Todays tip for protecting your coins...
ScarsdaleCoin
Posts: 5,223 ✭✭✭✭✭
several people on the net have asked me for tips on preserving coins....
here is one for today....fraction of the cost to hermetically seal a coin...you can protect uncs by using metal containers like the ones that are used for pints of paint..... place silica gel at the bottom of the container coins and close the lid properly to obtain an air-proff seal....you can place a humidity card on the underside of the lid....glass can be used instead of metal but you have to be careful in the handle of glass jars,,,,you can use either bagged silica gel or blue silica gel as your desiccant and humidity indicator....the desiccant should be replace when needed...
here is one for today....fraction of the cost to hermetically seal a coin...you can protect uncs by using metal containers like the ones that are used for pints of paint..... place silica gel at the bottom of the container coins and close the lid properly to obtain an air-proff seal....you can place a humidity card on the underside of the lid....glass can be used instead of metal but you have to be careful in the handle of glass jars,,,,you can use either bagged silica gel or blue silica gel as your desiccant and humidity indicator....the desiccant should be replace when needed...
Jon Lerner - Scarsdale Coin - www.CoinHelp.com
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Comments
I would suggest aluminum for storage. Silica Gel is great, as well as placing a cheap Proof Lincoln to act as a "sacrificial anode" - something like a canary in a mine. That will tone first and let you know if you should remove your coins. 3M manufactures a special tape for this purpose as well. Be sure to store NO paper in with the coins.
Best,
Billy
Tom
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Stuart
Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal
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The chemical engineer in me disagrees with the one molecule thick FAT coating (whatever that is). IMO, one molecular thickness of anything does not protect a coin (or anything else) for any significant period of time.
I will opt for whatever I get my keeping my coins in holders without any help.
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While the information below was directed towards vintage toy cars, I apply some of the principals of the thoughts below to my coins...take care - ohh btw, GREAT BOARD !! Credit goes to Jon (of Scary Wheels)
Steve R. Cameron
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My Meeting with the Metalman
I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Mr. David Scott, Head Curator of Metals at the Getty Conservation Institute (GCI), which is part of the Getty Museum here in Los Angeles. The GCI is the research & preservation arm of the Getty, working with paintings, sculptures and art objects dating back thousands of years. Mr. Scott oversees the GCI’s metals department, where research is conducted into such areas as the conservation of art objects and the strutural reconstruction of artifacts (including sculptures and ancient buildings/ruins) to such arcane subjects as examining trace minerals found in paint pigments.
The reasons for my meeting were twofold: One, to find out the best way to preserve my redlines, and two, to find out more about the various effects the environment has on these cars in general.
It was quite amusing to be led into the building where the GCI is located: Surrounded by millions of dollars in hi-tec equipment (including an x-ray machine the size of an entire room) and state-of-the-art labs, to enter bearing a sampling of my humble little diecast toys. Mr. Scott was amused as well, but during the course of our conversation became quite taken with the cars and was very enthusiastic in his insights and advice.
Good News and Bad News
Ok, let’s go to the good news first: If you follow some general guidelines, you can preserve your cars quite well for your great great great grandkids to eventually sell so they can go buy the newest fusion-powered spacerod for jaunts to Alpha Centauri. The bad news is that you can also do a lot of things wrong (as I was) and have some rapidly deteriorating cars in no time at all.
Basically, one needs to remember this: everything is falling apart, redlines included. The plastic shrinks and gets brittle, UV and moisture assault the metal, and various acids and pollutants in the air are working to dissolve everything. But the process can be slowed down — way down — so that items can be preserved for a long time without much apparent decay. So first, let’s find out about what hideous things are out there, waiting to mangle many a Maverick.
The Axis of Evil (plus one)
Moisture
Unless you live in a vacuum, there will be some degree of humidity in the air, which is constantly at work on the metal and will eventually dull any unpainted surface as well as leading to corrosion. If you live in the south or the eastern parts of the US, this can be a major problem.
Organic Acids
These are given off by wood and wood byproducts as a natural part of the aging process. These acids bind with metals and begin the oxidization process, which can ultimately lead to the dulling, pitting, cracking and flaking of many different metals, especially zinc and lead-based ones. Ain’t nature great? Then there’s the problem of you yourself. The oils in our skin are a great source of acids that are quite corrosive, and what’s even more fun is that a person’s PH differs wildly. You may be able to handle a car 500 times with little or no wear, but someone else may have Sweat from Hell that eats into the base of your prized 442 from one just handling. Take a look at some of the bases of your cars - you’re sure to find an oxidized fingerprint or two!
Airborne Pollutants
Especially if you live in urban areas, various manmade gasses and particulates can wreak the same havoc as organic pollutants (see above).
