Serious PSA Graded Star Wars Cards Thread (Worldwide!)

transparent

Whelp, you may notice that I have some PSA graded sets started.... U.S. Topps, Canadian OPC, and U.S. Topps Stickers. I have also submitted Kellogg's U.S., Kellogg's Canadian, Scanlens, and a few others - only some of which showed up in the Population Report. PSA returned my U.S. Burger King and Topps #207 errors and ungradable (they don't grade these cards).

Anyway, for a serious discussion here.... I have these questions:

1) What do you do if PSA makes a mistake? I have one card that is listed on the tag and in there database as a different number than is actually on the card. I also have two cards that obviously had the qualifier switched (a perfectly centered card has an "OC" tag, and another badly off center card has no tag, and they are consecutive serial numbers).

2) Is there any way to tell, before you submit the cards, if PSA will grade them? Since the 1977 U.K. series one cards are almost identical to the Topps U.S. and Australian Scanlens cards (#1-66), I wonder how PSA would be able to authenticate them? Do they really have a world reknown expert on Star Wars cards behind the scenes somewhere? I'm also interested in sending in some of my Argentina gummed album stickers for grading (or just "AUTHENTIC" would be fine).... but again, how would they know?

3) My Topps Mexican Star Wars cards are all over the board with defects. Some have stains from gum, other have stains that may be from gum or something else. Some of the gum stains are really really bad. Will they still grade these on the 1-10 scale, and how do they balance corner wear with other defects? For example, a perfect mint card with a gum stain on the back can have awesome eye appeal, but I assume the gum stain would kill the grade. Another card with beat up corners and no gum stain, could get the same grade but be a MUCH less desirable card....

Ok, have more... But wondering if anyone even cares hehe before I continue.

Punker-Paul/ Transparent/ PJH
http://www.transparentrecords.com/starwarscards/Starwars.htm

helionaut

1) What do you do if PSA makes a mistake? I have one card that is listed on the tag and in there database as a different number than is actually on the card. I also have two cards that obviously had the qualifier switched (a perfectly centered card has an "OC" tag, and another badly off center card has no tag, and they are consecutive serial numbers).

If the flip and the card don't match up as far as card numbers, names, etc., that is a "mechanical error" and you can send the card to PSA and they will correct the label for free. You still have to pay postage, though, so send in corrections when you submit more for grading. If you have a problem with the grades, it's best to call customer service and ask them. In the situation you describe, they will probably agree if you send them both in with some sort of note or other documentation per customer service.

2) Is there any way to tell, before you submit the cards, if PSA will grade them? Since the 1977 U.K. series one cards are almost identical to the Topps U.S. and Australian Scanlens cards (#1-66), I wonder how PSA would be able to authenticate them? Do they really have a world reknown expert on Star Wars cards behind the scenes somewhere? I'm also interested in sending in some of my Argentina gummed album stickers for grading (or just "AUTHENTIC" would be fine).... but again, how would they know?

This is likely to be a growing concern for PSA as more foreign cards are submitted. For US-produced cards, it seems that they grade any licensed 2.5"x3.5" card. For foreign issues, even ones by Topps and other known card makers, it's best to call to verify. I have often wondered how they authenticate newly-discovered issues, or foreign issues it's likely no one at PSA has ever handled before. I would guess they compare them with contemporary issues. That is, if a 1977 card is printed on white cardstock with a laser-printer, it's probably not really from 1977. I don't know of any master list available for what they will or will not grade, as new issues are discovered all the time. But if it's in the pop report, they will most likely continue to grade them. But again, call customer service first.

3) My Topps Mexican Star Wars cards are all over the board with defects. Some have stains from gum, other have stains that may be from gum or something else. Some of the gum stains are really really bad. Will they still grade these on the 1-10 scale, and how do they balance corner wear with other defects? For example, a perfect mint card with a gum stain on the back can have awesome eye appeal, but I assume the gum stain would kill the grade. Another card with beat up corners and no gum stain, could get the same grade but be a MUCH less desirable card....

Stains are usually handled with a ST qualifier. The physical shape of the card is assigned a numerical grade, and then any other factors are used to qualify the grade, so you might have an absolutely beautiful card with sharp corners and perfect centering, but a noticeable wax or gum stain will make it a 9ST. If a card is stained but has rounded corners and creases, it might be a 5ST. I don't think they give qualifers to 10s, though. There's no such thing as a 10ST. Alternatiely, you can request "no qualifiers" on your invoice and they will lower the overall grade an appropriate amount and not give it the qualifier. A minor stain might knock it down a grade, while a major pen mark might take it down 3 or 4.

transparent

Hey, thanks. There is some good information there. I will send a note to PSA right away (starting with an E-mail) to determine if they will grade my set from Argentina, and my Topps U.K. series one set.

