Vending Boxes?

NewJerseyMeatHook

Would somebody kindly explain the difference between vending and other unopened material?

Is the quality consistent with, say, cello, rack, wax?

Thanks, guys.

Rick

zef204

I think that it goes in this order, and some guys have posted the same order in the past:

Wax(if legit)
Rack
Vending
Cellos
Bulk Vending

envoy98

I think that's probably right. Vending can get beat up if it's been sitting out for a while, but if it comes from a sealed case it's usually pretty decent. Plus the pricing on it seems to be a bit better than cello IIRC. BBCExchange has some nice vending for sale right now, some of it is really cheap IMO. I picked up a couple. The 84 Topps vending for $20 is a great buy IMO. Mattingly rc's, lots of HOF'ers and nice 2nd year cards of some HOF'ers too. Plus I think the photography in 84 is some of the better photos from 80's topps as well.

ldferg

i would put rack ahead of wax. just in my experience.

Stone193

<< <i>i would put rack ahead of wax. just in my experience. >>


You could go in that direction in a sense that there's no "wax cards."

Pretty much my experience on rack vs wax? A toss up. Anybody got a coin?

mike

julen23

I agree w/ rack above wax.

Since I have been purchasing rack packs lately, I am inclined to believe chances of psa 10 are higher from a nice rack pack than from a wax pack (ignoring numbers and all things being equal).

Julen

ldferg

i'm not to keen on the racks that have wax packs in them. i just purchased a single 85t football rack with the wax and these did have the "gum" stains on the middle 2 cards and the color was very faded. there again, it could have just been a bad rack case or something altogether. sort of like mike said "anyone have a coin"? but they are fun to open regardless. i like to see the "bust" threads and the scans.

envoy98

<< <i> i like to see the "bust" threads and the scans >>



Well ld-I think between stone and I will have plenty of that coming in the next week or so. At least I know I will. Zef has to have some more box rips coming up too I hope.

Rick, are you going to buy some stuff to rip too? I got the bug once I started watching all of these other members busting older wax. We need more guys busting and posting!

ctsoxfan

<< <i>i would put rack ahead of wax. just in my experience. >>



No doubt about it. Racks usually yield better cards, and you don't have to worry about wax stains. I also have had terrible experience with vending lately, to the point where I would rather open cellos than vending.

Stone193

<< <i>

<< <i> i like to see the "bust" threads and the scans >>



Well ld-I think between stone and I will have plenty of that coming in the next week or so. At least I know I will. Zef has to have some more box rips coming up too I hope.

Rick, are you going to buy some stuff to rip too? I got the bug once I started watching all of these other members busting older wax. We need more guys busting and posting! >>


I emailed Steve at BBCEX to see how "clean" the 83T vending are - if they don't look that good, I will get the Michigan wax instead.

If I had the money, I would be tempted to p/u the 85D rack case - could always use a 10 Clemens!

I will let you guys know what he says - I still like the idea of mixing some vending with wax anyways.

mike

digicat

Experiences I can recall...

1991 Topps vending = everything looked lovely (sharp corners, sniper centering)

1989 Fleer cello (1) = everything looked lovely
1989 Fleer cello (2) = everything was oc 25/75 l/r

1987 Donruss wax = almost everything was l/r off center by 40/60 or more, but there was no damage to the cards (except for the wax card)
1987 Donruss rack = mixed bag, some oc stuff, some nice stuff.

1986 Topps vending = everything was nasty looking (rough edges that caused chipping on the black borders and corners)
1986 Topps wax = half of everything was nasty looking as above, but though the other half were "undamaged", they had centering issues.

Guess it depends on the year or the manufacturer

Stone193

<< <i>I had always considered cello to be a bit better, at least for some of the newer issues (mid-late 80s). It's been a toss up though. I've ripped 2 cellos of 1989 Fleer, and one came out with every single card off center 25/75 (l/r) or worse, but the other box had everything 50/50. >>


digicat
I'm not an expert on ripping but IMO, that's not the point with cellos. "Any" manner of packaging can yield OC cards.

