Buying Raw Cards - Selling Graded Ones
jskirwin
Posts: 700 ✭✭✭
Any advice on doing this on eBay?
Is there any term for this process (churning? bouncing?)?
I’m not trying to get rich, but I don’t want to lose money either.
I just thought I would put my new Collectors Club membership to good use*.
And I enjoy bidding.
Thanks!
JSK
*Justify the expense to the wife.
Is there any term for this process (churning? bouncing?)?
I’m not trying to get rich, but I don’t want to lose money either.
I just thought I would put my new Collectors Club membership to good use*.
And I enjoy bidding.
Thanks!
JSK
*Justify the expense to the wife.
0
Comments
So there is really no good way to make it work if you have to pay normal submission fees.
Current Sets in Progress:
1956 Topps Master Set PSA 6 or better
1978 Topps PSA 9 or 10
1981 Donruss Golf PSA 9 or 10
1989 Upper Deck PSA 9 or 10
Nolan Ryan Master Set
Pete Rose Master Set
Anywhere from trimmed to PSA 10. Most of the stuff fell in between grades of 7 - 9.
The ones that were mint indeed, I've gone back to the same seller. Also check whatever
else the seller is selling. If he has a bunch of PSA 9s and 10s and is also selling a bunch
of raw; I would not bother.....obviously the raw were not worth sending in.
I also try not to spend over $20 on a raw card. Anything over that and hoping for high
grade would just prove disappointing and a waste of money. Like you, I like to bid/buy.
It's the fun of getting goodies in the mail everyday.
Rainman - have to ask - how many toothpicks?
Buying from random ebayers, even with modern cards, is risky business. You can get 10's, but you'll get a lot of crap in the process. I set up snipes for cards that are much lower than what the cards usually go for. So, even if it isn't gem (and they usually aren't), I still come out ahead. If they're below nm/mt, I ask for a refund. You NEVER want to pay the going rate for a card unless it's from a reputable dealer. Buying rookie lots can also work, but you have to make sure you're getting a good price.
A word on reputable dealers - DON'T assume that, because a dealer doesn't have graded card sales in his f/b history that he's not submitting cards. There are many sellers who do just what you do and they relist the ungradeable cards under different accounts. One tell-tale sign is that they only list valuable star cards from a wide assortment of sets. A dealer who's just opening product and listing it will have all the cheap inserts and commons up for sale too.
One other thing - in a previous post Vincecarder listed all the ebay sales from one of Vince's key serial-numbered rookies. As I recall, most of the cards that were resold on ebay as bgs 9.5's or psa 10's were actually purchased as psa or bgs 9's. Most of the raw cards were just resold raw or as 9's if they were relisted at all. You could probably do better with newer cards just buying already graded ones and resubmitting the borderline 9/10 cards. It's not as risky doing that with newer cards because 9's generally sell the same as raw cards anyway. Sometimes they sell for less (depending on the set), which shows you how bright a lot of modern collectors really are.
I've noticed that raw cards often sell for more than graded ones - which doesn't make any sense to me unless people are paying for the expectation a card will grade higher. If true, that's pretty dumb.
2005 Origins Old Judge Brown #/20 and Black 1/1s, 2000 Ultimate Victory Gold #/25
2004 UD Legends Bake McBride autos & parallels, and 1974 Topps #601 PSA 9
Rare Grady Sizemore parallels, printing plates, autographs
Nothing on ebay