New to Sports Card Grading - Input Please!

edwin5375

I am new to getting sports cards graded. I just started submitting some cards to PSA. I submitted some cards that I really thought were in excellent condition, but the highest grade was a 7.

I would really like some input or advice on which cards to submit to grade, and what are some of the things that I can look for to submit cards that will rate at least 9. Any help to steer me in the right direction would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

dontippet

Look at cards in person that are already graded 9. Buy a 10x loupe. You really can't send in cards expecting 9's unless you have observed them with a loupe. That is how particular you need to be. Realize that a PSA 9 card is a mint card, it should be nearly flawless with nice centering. Sometimes these imperfections are only noticable under magnification.

Don

RepublicaninMass

Just wait until you submit one expecting a 9 and get a 5 because of the faintest lightest wrinkle possible on the back edge of the card!

A761506

Centering is a crucial element in the grading process. If your card is too off-center, you will wind up with lower grades or OC qualifiers, which are treated like the touch of death when it comes to the value of the card. It's possible to measure the centering relatively accurately simply by using a millimeter scale. Then look at the PSA grading qualifications to see what the centering standards are for each grade.

Aside from that, it is extremly important to use a high power (10x) magnifier. You can pick one up at a store like JoAnn's fabric, they are referred to as thread counters there. Use it to examine not just the corners, but the edges and entire surface of your cards, and you will quickly see the defects that caused your cards to get graded as 5-6-7 or even 8. The difference between an 8 an 9 seems very small until you examine a lot of them to get to understand those slight differences, and the difference between a 9 and a 10 is somewhat subjective, depending on who is grading, a 9 could be a 10 one day, and a 10 could be a 9 another.

calleocho

it really depends on what cards you are getting graded.

tabacco and caramels cards grade 7 are quite nice

Dallas88

Edwin

The best thing to do, if you can, is find someone (dealer, friend) who collects and submits graded cards, and have them point out some of the crucial aspects that you are missing, or overlooking.

Don't worry, it has happened to almost everyone on this board.

Once someone, in person, points out to you, and you can see the minor differences between a 7 and a 9, you will better understand the grading process.

Good luck - my learning came from a very friendly dealer at a small card show in KC - I probably learned more that day about card evaluation, than my previous umpteen years in the hobby!

Dal

Pinkcatfish

This may seem a little over the top but a few years ago I picked up a 30x at a Radio Shack. There was
nothing that escaped that thing (corners, edges, etc). It proved to be very reliable while I was learning
the subtle differences between the grades. Still use it occasionally.

cwadley

Hehe.. I can certainly relate to this. I'm just getting back into collecting/trading after leaving the hobby in the early '90's. I discovered PSA, signed up, and submitted six of (I thought) my best cards for grading. Yeah, well, the results ain't so hot -- three 6's, and a 7, 8, and 9, but all of the latter had qualifiers). And they're all considered to be "modern" cards that are virtually worthless unless 8 NQ. But hey, I was a damn kid when I collected 'em. At any rate, it certainly makes you appreciate those PSA 10's and 9 NQ's much more!

Chris

Stone193

edwin
Welcome! Good luck and hope you stay a while. Otherwise, my advice to you is to start drinking heavily .

your friend
Mike

dtkk49a

Check this site out for some helpful grading info:

Grading info

helionaut

Basically, if you take a quick look at a card and notice any flaws, it's a 7 or less. If you take a good, studied look and find one small flaw you missed on the quick look, it might be an 8. If you look very hard for 5 minutes with a glass and find no flaws, it's a 9. 10s are capriciously given. Depending on what the card is, you can then decide if it's worth submitting. I tend to go by the decade, and add one to figure what is a desirable grade. That is, if it's an 80s card, I would want 9s minimum. If it's 50s, I want 6s. Obviously, there are exceptions for rookie cards and ultra-low print run modern cards, but that's generally my rule.