Toned Dime Question (Large Pics)

MikeinTyler

Hope you guys will tolerate a question from a Currency Forum Refugee. I bought a collection a week or so ago that had some rolls of coins that were put up in the early 60's. These are the end coins in the roll of 1961D dimes. I have not yet opened the roll except for breaking open the masking tape that the owner had placed over the end of the roll. The dime with the reverse showing is absolutely beautifully toned. In the picture below I was only able to get a small segment of the color to show but the entire surface is toned with the same colors. The obverse facing coin is less toned but still looks to have toning on around 50% of the coin.

My question is this: Assuming that the coins turn out to be Uncirculated (which I feel certain of), is there enough premium on very nicely toned 1961-d dimes to warrant sending them in for grading to warrant doing so?

Thanks for the help in advance and sorry for the large pics.

HTubbs

it all depends on the grade,and you'd have to break them out of the roll and post pics.From your pictures,it's hard to tell but they look to be lower grade uncirculated pieces(can't tell if those are really dents).If they are,it wouldn't be worth the grading fees....

-Hayden

darktone

Pretty much Roosevelts are only worth slabbing if they are super high grade or have "full torch". Nice toning will add a premium as well. Take them out of the rolls and get some good pics so we can see what the whole coin looks like. mike

HTubbs

<< <i>Hope you guys will tolerate a question from a Currency Forum Refugee. I bought a collection a week or so ago that had some rolls of coins that were put up in the early 60's. These are the end coins in the roll of 1961D dimes. I have not yet opened the roll except for breaking open the masking tape that the owner had placed over the end of the roll. The dime with the reverse showing is absolutely beautifully toned. In the picture below I was only able to get a small segment of the color to show but the entire surface is toned with the same colors. The obverse facing coin is less toned but still looks to have toning on around 50% of the coin.

My question is this: Assuming that the coins turn out to be Uncirculated (which I feel certain of), is there enough premium on very nicely toned 1961-d dimes to warrant sending them in for grading to warrant doing so?

Thanks for the help in advance and sorry for the large pics.



>>



nice nails,bro!

shmort6552

I'm no expert in dimes (or anything else for that matter!!) but I agree that they show a fair bit of wear. The bands are well worn as is the obverse. Still a great find though, looks purdy!!!

coinguy1

I don't believe that the coins imaged have been circulated/worn, but rather, are just toned and exhibit some areas of striking weakness. They might even be very choice uncirculated examples, though the odds of their being worth having certified are still quite slim.

pharmer

Even pcgs ms65-66 nicely toned Roosevelts only get a little more than the slabbing fee on ebay, I have found to my dismay. Full bands don't increase the value much, as well. It's a weak area in my opinion. Also, as I'm sure you realize, only the end coins may be toned. But you never know. I wouldn't be able to resist opening it up to see.

Oh, I stand corrected, got 39c more than the slabbing fee

Colorfulcoins

The answer is ............................ it depends. I would suggest you:

1. Open the roll. Remove the coins carefully to minimize rubbing. Only pick up coins by the edges.

2. Look for coins where the reverse has full bands. If you aren't famiiliar with what that is, check this link which is where PCGS defines what full bands is: FB Link Put those coins aside.

3. Look at the remaining coins for coins where the obverse grades a high grade (High grade = solid MS66 or better). Put coins grading MS66 aside in a pile.

4. Now look at the coins you put aside because they have full band reverses. Again, put coins graded MS66 with full bands or better aside.

These two piles of coins are the coins of interest.

5. Now comes the subjective part.....personally, the ONLY coins I'd consider sending in for grading would be:
a. Pretty toned coins that grade a solid MS66 or better (regardless of full bands or not)
b. MS66FB or MS67FB coins
c. MS67 non-bands coins

Submitting coins that don't fit into those 3 categories is probably a losing proposition.

For example, here's a 1961-D PCGS MS65 that I own, its only a MS65 but given I collect blue toned roosevelts, the 61D is tough to find with blue color. I paid $50 for it (course, I owned it previously and only got about $30 when I sold it to a Board member). Nice toning and quite a nice coin but there's a single mark that kept this coin out of a MS67 holder (a big mark on a small coin). A white MS65 would sell for $3-10.



Here's another 61D, this one is in a NGC MS67 holder. Nice obverse with a killer Target Toned reverse. Might fetch $100 on a good day. Looks full bands to me but NGC will not give it their FT designation.



Best of luck...................

shmort6552

Again...I'm not the expert but the obverse has almost no nose....If thats not wear then my 1970 pair of NIKE's will still let me dunk!!!!

coinguy1

<< <i>Again...I'm not the expert but the obverse has almost no nose....If thats not wear then my 1970 pair of NIKE's will still let me dunk!!!! >>

Shmort6552, that is NOT wear.

The nose is not the high point of the obverse design and thus not the first area which would display wear, even if the coin had been circulated. You are merely seeing a combination of soft strike and patina (which obscures your view somewhat) atop the coin's surface.

You can choose to believe me or not about the above. Either way, it is highly unlikely that you will be able to dunk, no matter what type of shoes you're wearing.