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Raw vs. Certified, for VF - XF Barber quarters and halves?

My questions go out to all forum members who are currently working on, or who have completed a set of Barber quarters or halves in VF - XF condition. What was the determining factor in whether you purchased a coin raw or certified? Was it the availability of the coin, the price of the coin, the look of the coin, or possibly all of these factors? With regards to the look of the coin, what was the "perfect" look, for a Barber quarter or half, in lets say, VF condition? Pictures would be appreciated.

Comments

  • sadysta1sadysta1 Posts: 1,309 ✭✭✭

    Perfect look #1

    Perfect look #2

    To answer your question - you'll have a hard time getting a certified set, in lower grades (keys excluded) there coins are not worth certifying,
  • ARCOARCO Posts: 4,396 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The Barber coinage is relatively easy to grade. The Barber quarters are probably the more difficult of the three series to grade due to hub changes which has the LIBERTY wearing in different relations at certain junctures in time.

    The 1896-S, 1901-S and 1913-S should never ever, ever, ever, ever be bought raw, and a wise collector will wait for a nice PCGS, NGC or ANACS specimen. Those dates are heavily counterfeited, and while an experienced collector may be able to distinguish counterfeit from the genuine article...it is only a matter of time for a deception and financial loss.

    One of the great allures of collecting barber coinage is that with some experience, buying and selling raw G-XF coinage is quite easy and both buyers and sellers feel very comfortable doing so.

    There are more than one perfect look, but Sadysta's example is one of the nicest original looks found in circulated silver coins, in my opinion. You will want a proportionally dirty coin. A coin that looks like it is antique, dull, and with dull silver coloring or darker toning. You don't want shiney and you don't want hairlines. Variances without those two detractors are up to you and how you like the eye appeal of the coin.

    I have some pictures of Barber halves which tone nearly identically to the quarters. Here are three different "original" looks:

    lightly toned - Dull silver
    medium toned. More dirt, but still proportional.
    Darker toned, but proportional and not too dark.
    The "album toned" look. A very cool Barber toning

    Tyler
  • Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,529 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dan -

    Hooked on Barbers, eh?

    You poor b*a*s*t*a*r*d !

    I’ve been working on circulated quarters and halves for quite awhile. I’d guess my collection is 65% raw, and 35% slabbed. Most of my material is in the VF20 - VF35 range. I find that once you get comfortable with the series, it’s very easy to separate the nice material from the junk, whether slabbed or not. A lot of nice quarter and halves have never been submitted.

    "The Look” is all that matters to me. I want an unaltered, evenly matched set, and I reject a ton of material that doesn’t meet my criteria. I can’t even begin to describe or count the mountain of obviously cleaned “certified” examples I’ve passed on (and I’m talking the Big 3 slabbers – not ACG!). I can’t believe how liberal PCGS gets on keys and semi-keys Barbers. Give me a break!

    I love to locate circs that look like Sadysta1’s example. But it’s a long search sometimes.....long indeed. But that just adds to the satisfaction when I locate something pristine.

    Dave
    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
  • jdimmickjdimmick Posts: 9,674 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Here's my favorite barber coin :

    When I found this coin, I like to fell out of my chair. Its has the ultimate look of what you want to see in a Fine barber quarter, and just happens to be a good date. At the time, I paid 170% of CDN and was told I was a fool. Well 13 months later, everyone from coast to coast wants to buy it with two offers currently at near twice what I paid.

    jimimageimage
  • Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,529 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Jim – That’s a textbook cast counterfeit. image

    But luckily I collect them. Will you take $5,000.00 for it?

    Dave
    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
  • ARCOARCO Posts: 4,396 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I get all excited on these Barber threads, then Jim posts his 1901-S and I feel I must go and open up my big jug of vodka and drink myself to oblivion in a state of total depression! image

    Tyler
  • originalisbestoriginalisbest Posts: 5,917 ✭✭✭✭
    You know, every time I see Jim's '01-S, I find myself envious. Just can't help it! image
  • ziggy29ziggy29 Posts: 18,668 ✭✭✭
    Dang, that '01-S is sweeeeet. It's a better looking coin than most VFs. Hmmm. Buy this coin or pay my property taxes for the next two years... image
  • To answer your question - you'll have a hard time getting a certified set, in lower grades (keys excluded) there coins are not worth certifying, >>



    Sadysta1,

    I should have clarified my question better, I was mainly referring to semi key and key date Barber halves. The cost of a better date Barber half, (1901-s, 1897-o, or 1904-s), in VF - XF condition, could run into a few hundred dollars or more. I was wondering if you guys would hold out for a certified example of these keys, because of the cost involved, or take the chance of buying one raw, if a nice original coin comes along.

