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$5 War Savings Stamp Series 1918 (WS3)

Can anyone tell me if this series of 1918 issue (payable 1923) was issued gummed or ungummed? I know later issues were gummed (i.e. series 1920) but unsure of WS3.

OK, I am not a stamp collector, I am a paper money buyer and seller. I'm not sure if it is WS2 or WS3, all I know is that the item I am looking at is a green $5 United States WAR SAVINGS Certificate Stamp, Series of 1918, payable in 1923, and there doesn't appear to be glue on the reverse, or any traces of what may have been a gummed back. It is actually an unseparated vertical pair. I am trying to determine a value or some measure of worth. Your thoughts, please.
"Specializing in Small Size US currency but likely to buy anything high grade or interesting".

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    DJCDJC Posts: 787
    From Scott 2005 Specialized:

    Unused values of War Savings stamps are for copies with full original gum. Used values are for stamps without gum that generally have been removed from savings certificates or booklets. Caution: beware of unused stamps that have been regummed to appear unused.

    Other than that, no other specific note is made on WS3. MNH value is $2250 (italicized), Mint is $1200, and used is $650. Value of WS2 is $125 in MNH, $80 in Mint, and $25 used.

    WS2 was issued with perf 11, WS3 is rouletted 7 (roulettes are more like horizontal 'cuts', perfs being the traditional holes of postage stamps.)

    If your pair has no visible means of seperation between the 2 stamps, it is (very remotely) possible that you have an imperf pair, which is basically an error. Scott lists a dashed pricing for one, indicating that they exist, but pricing is very unsettled. That may indicate a very rare (and possibly valuable) piece. Not trying to get your hopes up, but I'd get it to a reputable dealer for verification of what you have. The value difference between a WS2 and a WS3 alone is enough to seek independent verification. I'd contact Eric Jackson Revenue Stamps, as they specialize in revenue and back of the book type material, which this is. Very honest, and they'll be able to help you.

    I've linked images of WS2 and WS3 below, so you can see the difference. If yours looks like the 2nd photo, I'd get it expertized before going forward.

    image This is an WS2, linked from Eric Jackson's site.

    image This is an WS3, also from Eric Jackson.


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    goodpapergoodpaper Posts: 66 ✭✭✭
    My item appears to be a perforated vertical pair of the top (WS2?) note; perfs are rounded and I count 13 to 14 perfs in the inch. The pair has probably been folded between notes but is not separated. The perfs are on all sides; no straight edges. There appears to be no trace of glue. Any further comment on this item?

    I really appreciate the info so far.
    "Specializing in Small Size US currency but likely to buy anything high grade or interesting".
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    dougwtxdougwtx Posts: 566 ✭✭
    Since yours is perfed, it sounds like you have the WS2. In order to tell if it is a perf 11, you will need a perf gauge or count the number of perf "teeth" within 2 centimeters; you should be close to 11. As to value or worth, it depends if you are selling or just keeping for your collection. The value is around $25 since it has no gum, but a dealer would probably offer around $8-9/each if no other flaws are present. For example, if it is reperfed, missing perfs, thins, removed cancel, etc... the value could be around a couple of bucks. Don't won't to burst your bubble, but preparing you in case you decide to sell to a dealer. Also, these are considered deep back of book material and some dealers may not offer too much as this is a specialty, but, there are many collectors who collect these items and pay handsome prices to obtain them.
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    goodpapergoodpaper Posts: 66 ✭✭✭
    Great info - - no bubble to burst. Definitely 11 perfs per 2 cm. The perfs are 95% full and nice. Bottom stamp of the pair is the nicest with no significant signs of circulation, the top stamp has a broad corner fold and a paper clip impression (no rust - it was a stainless steel clip!). Color is bright - no pinholes. Is there a premium for the unattached pair? I still don't understand how all signs of the gummed back is completely gone - no trace. Doesn't some usually remain? If I were to sell, would ebay provide a fair market price?
    "Specializing in Small Size US currency but likely to buy anything high grade or interesting".
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    dougwtxdougwtx Posts: 566 ✭✭
    No gum on early stamps is fairly common. Its even more common with European collectors as they used to remove the gum themselves since many gums could hurt the stamp after remaining on. Also when a unused stamp is without gum, you need to be cautious as sometimes that means someone removed a cancel. Usually a UV light can spot a removed cancel. Another reason for the missing gum is that many of these back of book items were stuck in a booklet, on a deck of cards, newspapers, etc... and if not used or got canceled, they were just removed back off of the item.

    Depending on how visible the fold and paper clip impression are would determine any decrease in value. A greater premium is usually added on pairs or blocks when it has a guide line block, joint line or pnc from coils, from booklets, and other cases.

    You may want to post the stamps on the Stamp BST forum here before going to eBay or Yahoo. It doesn't get much activity, but its a free post.
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    DJCDJC Posts: 787
    No gum is pretty common, especially on used, lightly canceled stamps being passed off as unused. If you look at some of the amazing spreads between mint (even no gum) and used on early US, it's easy to see why. If you don't have access to a UV light, you can get a reasonable one at Subway Stamp Shop.

    The only problem with eBay on this kind of material, as Doug mentions, it's so esoteric it may be missed by those who would be your market. I (and many other US collectors) don't usually get that deep into back of the book material, and those who do seem to work with a few more specialized dealers. That's why I had mentioned Eric Jackson Revenue Stamps above, as he is one of the few who does maintain a large stock of deep b-o-b material. eBay may not be a bad route to go, and if you find two collectors who're looking for it (and prepared to pay) you will get whatever the 'full' market value is.
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