New people to the field of Numismatists -- Look here.
GoldCoinLover
Posts: 1,244
Well, after reading though lots of information about complaints in general (Not a big deal, its part of life), I've decided to make a thread just for people to ask questions on new information. I'm going to write here a short essay on coins and how to take care of them, basically a guide. I like to help people.
-------------[Chapter 1]---------------------
SubChap. A ..... Coins |
SubChap. B ..... Grading. |
SubChap. C ..... Caring For Your coins. |
SubChap. D ..... Key points in grading. |
-------------------------------------------------/
[Coins]
Coin is a vague term for money. Money powers our life in many ways. Did you look in your change today? Notice the marks on the reverse? Or how about that blazing luster on the obverse? Did you notice the strike on the words LIBERTY? Was the coin toned? Did it have a mintmark, if so, where from?
These are many of the questions Numismatists ask themselfs everyday when grading coins.
I guess I should go over what a grade means. A grade is simply the preservation of the coin. There are 4 or more factors that represent a coins grade, here are some of them:
1) Marks. (Rim dings, hairlines, etc.)
2) Luster (Commonly referred to as 'a cartwheel' that is; a type of luster on a coin. It can also be described as how 'shiny' a coin is.)
3) Strike. (sometimes incorpated with wear in lower grades. Strike is how well a coin is struck at the mint. Proof coins are struck several times to ensure good detail on the coin.)
4) Eye Appeal (All coins tone some. Usually its not attractive toning, such as brown or yellowish hues on a coin. But sometimes, it can be colorful and quite attractive.)
The above are the basic elements of a coins grade.
The Grading Scale:
Since the the grade of a coin is equal to the preservation of the coin, the grading system goes as follows:
Circulated Coinage (That is, coins that were meant to be circulated for use in the public.): PO(Poor)[lowest grade] to MS-70/Proof 70 ( the best grade possible):
*Poor - 1 Description: Identifiable date and type.
FR - 2 Description: Mostly worn, though some detail is visible.
About good - 3 Description: Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn.
Good - 4 Description: Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full.
Good - 6 Description: Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full.
Very good - 8 Description: Design worn with slight detail.
Very good - 10 Description: Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer.
Fine - 12 = F-12 Description: Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp.
Fine - 15 = F - 15 Description: Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp.
Very fine - 20 = VF - 20 Description: Some definiton of detail, all lettering full and sharp.
Very fine - 25 = VF - 25 Description: Slightly more definition in detail and lettering.
Very fine - 30 = VF - 30 Description: Almost complete detail with flat areas.
.. VF 35 Description: Detail is complete but worn with high points flat.
Extremely Fine 40 = EF-40 Description: Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat
Extremely Fine 45 = EF - 45 Description: Detail is complete with some high points flat.
About Uncirculated 50 = AU - 50 Description: Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points.
About Uncirulated 53 = AU - 53 Description: Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more surface, very slight flatness on high points.
About Uncirculated 55 = AU - 55 Description: Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 of surface, mainly on high points.
About Uncirulated 58 = AU - 58 Description: full detail with only slight friction on the high points
Mint state (MS) 60 Description: No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines , strike may not be full.
MS 61 Description: No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 62 Description: No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 63 Description: Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 64 Description: Few marks/hairlines, or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or more.
MS 65 Description: Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike.
MS 66 Description: Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike.
MS 67 Description: Virtually as struck with minor inperfections, very well struck.
MS 68 Description: Virtually as struck with slight imperfection, slighest weakness of strike allowed.
MS 69 Description: Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary.
MS 70 Description:As struck, with full strike./*
--------
MS stands for "mint state".
The difference between all grades under Mint state is that they have wear. All coins mint state grade and above (for example , proof) show no signs of wear. Rather their imperfections are measured with minor scratches, nicks, dings, etc.
MS-70 (the best grade possible) which refers to the grade of a coin JUST as it was minted. Realisitically, finding a coin in this condition even in the same year as now is slim to none. Even a minor imperfection such as a hairline (a very slim scratch) reduces the grade in Mint state by several points.
[Caring for your coins]:
Caring for your coins is very important.
Be sure if your coin is not solid gold, to put them in NON PVC flips. PVC is "polyvinyl choloride), which, under the right conditions , will flake off and may ruin your coin. Coins in non PVC flips however have their disadvantages; the plastic flip creates friction with the coin and may scratch it.Normal flexible PVC flips dont do this .However, its best to use non PVC flips or another form of protection for your coins.
