$5 War Savings Stamp Series 1918 (WS3)
goodpaper
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Can anyone tell me if this series of 1918 issue (payable 1923) was issued gummed or ungummed? I know later issues were gummed (i.e. series 1920) but unsure of WS3.
OK, I am not a stamp collector, I am a paper money buyer and seller. I'm not sure if it is WS2 or WS3, all I know is that the item I am looking at is a green $5 United States WAR SAVINGS Certificate Stamp, Series of 1918, payable in 1923, and there doesn't appear to be glue on the reverse, or any traces of what may have been a gummed back. It is actually an unseparated vertical pair. I am trying to determine a value or some measure of worth. Your thoughts, please.
OK, I am not a stamp collector, I am a paper money buyer and seller. I'm not sure if it is WS2 or WS3, all I know is that the item I am looking at is a green $5 United States WAR SAVINGS Certificate Stamp, Series of 1918, payable in 1923, and there doesn't appear to be glue on the reverse, or any traces of what may have been a gummed back. It is actually an unseparated vertical pair. I am trying to determine a value or some measure of worth. Your thoughts, please.
"Specializing in Small Size US currency but likely to buy anything high grade or interesting".
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Unused values of War Savings stamps are for copies with full original gum. Used values are for stamps without gum that generally have been removed from savings certificates or booklets. Caution: beware of unused stamps that have been regummed to appear unused.
Other than that, no other specific note is made on WS3. MNH value is $2250 (italicized), Mint is $1200, and used is $650. Value of WS2 is $125 in MNH, $80 in Mint, and $25 used.
WS2 was issued with perf 11, WS3 is rouletted 7 (roulettes are more like horizontal 'cuts', perfs being the traditional holes of postage stamps.)
If your pair has no visible means of seperation between the 2 stamps, it is (very remotely) possible that you have an imperf pair, which is basically an error. Scott lists a dashed pricing for one, indicating that they exist, but pricing is very unsettled. That may indicate a very rare (and possibly valuable) piece. Not trying to get your hopes up, but I'd get it to a reputable dealer for verification of what you have. The value difference between a WS2 and a WS3 alone is enough to seek independent verification. I'd contact Eric Jackson Revenue Stamps, as they specialize in revenue and back of the book type material, which this is. Very honest, and they'll be able to help you.
I've linked images of WS2 and WS3 below, so you can see the difference. If yours looks like the 2nd photo, I'd get it expertized before going forward.
This is an WS2, linked from Eric Jackson's site.
This is an WS3, also from Eric Jackson.
I really appreciate the info so far.
Depending on how visible the fold and paper clip impression are would determine any decrease in value. A greater premium is usually added on pairs or blocks when it has a guide line block, joint line or pnc from coils, from booklets, and other cases.
You may want to post the stamps on the Stamp BST forum here before going to eBay or Yahoo. It doesn't get much activity, but its a free post.
The only problem with eBay on this kind of material, as Doug mentions, it's so esoteric it may be missed by those who would be your market. I (and many other US collectors) don't usually get that deep into back of the book material, and those who do seem to work with a few more specialized dealers. That's why I had mentioned Eric Jackson Revenue Stamps above, as he is one of the few who does maintain a large stock of deep b-o-b material. eBay may not be a bad route to go, and if you find two collectors who're looking for it (and prepared to pay) you will get whatever the 'full' market value is.