I didn't know that you could request no qualifiers. Wow. I always thought that if you had a card with no "OC" or "ST" qualifier that it was guaranteed to be centered and free of gum stains. I guess that's not the case. Personally - my acceptance of qualifiers depends on the set. For my U.S. Topps set, qualifiers are unacceptable. For my Mexican set, every card can have a qualifier (mis-cuts, off-centers, and gum stains were just part of that issue IMO)!

Thanks again.... I hope more people will post to this thread!!

speeder

hi paul,

great site, super collection !!

maybe you can help me, i need just 7 more sugarfree wrappers to have a complete set. #2, 4, 9, 11, 22, 42, 48

either way, welcome aboard !




thanks, lee

transparent

Sorry, I don't have any extras of those right now. There are about 4-5 auctions on eBay for them as of today - and at least one is just a bunch of single wrappers. Check that out, and maybe it will hell. Just FYI, here's my trade & primary want list as of today:

Trade List:
1) Complete set of (6) 1980 New Zealand circular Twinkies stickers
2) Complete set of (6) 1980 Canadian circular York Peanut Butter cards
3) Complete uncut set of (6) 1977 Japanese “Roadshow” cards
4) Complete set of (72) 1977 Australian Scanlens Star Wars cards
5) (2) Hershey’s Tray Cards (Hershey’s Bars, Hershey’s Bars w/Almonds) both mint with tabs
6) Spanish Yoplait Stickers #1, 1, 1, 7, 11, 15, 15, 15, 15, 36, 39 (condition varies, but none too bad)
7) U.S. Topps Series One cards, PSA graded “9” with no qualifiers: 18, 25, 34, 35, 36, 50, 52, 56
8) U.S. Topps Series One cards, PSA graded “8” with no qualifiers: 12, 22, 24, 44, 45, 171
9) U.S. Dixie Cups strips: 1/13/20/9, 15/17/23/1
10) Mexican Star Wars wax wrapper set of 3, Scanlens Return of the Jedi wax wrapper set of 3, all U.S. wax wrapper sets.
11) 2 x Argentina “El Regresso Del Jedi” (Figuritas 1984) unopened packets.
12) 2 x Spain “La Guerra De Las Galaxias” (Printed in Barcelona 1977) unopened packets.
13) 2 x Italy “Star Wars” (Figurine Panini 1977) unopened packets.
14) 20 x U.K. Empire Strikes Back (F.K.S. 1980) unopened packets (all unglued, but complete).
15) U.S. Empire Strikes Back “collecting box”; mail-in premium, mint unused x 10

Wanted:
1) High Grade (VG/EX/NM, no gum stains) Mexican Star Wars cards.
2) High Grade (EX/NM) French Motta Ice Cream Cards or Spanish Yoplait stickers/pack(s),
3) Foreign wax packs, especially U.K. Star Wars series 2, Scanlens (any series) or quantities of OPC Star Wars Series 1, 2 or 3.
4) High grade (NM) U.K. series 2 cards, High grade (NM) Scanlens cards (any series).

speeder

hey paul,

i`ve checked those auctions and nothing there for me.

what do you know about the 1980 and 1995 star wars "steel" versions ?

they seem to be quite rare and expensive.

lee

transparent

I only collect 1977-1984 cards....

never heard about a "steel" edition from 1980??

Tell me more?

speeder

hey paul,

i`m taking this info from (gum guide 2)

from empire strikes back, topps, there are 6, and they are wide version. there is a ? beside the 1980?.

they show a price of $450

sorry, i can`t give you more.

lee

transparent

My guess is that it's a misprint, or the year is wrong. There are a few U.S. sets that are quite rare... and worth quite a lot. But nothing I have heard of from the vintage sets, would be a "steel" version and/or wide vision.

Paul

speeder

hi paul,

yes, that might be the case.

OR,,,, maybe its all very correct ???



your friend, lee

ajw

Speeder, have you seen this auction? It didn't seem clear to me if the box is full with unopened gum inside, or not. Still, I thought it was a nice item.

Sugar-less gum box

transparent

That is a sealed box of packs. If you open it up, there will be 36 pieces of gum and therefore 36 wrappers. Unfortunately, all 36 will belong to the same 8-wrapper sub-set from the complete set of 56 (7 subsets of 8). This means at best you can get a full subset of 8, with 28 doubles. The wrapper and box are nice, but it's really hard to get a complete set or specific singles from boxes. Especially when they go for $100+.

ajw

Is there a way to tell which versions are in the box? or do you have to open a pack and cross your fingers?

transparent

To the best of my knowledge there is no way to tell without opening a pack. Subsets of 8 go for about $25, so I think a box would be worth at least $100 but I couldn't see paying more than $125.

