1980-1984 Topps baseball - worth grading?
GOCAVS
Posts: 27 ✭
Hi, is worthwhile with getting 1980 thru 1984 Topps baseball graded? I don't usually send in baseball but have some sets that have sat for many years untouched and was wondering if they are worth getting any cards graded from these years. any thoughts from anyone who is better aware of the market situation for these years??? thanks.....its warming up here on the North Coast I might have to retire the snowman!!
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ISO 1978 Topps Baseball in NM-MT High Grade Raw 3, 100, 103, 302, 347, 376, 416, 466, 481, 487, 509, 534, 540, 554, 579, 580, 622, 642, 673, 724__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ISO 1978 O-Pee-Chee in NM-MT High Grade Raw12, 21, 29, 38, 49, 65, 69, 73, 74, 81, 95, 100, 104, 110, 115, 122, 132, 133, 135, 140, 142, 151, 153, 155, 160, 161, 167, 168, 172, 179, 181, 196, 200, 204, 210, 224, 231, 240
If you get 9's, then for the huge stars (Ryan, Rose, etc.) or rookies you'll make a little money, for stars you'll break even, and for anything else you'll get a buck or two. Sometimes, even a 9 is worth quite a bit - I got close to $50 for a 1982 Topps Traded Ozzie Smith.
Less than 9 - good luck. Cards that are worth money as an 8 are generally worth about the same amount raw (e.g., Ripken and McGwire rookies), so there is no point submitting them to sell. Off hand, I can't think of any card in that timeframe that is worth more as an 8 than what it is worth raw plus the grading fee.
So, if your search through those 1980-1984 sets yields some realistic 10 candidates (and you can honestly grade your own cards), and some big stars that will be at least 9's, then go for it.
The interest is not extreme but does exist. In the five year era you mention, there are some great rookie cards, some true superstar cards, and of course some nice "specials" and error cards which continue to make collectors attentive. These cards are still a bit "affordable" when compared to many older sets. A base from people in their Mid-30s , when they became collectors as kids, would likely create some demand for these years as well.
The 1980 Topps baseball set is just a bit different in my view.
1980 was the last year collecting was very similar to the "old days" of vintage,
only one major set, only one rookie card of any player, no updated / traded sets, no competetion from Donruss or Fleer, and way before inserts and GU stuff. Price guides were just starting and a National sportcard convention too. 1981 and forward saw the hobby change forever.
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The 1980 Topps baseball set is just a bit different in my view.
1980 was the last year collecting was very similar to the "old days" of vintage,
only one major set, only one rookie card of any player, no updated / traded sets, no competetion from Donruss or Fleer, and way before inserts and GU stuff. Price guides were just starting and a National sportcard convention too. 1981 and forward saw the hobby change forever.
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I have been saying that the 78 Topps set I am collecting is in a "gray" area between vintage and modern...... you seem to agree in a way
ISO 1978 Topps Baseball in NM-MT High Grade Raw 3, 100, 103, 302, 347, 376, 416, 466, 481, 487, 509, 534, 540, 554, 579, 580, 622, 642, 673, 724__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ISO 1978 O-Pee-Chee in NM-MT High Grade Raw12, 21, 29, 38, 49, 65, 69, 73, 74, 81, 95, 100, 104, 110, 115, 122, 132, 133, 135, 140, 142, 151, 153, 155, 160, 161, 167, 168, 172, 179, 181, 196, 200, 204, 210, 224, 231, 240
<< <i>Hi, is worthwhile with getting 1980 thru 1984 Topps baseball graded? ; >>
Only as a way to store your cards. If not, especially for "investment" reasons (the impetus behind card grading), then a resounding no.
If I owned the cards, I'd probably pick out the stars and see if they are grade worthy. Take the first submission as a learning process. Take a handful, really go over them to see what kind of condition you think they are (use a loupe or magnifying glass) and submit. Just to get the hang of it. A small first submission gives you a chance to learn without breaking the bank.
Just my 2¢
<< <i>I usually collect football but was thinking of starting an early 80's set. I appreciate any opinions on which are considered more difficult or easier to find the cards in gradeable conditions. I've been going through my sets today and man was centering a problem during the years. >>
Snowman - I am in the process of collecting every football set in graded form (which should take me until my deathbed . 80's cards are deceptively tough - because of centering and printing marks. I've started the 1981 football set and only pulled 40 to 50 PSA 9/10 cards from over 10 rack packs. Of the 1975 to 1985 cards I have submitted, my average is approx. 2% 10's, 90% 9's and 8% 8's. Not too bad, but I had to sort through TONS of rack and vending boxes to find the ones to submit. All in all, approximately 10 to 20% of the cards in a vending/wax/cell/rack box are of PSA 9/10 quality.
Another good source is to check out Four Sharp Corners on E-Bay. If you wait long enough, you can pick up PSA 9 cards of the late 70's and early 80's for under $5 a card. I even picked up a PSA 10 1981 common. Good luck - and e-mail me at gregm13@yahoo.com if you ever want to talk football cards.
Greg M.
References:
Onlychild, Ahmanfan, fabfrank, wufdude, jradke, Reese, Jasp, thenavarro
E-Bay id: greg_n_meg