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Thanks To All; Advice Needed

I'm so lucky to have found this board, as you are all experienced individuals who are so willing to share your expertise and knowledge. Thanks! If I've learned one thing from all of your informative and entertaining posts, it's buy quality stuff.

Now that I've softened you up-- my questions: I purchased 5 proof sets recently on ebay, and, as far as I can tell, it looks like there may be a few coins here that I may want to send in to have graded, but I might need some more of your expert advice.

1. What is the difference between the Type I and Type II 1981 Proof Sets, and which one did I purchase (if it's possible to tell from the pic)?

2. Please take a look at these photos and let me know (if possible) if you think I've got anything that might be worth being sent off to be graded. Please note, these are photos of the exact proof sets I purchased-- not stock photos. I can tell because the 1983 Roosie is looking up @ 45 degrees on the set I received. Please also note, many of these coins have un-interrupted frost on the devices, with virtually no toning in the fields.

Thanks!!!!

Comments

  • Dang!!! Pics didn't upload! Grrrrrrrr.


    There we go!
  • CameonutCameonut Posts: 7,293 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hedghog
    Let me try to help.
    On the 81 set - you can't tell from the picture. You have to look at the S mint mark with at least a 5x loupe. The type one has a clear S, the type two also has a clear S but with "knobs" on the tips of the S. Easy if you are comparing side to side - more difficult if you only have one to look at.

    From the pictures it looks like you have some nice sets. The trouble is, these years all yield high quality dcams. In my experience, the cents thru quarters all go for $10-15 each in PCGS69 dcam. With grading fees in the same range (for us commoners) there is little incentive to holder these coins. To make 69dcam they must be problems free coins - if you are not familiar with the difference between 68 and 69dcam, I would definately save your money. On the Kennedy's, they will get around $25 for a 69dcam, but why break up a nice set for a potential $10 profit. I bought most of my proofs from 78-present - all at low prices.

    The reason you can do this is that there are dealers trying to make the elusive 70dcams. They submit hundreds of coins to try to make a few 70dcams which will sell for hundreds of dollars. Then they sell the 69dcams at cost to recoup the money. I have been doing cameos for over 15 years now, and I still have some difficulty picking out the 70dcams. If you are just starting, making a 70dcam out of the sets you have would be very lucky - but still possible.

    Anyway, I hope my comments are of help. If I were you, I would keep the sets intact and keep the grading fees in your pocket.
    Cameonut

    “In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson

    My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!

  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • CameonutCameonut Posts: 7,293 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Kranky
    Great link - been looking for something like that.

    “In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson

    My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!

  • Cool!! Learned something new here!! image

    If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!! image

    My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
    -----
    Proud Owner of
    2 –DAMMIT BOY!!! ® Awards
  • Thank you cameonut for your great explanation! I really appreciate the information and advice. Thank you kranky for the awesome link. I will certainly examine my set and try to tell which one it is.

    The people on this board rock!

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