Back from Xmas in So. Cal. with a new type set addition (Raw MS 1913 Type 1 Buffalo Nickel) and ques
SanctionII
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Back in the saddle from Xmas in So. Cal. While there I stopped by a local shop and picked up a 1913 Type 1 Buffalo Nickel for my U.S. Type Set.
It was modest in price ($30.00) and I was intrigued by it. I am not familiar with MS Buffalos. Prior to my Xmas purchase I had only a 1938D MS Buffalo. It is also in my type set and it has what to me is a traditional MS look (nice vibrant luster that has great eye appeal). It is somewhat golden in color.
The 1913 Type 1 is battleship grey in color. It has a muted luster. On first look it does not appear to have much if any eye appeal. However, looking at it with a loupe under good lighting reveals nice eye appeal. It has nice original skin. I have compared it to the 1938D and the two coins are completely different in look, but I like both of them.
The coins are the first year and the last year of the series. I am curious if the different look of the coins is typical and whether MS Buffalos have a standard "look" to them.
Any input from Buffalo collectors would be appreciated.
It was modest in price ($30.00) and I was intrigued by it. I am not familiar with MS Buffalos. Prior to my Xmas purchase I had only a 1938D MS Buffalo. It is also in my type set and it has what to me is a traditional MS look (nice vibrant luster that has great eye appeal). It is somewhat golden in color.
The 1913 Type 1 is battleship grey in color. It has a muted luster. On first look it does not appear to have much if any eye appeal. However, looking at it with a loupe under good lighting reveals nice eye appeal. It has nice original skin. I have compared it to the 1938D and the two coins are completely different in look, but I like both of them.
The coins are the first year and the last year of the series. I am curious if the different look of the coins is typical and whether MS Buffalos have a standard "look" to them.
Any input from Buffalo collectors would be appreciated.
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Comments
SanctionII,
As you may or may not know, I am a passionate Buffalo nickel collector. If you say that your 13-P T1 and 38-D look totally different, then you have the right coins.
The Type 1's have a very different look (and luster) than those from the 30's. Do you have any images?
Also, a Buffalo nickel minted before 1916 will have a relatively weak LIBERTY regardless of how well the coin has been struck overall. On the other hand, each 1938-D should have a very prominent LIBERTY.
Unfortunately I have no digital camera and thus can not provide images.
I am looking at the two coins. They are as you have described. The 1913 has a pebbly appearance in the fields. The 1938 has a smooth appearance. Also the Liberty on the 1913 is weak and on the 1938 is strong.
Thanks again for your thoughtful comments.
The 1913 Type 1 nickel is one of the best struck buffalo nickels in the series. On many coins, however, the obverse rim and Liberty are not fully struck. The fields of this date are uniquely textured and early die strikes have a shimmering luster. Often this luster can cause a coin to be misidentified as a proof coin.
The Type 1 was hoarded and at large shows, uncirculated rolls are sometimes seen for sale. Superb coins are always for sale.
If you decide to collect Buffalo nickels, I suggest you read and/or acquire the publication The Complete Guide to Buffalo Nickels by David Lange. It contains a great deal of useful information.
<< <i>Welcome to Buffalo nickel collecting. I hope you become an avid collector of the series... >>
Yea, like we need more competition or something...
<< <i>...it is one of the more interesting near "modern" series to collect due in part to a high degree of variability from year to year in striking characteristics and the challenge to find nice coins. >>
OnlyBuffalos is right. This series has some wild variation in strike qualities (among other things) from year to year and from mint to mint. For instance, 1926-P is almost always well struck, but 1926-D is so poorly struck, you might think you were looking at a coin that would only grade FINE when in fact it would grade MS63. I will admit, however, that these variations are what make this series so much fun for me.
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Chris
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
The Ludlow Brilliant Collection (1938-64)
GAT, as I travel for business and pleasure I always stop at local shops to snoop, cherrypick and talk coins. As for So. Cal., there is an imbalance of coins between So. Cal. and No. Cal., with So. Cal. having more than its fair share. I do my small part in accomplishing a more even distribution of coins by picking up all the really, really, really nice coins I can in So. Cal. and bringing them back to No. Cal. Also, taking them away from the So. Cal. basin preserves the coins better since they are no longer exposed to the "brown blanket of smog" (LOL).