(More to be updated soon)
-----
[Toning]
Toning is the process in which, over time, coins may turn different colors. Sometimes the colors of a rainbow. If you place a coin in paper, and leave it there for several years, and the metal is reactive (such as silver, it tarnishes) the sulfurs in the paper will react with the coin and may form attractive colors. This is a preimum known to coins as toning. Attractive toning can potentially raise the value of a coin. Toning that isn't attractive can do the opposite.
"Unattractive" toning usually is the dark brown/yellow tarnish you see on silverware.
Closing:
Numismatists are people who study money. Welcome to the forum, and I hope you have a good time here. I will try my best to update this soon as I can.
[Key points with coins:]
We will now go over several terms of numistic lingo, or slang. Some of these terms are the actual terms used.
Minting - The process of a coin being struck.
Proof - A specially designed coin in which the devices of the coin and the raised parts of the coin (There's a term for it, I forget..) contrast, creating a mirror finish/"frost" effect. The die for the coin being struck is specially prepared and the coin is struck several times to ensure good detail on the coin.
Frost - No, not the type of frost on a cold winter night in New York. Rather, in coin terms, frost is the part of the raised surfaces of a coin when it is struck with the proof process. Cameo is the effect of a deep contrast between the mirrored surfaces of a proof coin, and the raised parts of the coin. Cameo is apparent if the fields (I'm referring to the dark mirrored surface of a coin, not the raised part here) of a coin contrast well (are dark in comparison to) with the devices (the raised parts of a coin).
Deep Cameo is the same as cameo just stronger. A forum member Russ has several deep cameo silver kenndys he posts alot. If he could post one here, it'd be helpful to showing the new people here the cameo effect I'm referring to.
* - According to the PCGS Grading Book.
This is a deep cameo coin. Notice how well the fields of the coin contrast with the raised devices of the coin. Black agianst white.
-------------[Chapter 1]---------------------
SubChap. A ..... Coins |
SubChap. B ..... Grading. |
SubChap. C ..... Caring For Your coins. |
SubChap. D ..... Key points in grading. |
-------------------------------------------------/
[Coins]
Coin is a vague term for money. Money powers our life in many ways. Did you look in your change today? Notice the marks on the reverse? Or how about that blazing luster on the obverse? Did you notice the strike on the words LIBERTY? Was the coin toned? Did it have a mintmark, if so, where from?
These are many of the questions Numismatists ask themselfs everyday when grading coins.
I guess I should go over what a grade means. A grade is simply the preservation of the coin. There are 4 or more factors that represent a coins grade, here are some of them:
1) Marks. (Rim dings, hairlines, etc.)
2) Luster (Commonly referred to as 'a cartwheel' that is; a type of luster on a coin. It can also be described as how 'shiny' a coin is.)
3) Strike. (sometimes incorpated with wear in lower grades. Strike is how well a coin is struck at the mint. Proof coins are struck several times to ensure good detail on the coin.)
4) Eye Appeal (All coins tone some. Usually its not attractive toning, such as brown or yellowish hues on a coin. But sometimes, it can be colorful and quite attractive.)
The above are the basic elements of a coins grade.
The Grading Scale:
Since the the grade of a coin is equal to the preservation of the coin, the grading system goes as follows:
Circulated Coinage (That is, coins that were meant to be circulated for use in the public.): PO(Poor)[lowest grade] to MS-70/Proof 70 ( the best grade possible):
*Poor - 1 Description: Identifiable date and type.
FR - 2 Description: Mostly worn, though some detail is visible.
About good - 3 Description: Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn.
Good - 4 Description: Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full.
Good - 6 Description: Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full.
Very good - 8 Description: Design worn with slight detail.
Very good - 10 Description: Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer.
Fine - 12 = F-12 Description: Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp.
Fine - 15 = F - 15 Description: Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp.
Very fine - 20 = VF - 20 Description: Some definiton of detail, all lettering full and sharp.
Very fine - 25 = VF - 25 Description: Slightly more definition in detail and lettering.
Very fine - 30 = VF - 30 Description: Almost complete detail with flat areas.
.. VF 35 Description: Detail is complete but worn with high points flat.
Extremely Fine 40 = EF-40 Description: Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat
Extremely Fine 45 = EF - 45 Description: Detail is complete with some high points flat.
About Uncirculated 50 = AU - 50 Description: Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points.
About Uncirulated 53 = AU - 53 Description: Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more surface, very slight flatness on high points.
About Uncirculated 55 = AU - 55 Description: Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 of surface, mainly on high points.
About Uncirulated 58 = AU - 58 Description: full detail with only slight friction on the high points
Mint state (MS) 60 Description: No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines , strike may not be full.