captfisch

Hi, it's good to see someone else crazy enough to get a 330 non-sport card set graded! I've seen you several times on eBay and Cathy's website as well. I have a bunch of PSA Star Wars cards to trade right now. I only need about 17 more to complete my set, but also looking to upgrade individual cards all the time. Take a look at what I still need on the Set Registry. I'll trade spare 8's for 8's, 9's for 9's, or three 8's for every 9. If you give up a card from your list to help me fill mine, I'll trade 2 for 1. My minimum grade is 7 to fill holes and I don't want qualifiers. Here's my batch:
Card # Grade

4 8
5 7
7 7
11 9
12 7, 9(OC)
13 9(OC)
14 8
16 9
18 9(OC)
20 8
26 9(OC)
33 8
35 8
38 8
39 7
41 9
42 8
43 7
44 9(OC)
46 7
47 8, 7
50 7
54 8
55 7, 8, 9(OC)
59 7, 8, 8
61 7
62 8
65 9(OC)
69 8, 7
73 8
76 7
77 8
81 8
82 8
83 8
86 8
88 7
93 8
94 7
96 7
99 7
101 7
102 8
103 8
104 8
109 8
117 8
120 8
125 7
131 7
134 8
137 7
141 8
144 7
146 7
154 8
155 7
163 7
173 8
179 8
187 7
190 7
206 7
208 7
209 8
211 8
213 8
215 8
224 7
225 7
232 7
235 8
236 8
237 8
238 8
240 8
241 8
242 7
248 7
254 9(PD)
256 7
259 8
260 7
261 7
264 7
265 8
267 7
268 8
269 7, 8
270 8
274 8
275 7
276 8
280 8
281 7
282 8
286 7
290 8
291 7
292 7
293 8
294 7
295 7
302 8
304 7
311 8
315 8
316 8
317 7
318 7
319 7
320 7
322 8
323 7
324 8
325 7
326 8
328 7
329 7
330 7

transparent

Jon,

I think all I have right now that would help you, is a PSA 9 of #52. Would you consider trading off some of your PSA 8 duplicates (you have 10-20 that I need) for non-PSA graded cards from other sets altogether? This is my trade list:

Trade List:
1) Complete set of (6) 1980 New Zealand circular Twinkies stickers
2) Complete set of (6) 1980 Canadian circular York Peanut Butter cards
3) Complete uncut set of (6) 1977 Japanese “Roadshow” cards
4) Complete set of (72) 1977 Australian Scanlens Star Wars cards
5) (2) Hershey’s Tray Cards (Hershey’s Bars, Hershey’s Bars w/Almonds) both mint with tabs (I just got in a few more of these too)
6) Spanish Yoplait Stickers #1, 1, 1, 7, 11, 15, 15, 15, 15, 36, 39 (condition varies, but none too bad)
7) U.S. Topps Series One cards, PSA graded “9” with no qualifiers: 18, 25, 34, 35, 36, 50, 52, 56
8) U.S. Topps Series One cards, PSA graded “8” with no qualifiers: 12, 22, 24, 44, 45, 171
9) U.S. Dixie Cups strips: 1/13/20/9, 15/17/23/1
10) Mexican Star Wars wax wrapper set of 3, Scanlens Return of the Jedi wax wrapper set of 3, all U.S. wax wrapper sets.
11) 2 x Argentina “El Regresso Del Jedi” (Figuritas 1984) unopened packets.
12) 2 x Spain “La Guerra De Las Galaxias” (Printed in Barcelona 1977) unopened packets.
13) 2 x Italy “Star Wars” (Figurine Panini 1977) unopened packets.
14) 20 x U.K. Empire Strikes Back (F.K.S. 1980) unopened packets (all unglued, but complete).
15) U.S. Empire Strikes Back “collecting box”; mail-in premium, mint unused x 10

I hope you will follow me in using PSA to grade some truly rare sets!!! I recently sent in a bunch of cards from the U.K. series 1 and 2 sets; I'm planning to finish those with PSA next. I've also sent in some Pacosa Dos ROTJ cards to PSA, some Spanish Yoplait stickers, a good portion of my Topps Mexico Star Wars cards, several Scanlens Star Wars high numbers, U.S. Wonder Bread cards, and Topps Stickers. I have requested that some of these sets be added to the set registry; but since I don't have complete sets of many of them - and don't know anyone that does - I'm not sure how they will do it. Plus, a few (like the Yopliat stickers) don't even have captions!

Paul Holstein
http://www.transparentrecords.com/starwarscards/Starwars.htm

captfisch

Hi, I have most of what you have, but I will trade you six 8's of your choice for the #52 9, the Dixie strip with #1 on it, and the 2 packs of 1977 Panini stickers. Let me know what you think and good hearing from you.

As for grading other sets, I'm focusing my funds (and lack thereof) on making the best 1977 Topps set I can for right now. The number 2 guy on the set registry has some outstanding cards (about 15 10's at last count) and I want to build to some of that quality. Thanks much. My email is captfisch@yahoo.com.

captfisch