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Question for those who have been around the ebay block

After several months on this board, there are at least two things to come out of it.

1) I know a lot more about cards, PSA, the hobby in general, etc.

2) I'm paranoid as hell about eBay and sellers.

At what point do you veterans think a seller is trustworthy? Do you only buy from people you know with a huge amount of feedback?

I've come across a card I've been interested in for some time. The seller has about 110 positives, 0 negatives. Accepts paypal. PSA certification number checks out. Problem for me now is when I check the old feedback, he's sold a lot of DVD'S, music stuff, train sets, clocks etc. No cards though. Now a PSA 8 rookie of a hall of famer.

Now for me, any amount of money is a lot, but this card will reach the $150-$175 range.

Any reason to worry? Or has the paranoia just taken over?

shawn

Comments

  • lawnmowermanlawnmowerman Posts: 19,477 ✭✭✭✭
    How will you fund the transaction?

    Matt
  • AxtellAxtell Posts: 10,037 ✭✭
    While it's good to be wary, it's another to worry.

    I'd suspect that if he were trying to dummy up an account to scam money, he'd do it for a lot more money.

    If you paypal you have a fallback if the deal goes bad.
  • earlycalguyearlycalguy Posts: 1,247 ✭✭
    Just make sure the bidder's I.D's are not kept private. If you are unsure about the seller ask to get a picture of the card in front of today's newspaper. doesn't sound like a very rare card so you could probably find it from another seller you feel more comfortable with.

    from what you said about the seller he seems okay to me.
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,407 ✭✭✭✭✭
    BRM
    I would bid on it if everything looks pretty good. On the communication - you could always ask for a scan of the back of the card - that would not be possible, usually, if it were a stolen scan. You might want to ask him if he is a collector or is getting into cards - you could look enthused by asking if he is going to offer any more great cards like this one?

    Just some ideas and good luck
    mike
    Mike
  • BigRedMachineBigRedMachine Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭
    Just the ideas I needed, thanks guys!

    I would pay with paypal funded with either a credit card or a checking account. It doesn't make a difference to me. Does the credit card funded payment protect me better I assume?

    I used to just buy and buy and never ask many questions or look too closely at feedback. And after several years on ebay, I'm fortunate enough to say I've never really been screwed. But after reading some of these threads about how some of you fellow board members get raked over the coals...........well let's just say I do worry a lot more now and wonder when my time will come.

    Thanks again for the tips. Shawn.
  • lawnmowermanlawnmowerman Posts: 19,477 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Just the ideas I needed, thanks guys!

    I would pay with paypal funded with either a credit card or a checking account. It doesn't make a difference to me. Does the credit card funded payment protect me better I assume? >>

    Yup, Thats what I was getting at. All my purchases are via credit card. 100% covered. It happened to me a few times, where I paid and did not receive the card. I just called my credit card and they put it in dispute. I never was charged a dime. I would recommend that all purchases on ebay are done with a cc because of this reason. Just dont get carried away.

    Matt
  • If it's a graded card~ then I think you have less to worry about...
    buying raw is typically a crap shoot unless you know the person you are buying from...

    a friend recently bought a raw 1971 topps frazier and got a psa 9!~
    and I have bought raw 1971 topps trios for $1 each and gotten 8's and 7's... which is quite good.
    but... 9/10 times I find buying raw cards to be a bit disappointing... in terms of condition...

    As for funding... I also suggest paypal... at least you can cover yourself that way.

    -G


  • << <i> While it's good to be wary, it's another to worry. >>



    Axtell summed it up succinctly.

    Scams have been around way longer than any of us, but it seems like eBay is progressively getting worse. I remember back in 2001, on my school lunch breaks, I’d check eBay for ’52 Topps Mantles, seldom was a fake one listed. And the majority were un-graded raw – legit raw! Now it seems like 99% are fakes, and eBay doesn’t give a flying F about it or any of you.

    It’s been said, but I’ll say it again, if someone is selling raw AND graded, be careful – often there’s a good reason why the raw card hasn’t already been slabbed!

    I would recommend paying with a credit card via paypal for as many things as possible. As far as feedback is concerned, use discretion as we all started with zero. When I first started, I bought from people with 0 feedback, and people bought from me when my feedback was less than 10 – items in the thousands of dollars – but that was years ago, and I believe eBay is not as safe anymore.

