 or so.
Not sure what to say about intact vs opened. Intact rolls of any date will bring premiums on ebay. I've paid maybe $10 ea before for some common rolls like 62-p and as much as $35 for an 84-d roll before. Opened rolls will tend to sell more on a wholesale level.