to reserve or not to reserve?
Sets
Posts: 184
that is the question. I have decided enough nickel and dime stuff for now, so I am going to start to list some better items on ebay auctions. The question of the day is, do reserves discourage bidding, if so, why? I am not nor have I ever shill bid or had a friend shill bid, a friends friend, and so on. Which means I can't afford to let an expensive item go for .99 or a consigor's item go for .99, or 25% of smr etc, which happens on ebay all the time? I prefer to start auctions low to encourage bidding, rather than have a high starting bid. What is the best approach? Any opinions appreciated. I know one school of thought is let the market set the price but if is not my item is that fair to the consigor?
My ebay store IS CLOSED TEMPORARILY
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Comments
If the card is worth the SMR price then they will pay it and more depending on the player, Grade and eyeappeal .. Some 6's 7's and 8's are centered better then others and you will get more.. 6 years on ebay and I'll still see the same card same year same grade on the same page and one will sell for a lot more then the other.. So far Ebay is like my wife I just can't figure her out
Need 1973 Baseball PSA 9's
I have an ebay feedback of 500 pos, 0 negs, so I've done a little buying/selling, but others on this forum with more experience may know something I don't.
IMHO reserve auctions turn bidders off. If you have no competitive
bids then a bidder who really wants what you're selling cannot bid
against themselves to raise the auction level enough to make the
reserve.
A possible solution to this is to prominently display what your
reserve is so there is no question as to how far the bidding needs
to go to reach the reserve level.
The solution that works best for me is to start your auction about
50-60% of what you require for the selling item. If there is any
demand for your card, the market will take care of it, you should
realize at least a decent return on your card and you don't have to
relist until the cows come home to sell.
Sounds like I really have a clue, don't let that stop you and good
luck!!
COLLECTING (other than belly button lint):
-Evgeni Malkin (when Pittsburgh pays the bribe money, er, ruble)
-Heath Miller (the new TE bullseye for Big Ben)
-Sport Kings in off-grade PSA (for you vintage freaks)
$10 items?? $25.00 items??
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
Cataloging all those pesky, unlisted 1963 Topps football color variations Updated 2/13/05
I see those blue parenthesis and move on.
Then I curse the seller (in my mind) and hope
that he/she is stuck with the item. 75% of the time, my
mental curse works because I see the same item by the
same seller again the following week with no reserve and
then I'll set up my snipe.
Why not skip the reserve and set your minimum bid at the lowest you'll accept for the card?
<< <i>Why run a reserve and then list what the reserve is?
Why not skip the reserve and set your minimum bid at the lowest you'll accept for the card? >>
Agreed 100% (no reserve) - a reserve auction is, IMHO, deceitful. I used to bid on reserve auctions and was always disappointed that the reserve wasn't met, so my high bid got nothing. I now never bid on reserve auctions. It's a sale offer disguised as an auction.
Set your opening bid at something reasonable - but know your market. If there aren't a lot of players for what you are offering, you'll lose money by starting too low. If the card has a flock of interest from lots of different bidders, it will invariable seek it's own level.
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
<< <i>
<< <i>
Set your opening bid at something reasonable - but know your market. If there aren't a lot of players for what you are offering, you'll lose money by starting too low. If the card has a flock of interest from lots of different bidders, it will invariable seek it's own level. >>
DITTO....especially know your market (values). Graded vintage material will usually reach it potential especially PSA 9's Graded modern material is a turkey shoot. (hence i will not deal with it)
Good Luck !!!
1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better
Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete
auctions ended, some met reserve, some didn't. I need more opinions though is a higher opening bid better?