What we are talking about with cellos is the "over-tight" packaging that actually causes corner dings in the cards. E.g. I have a Donruss rookies set that is cello packed and the McGwire top corners appear crushed from the wrapping process IMO.

Isn't this what everyone else sees with cellos?

mike

edit: Digicat - you edited this para out - hope my point will still hold?

julen23

I suck myself. I went to Nationals this year and purchased 5 1978 cello packs and 3 1978 wax pack. The results were overwhelmingly better for wax.

I have purchased some '80 and '84 cello and wax/rack packs and the cello packs were consistently less quality. I don't think you should buy cello or vending cardboard and expect to return psa 10's.

I only wish I had known the difference a couple of months ago, wasted time and money IMHO on cellos.

Julen

digicat

Hey Stone, that brings up another point that I've been thinking about..

How about factory sets as a source of gradable cards?


Is it better to spend $550 on a rack case of 1985 Donruss, or $550 on 8 factory sets of 1985 Donruss if you're looking to send stuff in for grading?


Anyone have some experience with factory set breaks? (good or bad)?

digicat

Ah, you read my post before I deleted that para. Oh well. I deleted it when I thought about it again.

I've never really had any problems with cello packs being too tight and damaging cards, except for (like in your example) glossy cards in cello. My1987 Donruss Rookies set still has it's cards sealed in that little cello brick, but I can tell already that the glossy surface on one of the corners of the McGwire has stuck to the cello and was clearly no longer attached ot the card. Nasty.

Stone193

<< <i>Hey Stone, that brings up another point that I've been thinking about..

How about factory sets as a source of gradable cards?


Is it better to spend $550 on a rack case of 1985 Donruss, or $550 on 8 factory sets of 1985 Donruss if you're looking to send stuff in for grading?


Anyone have some experience with factory set breaks? (good or bad)? >>


Again, I'm no expert but my experience with certain brands of factory has been less than stellar!

The Donuss from the early 80s was very poor - many dinged cards - especially those that were not cello packed. Again, if cello packed in the box - you run the risk of dinged cards from that kind of packaging process IMO.

Many have said that the Griffey pulled out of the UD factory set is notoriously poor and not a good buy.

In general, I think it depends on the brand/year but in general, not as good as wax and racks.

mike

ldferg

digicat, i think the 85d factory set cards are notorious for the tight wraps (i.e. cellos) and will yield more 9's than 10's vs the rack/wax packs.

stone, i pulled 4 griffey's from factory sets in the last 3 months: 2 - 8's and 2 - 9's.

NewJerseyMeatHook

Envoy:

Enjoy buying mid-70's racks. Haven't really had anything to write home about as of yet . . .

Early 80's affordable stuff is more my speed.

Been buying vintage raw "mint" advertised on eBay. Not always my definition of "mint," however. Kind of a crapshoot.

SoFLPhillyFan

<< <i>Hey Stone, that brings up another point that I've been thinking about..

How about factory sets as a source of gradable cards?


Is it better to spend $550 on a rack case of 1985 Donruss, or $550 on 8 factory sets of 1985 Donruss if you're looking to send stuff in for grading?


Anyone have some experience with factory set breaks? (good or bad)? >>



At one time I spent some bucks on numerous 85T sets, factory and hand collated. A good set since there are a number of rookies and stars. A positive for me was that the cards were in good condition, never lower than a PSA7, and as high as 9. Also had success selling the left over cards in sequentially numbered lots.

The only drawback is that you get only one of each instead of having the chance to pull numerous cards of some players.

If I was assembling a high grade set for myself I would buy a couple of factory sets to use as a base to start.

For selling or targeting specific players I'll go with racks next time after seeing the success of others here.

Stone193

<< <i>digicat, i think the 85d factory set cards are notorious for the tight wraps (i.e. cellos) and will yield more 9's than 10's vs the rack/wax packs.

stone, i pulled 4 griffey's from factory sets in the last 3 months: 2 - 8's and 2 - 9's. >>


LD
That's actually pretty darn good. I have had guys report corner dings in the 7 range.

What would a Griffey 8 go for?

mike