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Two questions from a newbie.

Hey everyone. This board has taken up a significant portion of my spare time lately! Thanks for the great posts. I have two questions:

1. Is it advised to break up my proof sets (1959-present) and send them off to be graded?

2. I have 3 proof sets and a few BU Morgan and Peace dollars that I know have been dipped (nothing rare, thank goodness). The proof sets were junk (already broken up) that I bought as a kid and had hairlines all over them, but a couple of the dollars were pretty nice. Are any of these coins worth keeping? Should I tell whoever I sell them to they've been dipped?

Thanks!

Comments

  • Collect what you like. image
  • Oh!! And welcome to the Forums!! image
    Glenn
  • image
    Remember it's not how you pick your nose that matters, it's where you put the boogers.
    imageimageimage
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,082 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome!
    A good dip job is sposed to be undetectable and even PCGS does not usually use "dipping" as a reason to bodybag a coin. No reason to tell unless they ask as I see it. It is quite a common practice in the coin biz and is accepted by many [but not all] collectors.
    theknowitalltroll;
  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    Welcome. breaking up proof sets is a gamble. You have to be sure they'll grade high enough to justify the expense.

    As for keeping coins, keep what you like. image
  • darktonedarktone Posts: 8,437 ✭✭✭
    #1- not advisable to break open the proof sets unless you can tell which ones are worth submitting otherwise the cost of slabbing would be too much.
    #2- If the silver dollars are worth over a $100 each I would consider slabbing but if they arecommon dates in the 63-64 range or lower the grading costs will not be worth it. The proof coins with hairlines are not worth grading unless they are rare dates or rare in CAM/DCAM.
    Welcome to the forums! image mike
  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
    Welcome, hedgehog847!

    I would say do not send your proof sets in to be graded at this time. When you have more grading experience and knowledge, and can recognize which of those coins (certainly not all of them) will be worth the cost of grading, you can reconsider.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • DorkGirlDorkGirl Posts: 9,994 ✭✭✭
    image
    Becky
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,781 ✭✭✭✭
    Welcome to the Forum!
    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • image from a fellow HOG. Proof sets from 59' up might be better off left as is unless there is a possibility of a D cam. I have the same issues with my '56 up proofs. What to do with 'em. As for the Morgans and Peace dollars, I might trade them in at a dealer and get something you like. I used to collect the Peace dollar series but I gave it up because it was so difficult to find nice un-tampered with examples. The Morgan series is too popular and finding good Morgans can be tough. By the way, Hedgehogs rule!
  • image Welcome to the boards. I too spend time often lurking on these boards. I tell myself that I will just take a quick look and see if there is any new pictures or answers that may interest me. After a couple of hours, with my eyeballs swapping holes and my wife pacing the floor waiting for her turn on the 'puter, I finally get busy with stuff that needs done. As for the Proof sets and dollars, these guys will give you a good heads up on what the best course of action is.
    DEPARTMENT OF REDUNDANCY DEPARTMENT
  • Thank you all so much for the warm welcome and all the valuable information! I think I'll heed the concensus' advice and not break up those proof sets until I have the knowledge to discern what might be worth grading.

    Does anyone have any literary suggestions which might help me gain some knowledge about grading uncirculated and proof coins? I'm presently reading "The Coin Collector's Survival Manual" by Scott Travers, and I'm learning a huge amount about this hobby/industry.

    Thanks again all!!! I love this board!!
  • P.s. Hedger....Hedgehogs do rule!!
  • mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    Welcome.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Does anyone have any literary suggestions which might help me gain some knowledge about grading uncirculated and proof coins? I'm presently reading "The Coin Collector's Survival Manual" by Scott Travers, and I'm learning a huge amount about this hobby/industry. >>



    You picked a good bood to read - it will really help you.

    With respect to grading unc and proof coins, I don't believe that you can do that from a book. Oh, you could get the general idea, but unc and proof coins are the hardest to grade because the differences between grades is ever so slight. And because of the very minute differences, you need to see coins in person. A static, 2-d photo in a book doesn't allow you to see luster and eye appeal like you could in person. And the problem with the written descriptions is that they don't work for unc and proof coins.

    For example, here's the ANA criteria for MS66:
      Must have above average quality of strike and full original mint luster, with no more than two or three minor but noticeable contact marks. A few very light hairlines may show under magnification, or there may be one or two light scuff marks showing on frosted surfaces or in the field. The eye appeal must be above average and very pleasing for the date and mint. Copper coins display full original or lightly toned color as designated.
    Look at how many subjective terms there are in that description: above average, two or three, minor but noticeable, few, very light, one or two, light, very pleasing. You can't learn the difference between two adjacent grades from descriptions.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    >Does anyone have any literary suggestions which might help me gain some knowledge about grading uncirculated and proof coins?

    Only seeing lots of examples that are graded. You can also find one of the ANA's seminars or mini-seminars on grading. that can help.
  • Again, you're all so right. I guess I'm just going to have to get out there and look at coins to learn this stuff. I've been comparing a couple of my NGC 64's against 63's, and my eye must not be trained to notice the subtleties yet because they look the same to me. Sometimes, a 63 looks better than a 64! I really like the seminar idea too. Does anyone know of anything coming to Las Vegas this year?
  • carlcarl Posts: 2,054
    Breaking up a proof set is pending on the purpose I would think. I break them up all the time. I have the blue coin folders with sliding plastic covers front and back. They have spaces for proofs so I break up proofs to fill the slots. I am a person that just can't have an empty slot in a coin folder. I break open the pcgs plastic containers for the scarce ones like 1922 no mint mark penny and put in the book. But that's me. Do what you feel is best for YOUR collection.
    Carl
  • Another dumb question: Will a third party grader automatically bodybag something if it's been dipped? How do they tell? Pitting? Do they examine what they grade under an electron microscope!! haha :-)

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