There's a lot of information on the web about it, just do a search.... They look NOTHING like a normal business strike Peace dollar. If you held one in your hand, you'd question if it was genuine.....
The thing I key on is the spike just to the right of the E in LIBERTY. Like the 21 high relief (see picture) that spike does not extend above the bottom bar of the E. On the low relief coins it almost reaches the bottom of the middle bar of the E. This is would be identifiable even on low grade coins
Good eye spotting that ray. Was that something you noticed on your own, or is there a book that covers that?
BTW, I don't know if all high relief Peace Dollars are like this, because I only own one, but when you look at it from the edge, the obverse (on mine at least) appears slightly dished in the center. High Relief coins also don't stack very well. Just ask anyone who's tried stacking on top of a high relief Saint. I think that some of the design elements on high relief coins may actually be higher than the rim, which is why they don't stack.
On my own. There are books that have described the differences but usually they just talk about the differences in relief. the few that do talk about the hub differences keep talking about a difference in the count or arrangement of the spikes but for that you need another coin to compare and pictures can be hard to learn from for the count. Once you know about that spike by the E though you can identify high or low relief at a glance on coins of any condition.
Hey, thanks for that quick diagnostic! There are a lot of articles, pictures, etc., on the web, but very confusing for a newbie.
Ever since I took an interest in coins, I'm recalling where I stashed away random coins I've come across. My sister gave my son a 1922 peace dollar when he was 3, so we researched it, but got confused over high relief, low relief, matte, satin, proof, and so on--too many combinations! The coin has a lovely satiny finish, but is definitely a low relief as I now can see! The satin look is probably just age, but it's pretty--an even gold tone. It looks a lot better than this one fer sure:
Your way of identifying the high relief makes perfect sense to me!!
I suppose if there's only so much metal in the planchet and the higher it is in the center after it's struck means there's less of it available to flow to other details such as that ray.
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
The height of the refielf and the metal flow have nothing to do with the length of the ray. The two types actually have different hub designs. That ray is just a quick easy place to spot one of the differences. The actual number and arrangement of the long and short rays differ between the two designs, but why study the ray arangement or count them when you can just look at the one by the E?
I remember seeing a 1922 matte proof Peace dollar at a Baltimore show that was so spectacular it really looked like a modern reproduction. Fantastic coin.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
techeff
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Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
On the low relief coins it almost reaches the bottom of the middle bar of the E. This is would be identifiable even on low grade coins
Good eye spotting that ray. Was that something you noticed on your own, or is there a book that covers that?
BTW, I don't know if all high relief Peace Dollars are like this, because I only own one, but when you look at it from the edge, the obverse (on mine at least) appears slightly dished in the center. High Relief coins also don't stack very well. Just ask anyone who's tried stacking on top of a high relief Saint. I think that some of the design elements on high relief coins may actually be higher than the rim, which is why they don't stack.
I've seen one in person and the coin is just amazing. It really is what it was suppose to look like.
Michael
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
<< <i>How rare is the 22 high relief? How much of a premium does it bring? >>
Here's one...
Are there any 22 High Relief non proofs?
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Hey, thanks for that quick diagnostic! There are a lot of articles, pictures, etc., on the web, but very confusing for a newbie.
Ever since I took an interest in coins, I'm recalling where I stashed away random coins I've come across. My sister gave my son a 1922 peace dollar when he was 3, so we researched it, but got confused over high relief, low relief, matte, satin, proof, and so on--too many combinations! The coin has a lovely satiny finish, but is definitely a low relief as I now can see! The satin look is probably just age, but it's pretty--an even gold tone. It looks a lot better than this one fer sure:
ebay 1922 peace dollar
. . . now if I could just find that steel cent I got in change a few years ago . . .
Thanks again!
<< <i>Are there any 22 High Relief non proofs? >>
I believe there has been one piece certified.
Your way of identifying the high relief makes perfect sense to me!!
I suppose if there's only so much metal in the planchet and the higher it is in the center after it's struck means there's less of it available to flow to other details such as that ray.
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
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New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.