    I agree, the cost of a common date Barber quarter or Barber half in VF really doesn't warrant it having to be certified.

    Your pictures certainly have that "perfect" look for a Barber coin, thanks for sharing.

  • CaseyCasey Posts: 1,502 ✭✭
    Sorry this is off topic slightly, but here's a perfect dime (IMO).

    image
  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,086 ✭✭✭✭✭
    nice example Jim...

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • Tyler,

    I have the big 3, (1896-s, 1901-s, and 1913-s), of the Barber quarter series, all certified. The 1896-s is certified by NGC as VF-30, the 1901-s by PCGS as VG-8, and the 1913-s by PCGS as AU-53. I am trying to collect the remainder of the Barber quarter set in the VF - XF range. The big 3 were purchased first, at different times, in the highest grade I could afford at the time. I'm currently working on the semi keys to the set, followed by the more common dates.

    I think I'm partial to the "album toned" look, on Barber quarters and halves. Thanks for the great pictures, and for showing the different looks to VF - XF Barbers.
  • Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,529 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dan -

    Sounds like you have a HUGE start on the quarter series. Congrats...

    How about posting some images of your big trio? Is that possible? I'd be interested is seeing all three, especialy the 13-s.

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
  • MFHMFH Posts: 11,720 ✭✭✭✭
    Tyler- Nice pic's. I love your VF-XF set.

    Jim- Very nice 01-S quarter. Excellent coin for the grade. I almost fell off my chair when you posted it , too.

    Barberman55- Nice pick up on the 13-S in PCGS AU 53...very tough coin.
    Mike Hayes
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !

    New Barber Purchases
  • ccexccex Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭
    I agree wholeheartedly with what Tyler said. (buy the big 3 quarters certified only and have fun looking for the others raw but with the original look).

    My Barber Dime set is finally up to snuff, but I'm still upgrading my halves and trying to complete the quarters.

    Here's one of my best recent purchases, a nice 1910 half, which I purchased from forum member Cratylus:

    image
    "Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by stupidity" - Hanlon's Razor
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    if you collect 'em in a dansco, it's very ez & convenient to carry then around in the album to shows, etc. imagine lugging around boxes full of clumsy slabs, though.

    K S


  • << <i>Dan -

    Sounds like you have a HUGE start on the quarter series. Congrats...

    How about posting some images of your big trio? Is that possible? I'd be interested is seeing all three, especialy the 13-s.

    Thanks,
    Dave >>



    Dave,

    I would love to post the pictures, but first I have to figure out how to use either my scanner, or my wife's new digital camera. When I can use either one correctly, I'll be happy to post the pictures. When I initially purchased the keys to the barber quarter series, it was for the purpose of working on a type set, using keys and semi keys as my types. Because they always referred to the big "3", as the keys, I decided to get all 3 for my type set. I really liked the Barber series and have decided to pursue the rest of the series in VF - XF condition. The fun really begins now, now that the keys are out of the way.

    I picked up the 1913-s barber quarter, in AU 53 condition, because of the rarity of the coin in AU grade. I think Dave Lawrence gives it either a R6 or R7 rarity rating in this grade. Some have said the 1913-s in AU is as scarce, or scarcer, then the 1901-s in the same grade.

  • MFHMFH Posts: 11,720 ✭✭✭✭


    Dan,

    I picked my 13-S up from DLRC, it goes into PCGS on Thursday for cross over from its ICG AU 58 holder. It may not go to a 58, but I'll settle for a 55.

    I'm crossing my fingers !
    Mike Hayes
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !

    New Barber Purchases


  • << <i>Dan,

    I picked my 13-S up from DLRC, it goes into PCGS on Thursday for cross over from its ICG AU 58 holder. It may not go to a 58, but I'll settle for a 55.

    I'm crossing my fingers ! >>



    Mike,

    Good luck with the crossover. The 13-s I have, has fairly dark toning, a strong strike, underlying luster showing thru, and a real smooth cheek for an AU-53. When you get the results of the crossover, let us know how you made out.

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