Whats up with screwdrivers??

30AnvZ28

I have read that many of you use screwdrivers when hunting... why is this?? I can see if your going to "stab" the ground in hopes of hitting it... but what about damage to the item, what about if the item is on its side, ect... why do you use screwdrivers??

ormandh

Dull the end and "probe" with the end gently. Widen the hole and then probe from the side and push the object up through the hole. I usually put a finger in the hole and use it along with the end of the screwdriver to hold the coin as it is being retrieved. Once you get the hang of pinpointing and depth you will be able to hit the object everytime without damage. This is the only way that I have hunted for the last eight or nine years. It comes in handy when you are working in a park or someone's yard. It also looks a little less damaging than a knife or a shovel. -Dan

pocketpiececommems

I use a screwdiver for almost all of my detecting. I don't use it in a field when you don't have to worry about the holes you make. You can damage a coin or ring with a knife just as easy as you can with a scrwdiver. Like Dan said "it takes practice". Each person has their own special way of making their find. A screwdiver has gotten me onto more private property than a knife.

lordmarcovan

The screwdriver method.

(As illustrated in a Tesoro manual, from which I borrowed these pictures and text.)




<< <i>METHOD 1 - "PROBE AND DRIVER"

Used in less moist lawns where targets are not so deep (1 to 4 inches) and where “plugging” is objectionable. This method requires more practice but is much less damaging to grass than Method 2- “Plugging” shown in the next section.

After pinpointing the target, use a nonmetallic probe such as a modified fiberglass fishing rod or a metallic probe such as a blunted ice pick (the former causes less damage to the target) to locate the target depth (Figure 1A). Next insert an eight-inch screwdriver on center just above the target and rotate slightly to open the ground (Figure 1B). Now insert the screwdriver just under the target at an angle and lever the target to the surface (Figure 1C). Brush all loose dirt back into the hole and close the hole by exerting pressure all around the opening (Figure 1D). >>









The plugging method.



<< <i>METHOD 2 - “PLUGGING”

Used only where allowed in natural wooded areas and very moist lawn areas. Plugging in hard dry ground can damage grass roots leaving yellow “dead spots” in time.

After pinpointing the target, use a six-inch sturdy hunting knife to cut three sides of a four-inch cube around the target center (Figure 2A). Cutting a “hinged” cube-shaped plug rather than a complete cone-shaped plug will properly orient its return, prevent its removal by a lawnmower, and lessen the chance of scratching the target. With the knife blade, carefully pry against the cube side opposite the “hinge” and fold back (Figure 2B). Sweep the searchcoil over the plug and hole to isolate the target location. If the target is in the plug, carefully probe until located. If the target is in the hole and is not visible, probe the bottom and sides until located, then remove it (Figure 2C). Repeat sweep for additional targets. Replace all loose dirt with the plug. Seat the plug firmly with your foot (Figure 2D). >>







I'm a "plugger", myself. The screwdriver method's the best, if you can perfect it, but I never really got good at it. Some screwdriver jocks can come through an area and you'd never even know they were there. Of course, if you plug carefully enough and catch your loose dirt on an old car mat or a cloth of some sort, and replace everything carefully enough, your presence can be almost invisible as well. But sometimes in the summertime when it gets dry, the plugs might turn brown. This happened to me in one productive yard and I lost permission to return as a result. I should've watered the plugs or learned to screwdriver out the shallower stuff.