Do the BN, RB and RD designations for copper vary based on the coin type?
ColonialCoinUnion
Posts: 10,087 ✭✭✭
Do, for example, 1932 Lincoln Cents and 1794 Large Cents both need to exhibit the same percentage of original red remaining in order to called RB?
I'm not sure how PCGS does it, or if they have a written policy, but I think the designation should be a relative one based on the coin type.
This would mean that a Large Cent with a small amount of original red (say 5 - 10%) would be called RB because the overwhelming majority of Large Cents exhibit no red at all. To merely call such a coin BN, doesn't recognize the fact that it is exceptional vs others of its type.
For a Lincoln Cent, the standard would be 30% or so in order to be called an RB, and so on.
Does that make sense?
I'm not sure how PCGS does it, or if they have a written policy, but I think the designation should be a relative one based on the coin type.
This would mean that a Large Cent with a small amount of original red (say 5 - 10%) would be called RB because the overwhelming majority of Large Cents exhibit no red at all. To merely call such a coin BN, doesn't recognize the fact that it is exceptional vs others of its type.
For a Lincoln Cent, the standard would be 30% or so in order to be called an RB, and so on.
Does that make sense?
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Comments
-YN Currently Collecting & Researching Colonial World Coins, Especially Spanish Coins, With a Great Interest in WWII Militaria.
My Ebay!
Somehow, someway, that ain't right.
<< <i>I have an unc. Connecticut Copper, circa 1787, with about 5 - 10% original red in the letters and devices on each side, which has been given the BN designation just like another of my unc. Connecticut coins which is 100% B-R-O-W-N.
Somehow, someway, that ain't right. >>
Well I can't see how a 1909-S V.D.B can get a MS-66 grade and be BN, to me BN is wear. That's why I don't believe in it, and if and when I collect early coppers I will not follow those listings and become victim to them. I don't really care if others think they're good, IMO, I don't like them, and will keep that mentality until changes are made. Maybe i'll make my own scale.
-YN Currently Collecting & Researching Colonial World Coins, Especially Spanish Coins, With a Great Interest in WWII Militaria.
My Ebay!
<< <i>I have an unc. Connecticut Copper, circa 1787, with about 5 - 10% original red in the letters and devices on each side, which has been given the BN designation just like another of my unc. Connecticut coins which is 100% B-R-O-W-N.
Somehow, someway, that ain't right. >>
This is a prime example of the need for a Brown-Red designation.
<< <i>I have an unc. Connecticut Copper, circa 1787, with about 5 - 10% original red in the letters and devices on each side, which has been given the BN designation just like another of my unc. Connecticut coins which is 100% B-R-O-W-N.
Somehow, someway, that ain't right. >>
Like any grade, you've got average and highend for grade. The Connecticut with some red would be a high-end coin by color. I have a RB proof IHC that is about 99% red. think about it in buying terms, you'll get it cheaper as a BN than as a RB.
David
<< <i>[Well I can't see how a 1909-S V.D.B can get a MS-66 grade and be BN, to me BN is wear. That's why I don't believe in it, and if and when I collect early coppers I will not follow those listings and become victim to them. I don't really care if others think they're good, IMO, I don't like them, and will keep that mentality until changes are made. Maybe i'll make my own scale. >>
NO, no, no. Brown color is aging, not wear. Following your logic, rainbow toned coins have wear, also. I know your comment was said partially with tongue in cheek, but I defy you to look at a glossy brown high grade large cent or early Lincoln and not say it's beautiful. Most lustrous brown copper used to be full red, but was stored in an environment that turned it brown.
-Who can actually figure out the percentage with any degree of accuracy?
-What if all the red exists along the rims, which covers a lot of territory, but all the focal areas in the center are brown?
-Does woodgrain count as "brown" even though it was part of the coin's color when struck?
-What about burgandy toned coppers -- how deep can red tone before it crosses the line to brown?
It's hard to imagine any area of coin grading that relies more on gut feeling and could easily change from one submission to the next. I once asked this question in the Q & A forum when Rick Montgomery was the answer man. His answer left me just as confused, but confirmed it was a very subjective process based more on feeling than any written guidelines.
As far as I've noticed, no. Obviously, others disagree. I guess the guy to ask is HRH.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
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