MS 61 Description: No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 62 Description: No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 63 Description: Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full.
MS 64 Description: Few marks/hairlines, or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or more.
MS 65 Description: Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike.
MS 66 Description: Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike.
MS 67 Description: Virtually as struck with minor inperfections, very well struck.
MS 68 Description: Virtually as struck with slight imperfection, slighest weakness of strike allowed.
MS 69 Description: Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary.
MS 70 Description:As struck, with full strike./*
--------
MS stands for "mint state".
The difference between all grades under Mint state is that they have wear. All coins mint state grade and above (for example , proof) show no signs of wear. Rather their imperfections are measured with minor scratches, nicks, dings, etc.
MS-70 (the best grade possible) which refers to the grade of a coin JUST as it was minted. Realisitically, finding a coin in this condition even in the same year as now is slim to none. Even a minor imperfection such as a hairline (a very slim scratch) reduces the grade in Mint state by several points.
[Caring for your coins]:
Caring for your coins is very important.
Be sure if your coin is not solid gold, to put them in NON PVC flips. PVC is "polyvinyl choloride), which, under the right conditions , will flake off and may ruin your coin. Coins in non PVC flips however have their disadvantages; the plastic flip creates friction with the coin and may scratch it.Normal flexible PVC flips dont do this .However, its best to use non PVC flips or another form of protection for your coins.
(More to be updated soon)
-----
[Toning]
Toning is the process in which, over time, coins may turn different colors. Sometimes the colors of a rainbow. If you place a coin in paper, and leave it there for several years, and the metal is reactive (such as silver, it tarnishes) the sulfurs in the paper will react with the coin and may form attractive colors. This is a preimum known to coins as toning. Attractive toning can potentially raise the value of a coin. Toning that isn't attractive can do the opposite.
"Unattractive" toning usually is the dark brown/yellow tarnish you see on silverware.
Closing:
Numismatists are people who study money. Welcome to the forum, and I hope you have a good time here. I will try my best to update this soon as I can.
[Key points with coins:]
We will now go over several terms of numistic lingo, or slang. Some of these terms are the actual terms used.
Minting - The process of a coin being struck.
Proof - A specially designed coin in which the devices of the coin and the raised parts of the coin (There's a term for it, I forget..) contrast, creating a mirror finish/"frost" effect. The die for the coin being struck is specially prepared and the coin is struck several times to ensure good detail on the coin.
Frost - No, not the type of frost on a cold winter night in New York. Rather, in coin terms, frost is the part of the raised surfaces of a coin when it is struck with the proof process. Cameo is the effect of a deep contrast between the mirrored surfaces of a proof coin, and the raised parts of the coin. Cameo is apparent if the fields (I'm referring to the dark mirrored surface of a coin, not the raised part here) of a coin contrast well (are dark in comparison to) with the devices (the raised parts of a coin).
Deep Cameo is the same as cameo just stronger. A forum member Russ has several deep cameo silver kenndys he posts alot. If he could post one here, it'd be helpful to showing the new people here the cameo effect I'm referring to.
* - According to the PCGS Grading Book.
This is a deep cameo coin. Notice how well the fields of the coin contrast with the raised devices of the coin. Black agianst white.
0
Comments
2) Luster (Commonly referred to as 'a cartwheel' that is; a type of luster on a coin. It can also be described as how 'shiny' a coin is.)
3) Strike. (sometimes incorpated with wear in lower grades. Strike is how well a coin is struck at the mint. Proof coins are struck several times to ensure good detail on the coin.)
4) Toning. (All coins tone some. Usually its not attractive toning, such as brown or yellowish hues on a coin. But sometimes, it can be colorful and quite attractive.)
#4 Should not be toning. It should be "eye appeal" and toning falls into that category. With #4 being toning , your saying that white coins do not have eye appeal or has negative effects to the grade. Without toning a coin will grade. Toning helps the coins eye appeal which helps the over all grade but toning is not a major componant to the grade of the coin, eye appeal is.
I hope people will be able to read this before it gets lost
ttt
ttt
42/92
<< <i>Very good GCL
Thank you! I like to read alot..but its weird. I have lots of book in my house right now and (believe it or not) I'm afraid to read them. I don't know why..but when its at school, I read them. But not at home..hehe.
“It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so.” Mark Twain
Newmismatist
and i enjoyed reading your short essay on coins goldcoinlover
michael
Imagine what you will learn and know with another 20 years of experience. You will then begin to forget more than you know!
I copied and pasted your thread into a Word document to use as a future quick reference guide...especially helpful will be the section on assigning grades.
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
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