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Buying Raw vs. Graded?


I am about to sell a lot of raw vintage on Ebay and was wondering how high of a scan you think is appropriate.

I think since noone would trust mho, a large scan would do a lot better than me claiming a card is mt, nm-mt and so forth. My only question is what do you think I should describe a card as in the title(people's idea of mt, nm-mt... vary greatly and the scan will tell the truth), and how big of a scan should I post?

Thanks for any advice you could give.



#1

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#2

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#3

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Thank you for looking and any advice you could give me would be awesome!
EAMUS CATULI!

My Auctions

Comments

  • KnucklesKnuckles Posts: 2,512 ✭✭✭
    #2 is good enough for these eye's.
    image
  • ctsoxfanctsoxfan Posts: 6,246 ✭✭
    I agree - scan #2 seems good enough for me.
    image
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,409 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree - 2nd pic

    Zef
    Just curious - what grade are you going to assign the card in the description?

    mike
    Mike
  • OnlypsahockeyOnlypsahockey Posts: 1,479 ✭✭
    I agree scan 2 with your honest opinion of the grade should work out well for you.

    May your cards sell high.

    Bob
    57 Topps (83%) 7.61
    61 Topps (100%) 7.96
    62 Parkhurst (100%) 8.70
    63 Topps (100%) 7.96
    63 York WB's (50%) 8.52
    68 Topps (39%) 8.54
    69 Topps (3%) 9.00
    69 OPC (83%) 8.21
    71 Topps (100%) 9.21 #1 A.T.F.
    72 Topps (100%) 9.39
    73 Topps (13%) 9.35
    74 OPC WHA (95%) 8.57
    75 Topps (50%) 9.23
    77 OPC WHA (86%) 8.62 #1 A.T.F.
    88 Topps (5%) 10.00
  • ajwajw Posts: 2,281 ✭✭✭
    Not to be difficult...but why not include the largest scan? The damage to the top right is visible in the second scan, but is certainly much clearer in the third scan.
  • BarfvaderBarfvader Posts: 2,859 ✭✭✭✭
    I'll be the odd one out and say go with as big a scan as you can.

    Using your example the 200 dpi scan shows things that the 150 dpi does not.

    image

    Now I realize that the wear on the bottom is really small but knowing they way people are it would be just enough to get PITA's something to Neg you over saying that it wasn't in the scan but arrived damaged.

    I think that for commons the 150 dpi scan with descriptions of anything that doesn't clearly show up in the scan will do but for any high dollar cards go with as big of a scan as possible.


    Just My Opinion

  • baseballfanaticbaseballfanatic Posts: 2,415 ✭✭
    Number 3 would do it for me. Number two shows the scanner dots. As long as your pic isnt too big (where you have to scroll up and down or left and right or can only see the players eye on the monitor), bigger is always better. A good description helps, but too many sellers sell vg-ex as near mint, so just give the biggest pic you can with a "I will answer any and all questions", and the pic should answer all the questions on its own..............
  • MorrellManMorrellMan Posts: 3,241 ✭✭✭
    If you are talking about this particular card, with that upper right corner I wouldn't call it Nr/mt at all. I'd call it ex/mt at best.

    I think I'm in the minority here, but I believe in trying to describe a card as correctly (per PSA standards) and succinctly as possible, include a good scan, and offer satisfaction guaranteed.
    Mark (amerbbcards)


    "All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,631 ✭✭✭✭
    I agree toitally with Mark. I have now seen enough PSA graded cards to be able to fairly accurately predict the grade a card would receive. I try to grade my raw cards as I believe PSA would.

    Mike

    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
  • Include a large scan and state the card is one notch below what you really think it is. state you are not a professional grader and to please see scans and ask any questions prior to auction end.

    The card in your example would be VG-EX to EX. Personally I think it is EX "5".

    GG
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
    Scan 2, or even scan 1. Scan 3 could be real slow for someone on 56k.

    Also, with that nasty upper right corner I think an 'ex+' grade would be about right. Trust me when I say you don't want to be selling overgraded raw cards on Ebay-- it becomes far more of a headache then it's worth.

  • zef204zef204 Posts: 4,742 ✭✭

    Thanks for all the opinions.

    Stone - I would call this particular card ex/mt.

    I also think that I am going to use the 3rd scan and state that condition opions vary so please use the scan to form your own opinion of the condition.

    I will have to throw my opinion in the title because I think that without a condition in the title the auction would get far less hits.
    EAMUS CATULI!

    My Auctions
  • you can always put vg ex ex-mt in the title to get more hits...

    GG
  • halosfanhalosfan Posts: 2,634 ✭✭✭✭
    After receiving my lastest raw purchase ... my advice is DON'T BUY RAW unless you have a trusted relationship with the seller or can judge the cards in person!!!!! I think this group was fresh out of the barber chair.
    Looking for a Glen Rice Inkredible and Alex Rodriguez cards
  • phreakydancinphreakydancin Posts: 1,691 ✭✭
    Use the Crop tool on your image editor to get rid of that huge brown background. It adds nothing to the picture and uses up valuable bandwidth that could otherwise be used to show a larger pic of your card.
  • Scan 2
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