Ultraviolet
UV can not only make your aqua car into ice aqua (or your purple Cord into a pink one), it can actually trigger chemical reactions in metal that will hasten the decomposing process. UV can also be a cause of splotchy toning — it penetrates right thru Spectraflame paint and causes alloys to discolor or darken. (Toning can also occur just from impurities within the metal, which is more common. Alas, Mr. Scott was unable to tell me if this type of toning goes it’s merry way for the life of the car or stops at some point — maybe someone can do a ten-year photographic study and let us know!)
It Came from Beyond the Display Case
Basically all these influences result in two types of corrosion: Calcium carbonate and zinc carbonate. One is not so bad, and the other is, um — ugh.
Calcium carbonate is a white powdery film that adheres to the surface of exposed metal areas. High humidity and exposure to gases are the main culprits. If you catch it in time, it can be removed with a soft brush or a quick rinse under some lukewarm water and cloth dried (then let the car sit out in the open for a week or so).
Zinc carbonate, on the other hand, is not good. This is where the corrosion has actually penetrated the surface of the metal and started to eat away at the zinc. It too, has a powdery appearance, but unlike the calcium carbonate, it will not rub/wash off. The only way to remove it is to manually scrape it off, preferably with something that is not as hard as the surface of the metal (a toothpick, or a hard plastic object would be a good choice). Once zinc carbonate has occurred on a car, it can spread, so it’s best to try and scrape around and try and get rid of it. It would also be wise to separate it from other cars. Some cars may be more susceptible to it than others, probably due to better or worse plating jobs. I have three cars in my collection that have this stuff, and no matter how well I scrape, the afflicted areas always appear scarred. Really a bummer.
Alright, Already — so Waddya do About it?
Well, short of keeping your collection in an airtight bunker five stories below ground, here are some tips. If you want to display your cars, do not, I repeat DO NOT, display them in wooden display cases, especially ones with unpainted/unvarnished surfaces. Doesn’t matter what kind of wood — just don’t do it. If you currently have cars in such a case, I highly recommend you remove them AT ONCE. The organic acids from the wood will really eat away at the cars, particularly if the case closes fairly airtight. If you do remove your cars from such a case, put them out in the open with lots of air circulation (and out of direct light) for a week or two. This allows any of the gases absorbed by the cars to dissipate into the air. If you take your cars from a wooden case and pop them directly into (non-PVC) plastic containers, or any other sort of airtight container, the gases absorbed by the car continue to work their magic for a period of time, leading to more damage.
Now, there is an alternative to the ‘ol wooden display case, and it’s the best preservation method out there: metal and glass. They’re totally inert, and the best materials by far to display metal objects. Plexiglass is ok, but some solvents in the glue that binds pieces together can give off — you guessed it — metal-munching gases. Also, if you elect to paint a metal cabinet, only use a baked-on enamel and let it sit two weeks after painting before placing anything in it.
Two other items can help in this cause: Silica Gel and Activated Carbon Cloth. Silica gel (usually found in small packets) absorbs moisture. Activated carbon cloth is a black fabric that not only absorbs moisture, but gases, odors, errant molecules — you name it. It can be cut and sewn to fit anywhere. A strip along the bottom of a display case ensures that as many gases and pollutants are absorbed as possible. At the end of this long-winded essay you’ll find a link if you’d like to order some. If you’re worried about UV, there is glass available that is UV-protected, and there are also fine mesh screens that absorb UV as well. And if you’re concerned about skin acids, well, about the only thing you can do is pick up the cars by the edges or (gasp) wear gloves.
If you store your cars outside of a display case, it’s probably a good idea to keep some silica paks close by (and/or the carbon cloth). If you use plastic containers, make sure they’re non-PVC, and if you cushion the cars, don’t use tissue/toilet paper, paper towels or felt - hey, they’re wood-based products, remember? Non-PVC bubble wrap should do the trick.
More Ammo for the Blisterpak Liberation Front
Well, I hate to tell you, but keeping a car inside a blister is not the optimal way of preserving a car for future generations. First of all, the air inside the blister is NOT akin to an airtight time capsule — there’s plenty of “breathing’ that occurs thru the cardboard of the blister. Plus, depending on the amount of pulp in the cardboard and the fun toxins in the glue that holds the bubble to the card, you have your own miniature laboratory of gasses and acids at work. Mr. Scott recommends that if you do keep cars in blisters, to store the blisters in a container with silica and carbon cloth to absorb as much of the baddies as possible.
Or you could just rip the suckers and set them free . . .
