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Any 60's bats experts out there?

Hi,

Around 1975 I had a neighbor give me a Louisville Slugger Mickey Mantle model bat. The bat has the marking "MM1" on the end of the handle. I have kept it under the bed for home protection (not much on guns:>}) for the past 15-20 years and it's basically in the same condition as when it was given to me. Can anybody give me some history on this model and an approximate value for the bat? Thanks in advance. I know this is not a game-used model or anything, but what typically distinguishes a player game used bat from a store model? Just wondering.....

Ken

Comments

  • Store Model bats carry the players initials and/or "inch marks" that indicate the bat length (either the last digit or both digits). Player model (game used) bats typically carry the model number on the knob. One letter followed by a series of one to three numbers. The bat you described carries the players initials (MM) followed by the number "1" which should indicate the length (in this case, it should be 31"). If it is a 1960's Hillerich & Bradsby label bat, it is worth approx. $150 - $200 depending on condition. Hope this helps!! image

    Scott
    Registry Sets:
    T-205 Gold PSA 4 & up
    1967 Topps BB PSA 8 & up
    1975 Topps BB PSA 9 & up
    1959 Topps FB PSA 8 & up
    1976 Topps FB PSA 9 & up
    1981 Topps FB PSA 10
    1976-77 Topps BK PSA 9 & up
    1988-89 Fleer BK PSA 10
    3,000 Hit Club RC PSA 5 & Up

    My Sets
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,407 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i> If it is a 1960's Hillerich & Bradsby label bat, it is worth approx. $150 - $200 depending on condition. Hope this helps!! >>


    Scott
    Good job! Would just like to add a few things. On the Mantle bat - if it is a later store model - in the late 70's to early 80's, the H&B name changed to just Louisville Slugger and that Mantle bat would be worth considerably less - probably more like 100$ if in nm condition.
    Also:
    1. if there are initials inside the LS circle brand (e.g. 125 JR), it is a store model.
    2. If it says "flame tempered" rather than "powerized", on newer models, it is a store model.
    3. If the factory numbers appear on the knob of the LS bat (1980's or newer), it is a store model.
    I know there are a lot of little details but I don't deal with this enough to remember all that - I had done some reading this year when I decided to start purchasing GU bats. Of course the "Key" to not being screwed, is to buy from the people everyone trusts.
    thanx
    your friend
    Mike
    Mike
  • Scott and Mike,

    Thanks for the great information. My bat is indeed 31" and an H&B. I am fairly sure this model was issued in the 60's. The model number is inside the circle "125". My bat also say's "Powerized". Anyone know what year's this bat was sold? I don't think that it's even worth selling....was just curious more than anything so that I knew a little bit about it. Thanks again guys.

    Ken
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,407 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Anyone know what year's this bat was sold? I don't think that it's even worth selling....was just curious more than anything so that I knew a little bit about it. >>


    Ken
    That would be hard to say since there is a range in which the bat was made - yours probably says Genuine K55 Mickey Mantle Louisville Slugger on the barrel of the bat - correct? Also, I believe they stopped making the H&B label bats around 1979 - so you know it predates that period - my guess? 1960's to early 70's.
    I just pulled one out that I haven't looked at in a long time - it is nm-mt+ and is also an MM1 - I think it would be more desirable if it were at least an MM4 for the size. I do have an LS little league Yaz which is really a wimpy little bat. The best store model I have is a Jackie Robinson JR5 which is like a tree trunk!
    Wish I had more specific info for you but this is as far as I go....
    your friend
    Mike
    Mike
  • The two things you need to look at to pinpoint the approx. time period are the center label and the "P" in Powerized. If the phrase "Reg U.S. Pat Off." is missing under the circle in the center label, then the bat dates after 1964. If the bottom of the loop in the "P" in Powerized comes flush with the stem, then it is from 1965-1968. If the loop extends through the stem, then it dates 1969-1972. I hope this isn't too confusing. Please keep in mind that I have read up on the subject but I am by no means an expert. image

    Scott
    Registry Sets:
    T-205 Gold PSA 4 & up
    1967 Topps BB PSA 8 & up
    1975 Topps BB PSA 9 & up
    1959 Topps FB PSA 8 & up
    1976 Topps FB PSA 9 & up
    1981 Topps FB PSA 10
    1976-77 Topps BK PSA 9 & up
    1988-89 Fleer BK PSA 10
    3,000 Hit Club RC PSA 5 & Up

    My Sets
  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,407 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>The two things you need to look at >>


    Scott
    Pretty cool - thanx for the info - what source are you using?
    Mike
    Mike
  • Scott
    Pretty cool - thanx for the info - what source are you using?
    Mike


    The MastroNet Reference and Price Guide for Collecting Game Used Baseball Bats by Dave Bushing & Dan Knoll. Anyone interested in collecting bats should have a copy. I hope they publish a more up-to-date edition soon!

    Scott
    Registry Sets:
    T-205 Gold PSA 4 & up
    1967 Topps BB PSA 8 & up
    1975 Topps BB PSA 9 & up
    1959 Topps FB PSA 8 & up
    1976 Topps FB PSA 9 & up
    1981 Topps FB PSA 10
    1976-77 Topps BK PSA 9 & up
    1988-89 Fleer BK PSA 10
    3,000 Hit Club RC PSA 5 & Up

    My Sets
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