    And lastly, if you are in doubt, do a little snooping BEFORE you enter the binding contract of bidding!

    Brian


  • the best bargains come from low feedback sellers. having said that the risk is there. However only use paypal and ONLY use a credit card NOT a debit card. Another thing, ALWAYS buy insurance, even if its only $50 to assure tracking from the post office. EVERYTHING I sell gets insurance, and everything over $50 I pay for insurance from the seller.

    I sleep well at night and haven't been screwed in 6 years now.

    GG


  • julen23julen23 Posts: 4,558 ✭✭
    i agree w/ ydsotter completely regarding buying raw on ebay.

    most seller's selling raw cards probably realize the value is greater outside of a psa holder. my luck w/ buying raw cards from e-bay (or anything online) has been their nm/mt card gets me no higher than psa 7. i am willing to bet the seller's would have already sent in a nm/mt card for grading, but realize the card can't make a psa 8 or higher cut so they sell it raw. i speak 100% from buying 1969 Topps on e-bay and from online dealers.

    buying raw is somewhat comparable to opening wax packs, you simply hope for the best.

    caveat emptor regardless.

    Julen
    ______
    Collecting:
    1980 Topps: Over 4,000 cards from vending and wax boxes awaiting a giant bonfire
    1969 Topps Master: # 1 1
    1987 Kraft Dinners Home Plate Heroes
    image
    RIP GURU
  • stevekstevek Posts: 29,035 ✭✭✭✭✭
    <<< Any reason to worry? Or has the paranoia just taken over? >>>

    Shawn - I don't see this as paranoia whatsoever, I see your "worry" as just being smart. There are so many thousands, if not tens of thousands of different situations on ebay, any particular one could signal a scam. You've already been given some good guidance in this thread. But if you want the most "perfect" guidance possible from the members here, you're going to have to post a link to the ebay auction. Of course you might be thinking that some SOB's here (myself included - LOL) might like that auction and outbid you, but if wanting to greatly increase your odds of avoiding a scam, you'll have to take that risk. Chances are anyone here who is really interested in that auction you're looking at, will eventually probably see it anyway on ebay. It's up to you. Good luck.

    Steve
  • BigRedMachineBigRedMachine Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭
    Trying to steal one at $130 and my bid fell short.

    BRM's attempt to steal a card cheap

    I'm sure this seller is legit, but you guys have me scared to bid on another unless the seller has 5000 positives with 99.98 percent feedback. I was more scared by the fact that he hadn't sold any graded in the past. His other auctions now have a few more graded cards all with pictures taken on the same carpet.

    Either way, you have me checking out all angles and being sure what I'm buying is legit and that I'm covered, and I thank all of you for that. Hopefully I can keep my streak of not being "screwed" alive and well.
    Shawn
  • BigRedMachineBigRedMachine Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭
    Just wanted to point out also, that the price this card ended out is extremely low compared to others I have tracked.

    Problem is, I had a buddy "steal" one that had a starting bid of $125 and the auction ended on a Tuesday morning. He put in a bid and won it at.....$125.

    Pi$$es me off. This one routinely ends at the $150-$175 range, but my friend has ruined it for me. I will not have a good night's sleep again until I get one of these close to $125. image

    Thanks again for all of your help.

    Shawn
  • Actually I take comfort in seeing poorly taken photos of PSA graded cards - you can still read the cert # and see the centering. My rationale is that if they don't have the card, they will steal scans - often high quality ones from the big auction houses. I've bought PSA cards without scans, but I would ask the seller for the approx. centering, and any obvious flaws. And on any high dollar cards, I nicely ask for a scan of the back if it's not in their auction. I learned that the hard way by getting cards with 90/10 on the back (which is within the standards of MINT 9!!!)

    Brian
  • stevekstevek Posts: 29,035 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No red flags there in my opinion. The way you bid on it, you must have came to this same conclusion. Better luck next time winning.
  • stevekstevek Posts: 29,035 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PS: I'm not an expert on 70's football cards pricing so I'll take your word for it on the values. It "only" went for $138 because it is a low end PSA 8 because of the centering. Most probably a well centered PSA 8 would have sold in that $150 - $175 range you mentioned.

    Steve
  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,631 ✭✭✭✭
    Another point to be made based on my experience:

    If the seller doesn't have alot of feedback but is found on these message boards, you probably can trust them 100%.

    Mike

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
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