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For those of you still not sniping...

THIS is yet more proof that bidding early and high is a fool's game... unless you like paying 4X SMR for a high-pop rookie.

Comments

  • jersterjerster Posts: 828 ✭✭✭
    Yikes!
  • divecchiadivecchia Posts: 6,632 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>THIS is yet more proof that bidding early and high is a fool's game... unless you like paying 4X SMR for a high-pop rookie. >>



    I agree 100%. I will never bid early on an auction unless I can't get to computer when the auction is ending. Even then I wait as long as I can. I never bid with more than 12 hours left.
    Hobbyist & Collector (not an investor).
    Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set

    Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
  • I couldn't agree more. Back a couple of years ago when I was working 3rd shift, there were auctions that ended several hours after I had to leave for work, so I would bid the highest I was willing to go for an item. It seemed that I was either just missing out or paying near my maximum every time. Unless it's something I just absolutely have to have, I will not bid unless I'm at my computer at the end of the auction. It took me awhile to learn but never again.

    I can't count the number of times someone bid $ 99.99 against my $ 100.01 and forced me to pay my maximum.

    Thanks for sharing,
    Peter
    Currently collecting

    Vintage golf, 1981-82 Donruss golf, and a few other odds and ends.

    image
  • And his top bid was $99.99, I don't think he even wanted to win the auction.
  • JonB, I agree 100%. I believe that's happened to me on several auctions from bidders who were upset that I had won other auctions for cards from the set and that was their way at getting back at me. I hope it doesn't happen too much but it happens enough that won't bid until the last minute again.

    Peter
    Currently collecting

    Vintage golf, 1981-82 Donruss golf, and a few other odds and ends.

    image
  • lostdart58lostdart58 Posts: 2,938 ✭✭✭
    When the starting price is already near the maximun I want to pay then I have to bid early..........if I get outbid.....heck I didn't want to pay more for the item anyway.

    Collector of:Baseball
    1955 Bowman Raw complete with 90% Ex-NR or better

    Now seeking 1949 Eureka Sportstamps...NM condition
    Working on '78 Autographed set now 99.9% complete -
    Working on '89 Topps autoed set now complete




  • << <i>When the starting price is already near the maximun I want to pay then I have to bid early..........if I get outbid.....heck I didn't want to pay more for the item anyway. >>



    I feel the same way. I think there's something to getting the first bid in. But after that I'm all for sniping.
  • I put my absolute max in once. If I win, I win. Not worth it to me to follow that many auctions up to the last minute!!
    Running an Ebay store sure takes a lot more time than a person would think!
  • 19541954 Posts: 2,898 ✭✭✭
    Is a PSA 9 rookie from Hockey not worth $100? I see that the underbidder was just running him up in increments of $2-4, but I am with Kingraider on this. Maybe he could not be there when it ended and he was unlucky to go against a guy running him up.

    1954
    Looking for high grade rookie cards and unopened boxes/cases
  • BugOnTheRugBugOnTheRug Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Not worth it to me to follow that many auctions up to the last minute!! >>


    This is exactly why you should snipe! In place of bidding your full amount and then 'not worrying about it', do the same thing via a snipe service. The net effort is the same, but with a snipe loaded instead of having the viewable aucion 'loaded', you'll come out why ahead over time.

    In short, put your $100 bid in Justsnipe instead of the auction - then just forget about it.

    BOTR
  • This is the only time I don't snipe... If a card has a minimum bid of say... $10, and a buy it now of $100, and there is no reserve, then I'll bid $10. Most of the time cards like that will end up going for about $50 or so. By bidding $10, I make the BIN option go away to ensure that no moron comes along and drops $100 on it. And I can set a snipe for what I really want to pay... say $50
  • rvcrvc Posts: 559 ✭✭
    i wonder if the buyer is happy anyway with his purchase. i think its 1979collector on these boards.

    btw what snipe service do you guys like using? do they guarantee to get your bid in on time?
    Bob
  • I must admit that I have not used a snipping service. So what company do you use? how does it work, I also know nutting.
    Running an Ebay store sure takes a lot more time than a person would think!
  • BugOnTheRugBugOnTheRug Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭
    JustSnipe - $5 per month - unlimited snipes (I think). Easy to sign up and pay each month. Simple to use. Go for it! You'll make that $5 per month back easily - especially if your doing a lot of buying.



    << <i>do they guarantee to get your bid in on time? >>


    Nothing in life is guarantee (except death/taxes) but if you really want something bad, just double-list the snipe - meaning, set 2 exact snipes for the same item. I use this when I really must have the item!

    As far as www.justsnipe.com, I won't leave home without it.

    BOTR
  • jimtbjimtb Posts: 704 ✭✭
    I use esnipe and have only had one problem with it not placing the bid. I would bet that I have saved hundreds of dollars sniping, as phreaky's post clearly shows how easily you can get bid up.
    Collecting all graded Alan Trammell graded cards as well as graded 1984 Topps, Donruss, and Fleer Detroit Tigers
    image
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