An Ounce of Prevention
I’m sure some of these solutions will meet with some skepticism among fellow collectors — so be it. But with prices for redlines going higher and higher, and with some people’s collections being valued in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, it makes sense to me to try and protect these cars as well as possible. Whether you value these toys for sentimental or monetary reasons, a few simple steps could keep them looking sharp for many years to come.
Silica gel, activated carbon cloth and other things you never knew existed can be found at:
Archival Suppliers
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<< <i>If you want to display your cars, do not, I repeat DO NOT, display them in wooden display cases, especially ones with unpainted/unvarnished surfaces. Doesn’t matter what kind of wood — just don’t do it. If you currently have cars in such a case, I highly recommend you remove them AT ONCE. The organic acids from the wood will really eat away at the cars, particularly if the case closes fairly airtight >>
Hi there Steve
I saw your post and thought you might be interested in some information about storing metal in wood I have been posting since around the time the PCGS wood boxes were issued. I love coins, have been involved in various areas of conservation for 18 years or so and know from related experience that wood can cause "toning" on metal - I think it will be shown to be a matter of how much - not if. Slabs are not hermetically sealed and will be exposed to the outgassing or various organic acids and other harmful fumes from the wood itself, the adhesives used in construction and even the fabric can be harmful - especially if in an uncontrolled or concentrated environment such as a deposit box. How well the newer slabs will hold out against the incursion of acidic fumes is unknown, but that they are not airtight is known. Wood is, in short, not the best choice. The display cases made by member SOLID are great IMHO because they are open displays - and they do suggest you do not store the wooden part in a safe or deposit box - just the aluminum tray (anodized aluminum is the material of choice for long term storage). At least 1 person concerned about this who contacted PCGS has already been offered a refund for his PCGS wooden boxes as "there will be no short term answer", and I heard from Mr. Hall that accelerated testing would take a month or two and we will be made aware of the results - unfortunately it seems they were not subjected to testing pior to marketing. There are also a few questions in the Q+A about this topic from myself and another. Several people have made excellent posts - Frattlaw showed with pics what I was writing about - slabs do not provide complete protection in the presence of acetic acid - which is found in wood - especially oak which the PCGS boxes seem to made out of. Oak emits up to 5% of its weight in acetic acid. MrSpud has written excellent posts about the chemical aspects of toning as well as raising awreness of the book Coin Chemistry by W. White. As I said in an earlier post - even if storage in wood is said to be 90% safe with 90% certainty, why risk a collection that has taken time, effort and money to assemble? Because they are pretty is not enough reason for me. And, no one has yet posted any BENEFITS at all of storage coins in wood to my knowledge.
Best,
Billy
CARING FOR YOUR METAL OBJECTS
The American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works
Prepared by Julie A. Reilly with assistance from David Harvey and Julie Lauffenburger, 2001.
"The characteristic tarnish on silver is black silver sulfide. Acidic gasses from wooden cabinets and cases can also cause metal corrosion. Vapors produced by plywood and other products that off-gas formaldehyde cause lead alloys and other metals to corrode, forming wispy white crystals often confused with mold growth. Keeping metal objects in a clean, dry, safe environment can prevent deterioration from environmental sources."
"Metals, in general, should be stored with inert storage materials. For example, metal cabinets and shelving should be used rather than wood cabinets and shelving. As discussed earlier, many woods and wood products, like plywood, emit acids and other gasses that cause metals to corrode. Acidic newsprint and cardboard boxes should be avoided. Acid-free, lignin-free wrapping paper and boxes are better. Clean, soft cotton cloth can also be used."
and:
Link to Data - if this doesnt convice you there is potential for harm from wood boxes nothing will
"Original" Wood Post (sent to Mr. Hall Aug 5th, responded Sept. 14th....just 3 days after my ORIGINAL Poll (below) closed where 78.79% voted "wood has the potential to harm coins")
Original PCGS Wood Poll Thread (more data)
Link To Another Wood Thread
Steve
<< <i>Thank you Billy, a superb compliment to Mr. David Scotts thoughts on preservation, and one I totally agree with.
Steve >>
Dear Steve,
nope - thank you - for bringing this topic to the forefront again. That wood can emit acetic acid, or anything else harmful, is apparently not a widely understood fact. Your input is appreciated!
Best,
Billy
It says that they tested the stuff and it worked. They also sent some treated coins in to ICG, PCGS, NGC and ANACS and they all got slabbed. It also cautions " It would be prudent for collectors to wait for complete data and long-term results before using the product as well as finding out the possibility of removing the product, if it later becomes necessary, without harming the coin’s surface."
The stuff sounds interesting. I couldn't find a commercial source of it though.
thought this topic and related threads could use some revival - redlines posts is great.
Best,
magikbilly
If this doesn't convince you wood can pose a threat to metal nothing will