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Poll: Do you pay the value or pay for the grade?

I was curious because I am seeing a lot of listings and cards for sale that are advertised as "High end for the grade." In particular, I am working on a '67 Topps Baseball set and I saw an ad for a PSA 8 '67 Topps Mantle #150. The card usually sells on eBay between $450 - $525. I've seen them listed higher but I don't see them sell. I went to another website and they had one listed for $650.00. Now, maybe it's me but I can't bring myself to pay $200 more than the card usually sells for. Your Thoughts?

Scott
Registry Sets:
T-205 Gold PSA 4 & up
1967 Topps BB PSA 8 & up
1975 Topps BB PSA 9 & up
1959 Topps FB PSA 8 & up
1976 Topps FB PSA 9 & up
1981 Topps FB PSA 10
1976-77 Topps BK PSA 9 & up
1988-89 Fleer BK PSA 10
3,000 Hit Club RC PSA 5 & Up

My Sets

Comments

  • larryallen73larryallen73 Posts: 6,061 ✭✭✭
    I think it's hard to tell what a high grade card is without seeing the card in person. The card may have perfect centering, perfect corners, etc... but maybe the surface isn't great? Tough to see in a scan. I would have a hard time paying over book unless you see the card in person. Plus, if you ever want to sell it I think it would be harder to recoup your purchase price. Good luck.
  • BigRedMachineBigRedMachine Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭
    I usually wait until I can "steal" a card that slips through the cracks.

    For three reasons:
    1) I'm a tight a$$ and like patting myself on the back for a good deal, and when you're short on hobby money, getting a "steal" is sometimes the only way to afford the card.
    2) I really feel from an investment standpoint that I'm ahead of the game. Or at least that's what I tell my wife.
    3) It gives me an excuse to browse eBay for endless amounts of time looking at cards, which for some reason I enjoy. Like a river or a campfire, some things I can stare out for hours.

    Some examples I've paid:

    1968 bench psa 7 $103
    1975 brett psa 8 $90
    1965 carlton psa 7 $83
    1973 schmidt psa 7 $96
    1982 traded ripken psa 8 $52

    These aren't deals of the century but they are all on the top 200 card list and I got them all under what they generally sell for. I feel I could make a profit on any or all of them if I needed. But like I said, now I have an excuse to browse eBay to try to steal a 1960 Yaz or a 1971 bradshaw or whatever card I buy next.
  • KnucklesKnuckles Posts: 2,512 ✭✭✭
    I have the exact same three reasons as BigRedMachine from being a tight a$$ down too the wife and having an excuse to stare at eBay for hours.
    image
  • StingrayStingray Posts: 8,843 ✭✭✭
    I also like getting a "good deal". If a card is a low pop. I still can not see paying an extra $100+ for it. I also collect 67s and wasn't there a PSA 8 or 9 of one of the really low pop. that went for some ridiculus amount about 8 months ago or so.

    Stingray
  • I also see this alot with the advertisers in the SMR. Their prices are almost always above what the cards usually sell for on eBay. Sometimes it doesn't bother me but sometimes it is a pain in the a$$ if I really need the card.

    Scott
    Registry Sets:
    T-205 Gold PSA 4 & up
    1967 Topps BB PSA 8 & up
    1975 Topps BB PSA 9 & up
    1959 Topps FB PSA 8 & up
    1976 Topps FB PSA 9 & up
    1981 Topps FB PSA 10
    1976-77 Topps BK PSA 9 & up
    1988-89 Fleer BK PSA 10
    3,000 Hit Club RC PSA 5 & Up

    My Sets
  • BigRedMachineBigRedMachine Posts: 2,563 ✭✭✭
    Let me also point out that in my opinion this "good deal" mentality is prevalent in most of us card buyers which is why I'm puzzled by the usual bashing of the Beckett price guide. It seems many think the prices are too high. But if Beckett lists a card at, say, $60-$100, most of us try to get the card under $60, that's when i feel i've gotten a deal. If Beckett adjusted their prices to $40-$60 though, most of us would be trying to get the card under $40 the next month. I think that if the prices are too high, that's a good thing for the value of are cards. Is there another reason? Something I'm missing? Just curious.
  • envoy98envoy98 Posts: 4,000 ✭✭
    BRM-It's interesting you bring up the Beckett... In my spotted quest to complete my first set in the registry (all time rushers) I look at SMR for every card I'm purchasing. I always take a look and see what the card is selling for in the grade I want and usually one grade up or down. Then I check SMR... I tend to bid at or near SMR unless the card seems to sell over SMR, then I wait til the last minute to bid, otherwise I usually bid up to SMR and see what happens. I'm not trying to make a quick turnaround on these cards so I don't mind paying SMR for them. In my gambling/speculating I do with modern, I always use Beckett, and I always try to buy at 40% or less. Beckett is so far off on pricing (I know, no real news to any of you)..it's a guide, and a loosely translated one at that.

    Thank god Beckett doesn't make maps!

    I feel if I get a card for less than it normally sells for, I got a steal...sure you feel good about picking up that Ryan Leaf auto for $3 and Beckett still has it booking at $100 but if you could have bought it for 99 cents was it a steal? lol

    It's interesting how differently people, myself included, treat the two price guides. In many cases, if you're selling, use Beckett, if you're buying use SMR. image

    I remember in October last year someone sold a 53 or 55 Bowman low pop common, I believe it was an 8. SMR was something like $150 and it garnered $6800 at auction. I met the guy who sold it at Tri Star in KC last October...I would imagine he's a member of these boards, but I forget his name.

    Always go by the "buy the card, not the holder" credo, and I think you'll be good. I personally would rather have a card well centered with a soft corner than one at the limits of centering for the grade and great corners. Others feel differently... I know that when I look to upgrade my All-Time Rushers set I will look to move up a grade on most of them, on some I won't be able to so it will be an eye appeal upgrade and I would be willing to pay over SMR on some of them if I liked it enough. If you just gotta have it, you'll pay for it I suppose.

  • A761506A761506 Posts: 1,309 ✭✭✭
    I have no hesitation to paying way over list prices on certain issues, especially for high end examples. I don't think list prices accurately reflect certain cards, especially cards that are bordering on a grade higher. Additionally, there are certain cards that are difficult to find in high end condition, as the majority of examples of that particular card may be way off center or have print marks or some other consistent flaw, and I would definitely pay more for them.
  • baseballfanaticbaseballfanatic Posts: 2,415 ✭✭
    BRM's top three and A7 both hit the nail on the head. Certain cards are so ridiculously underpriced that some people would gladly pay double or triple for certain cards. I'll take all the Home Run Derby commons that book for 30.00 in Beckett online anyday of the week.................
  • julen23julen23 Posts: 4,558 ✭✭
    With 1969 Topps it all depends.

    1-HOF Cards (ie, Yaz, Brock, Seaver): I have had no problem paying a premium.
    2-Common: Easy to find for less than SMR

    Julen
    image
    RIP GURU
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