Need some Type Set Help!!!

FrattLaw

So I think I'm going to start my Wayte Raymond Type Set this weekend at the Anaheim show. I'm trying to decide between high grade common vs. low grade key dates. The typical question before anyone starts a Type Set. More specifically, all of these coins will be PCGS, NGC, ANACS graded coins that will be cracked out and placed into the album.

I plan on doing this set slowly, very slowly -- decades/lifetime to finish. Obviously there are a bunch of moderately priced coins I can start with. But the problem is that some of the coins (pre-1800) will be in fairly common grades. Do you think it would look good to have a huge variance in grades let's say a MS66 to a VG8? Or since I already know this, I should keep to the key - semikey dates in the more common coins and have the collection have a more uniform look?

Or just buy the best I can afford in each coin and go for the common dates?

Thanks
Michael

tjkillian

I'm doing something similar, except that I'm keeping them in the PCGS holder. A SBA in PR-69DCAM is a common coin, but the same coin in a bust dollar would be just a tad too expensive for my budget. So I am going for the lower grade coins as they get more expensive. I don't see a problem at all. Also, I go for the more common coins than the better dates. A 1861 quarter dollar in MS-64 is affordable whereas an 1871-CC quarter dollar in the same grade is not. I actively seek the most common and hence the cheapest coins for my type set. There are already enough coins to keep it a serious challenge without making it unduly difficult.

Tom

astrorat

The neatest type sets I have seen have been in the VF-EF range. They have consistent wear, color, and appearance. The budget will still allow for decent early coins without wasting tons on high grade later pieces (e.g. bust dollars versus Morgan dollars). Grades below fine tend to have too little detail for a type set, in my mind.

Lane

airplanenut

I'd go for the non-keys... then you have much more choice in a look. For my set, I have the grades I can easily afford... an MS memorial Lincoln, but a much lower grade bust 1c.

Jeremy

LanLord

I would think it would look fine to have recent coins in higher grades while the coins from the 1700s and early 1800s are lower grades.

That sounds like a great set to put together. I hope you will give us some pictures along the way.

JohnZ

Non-key high-grade crackouts.

That's how I'm doing my Dansco album.

goose3

My son and I are working on one too.

I have purchased the coins mainly in the grade just before the big price jump to the next grade.



we are down to a seated dollar W/motto and the entire gold page except one of the 1.00 pieces.

CarlWohlforth

Why not try for early common dates coins but more key date modern coins? Well not really modern, but say, key date Peace and Morgan dollars, Buffalos, Walkers, Mercs and stuff like that but common date early 1800s stuff.

Bikingnut

I would go for high grade common dates to keep them consistant. Another option would be all AU55 to 58. There are some really good values and quality in these grades and they tend to be over looked.

WWW

If time and financial good fortune are on your side, I would go with First Year Issues and then in MS63 or higher.

KlectorKid

Go for common dates. I see type sets as one good example of the coin so you can see the design for all its glory. Not a very rare but low grade coin. IMO

FrattLaw

I was thinking the same thing. High grade common dates and then the highest grade I can afford in the most expensive/rare types. I'm sure that even with a large spread between the grades, it'll still be an impressive set to accomplish. I'm just going to have to limit my purchases on this set to maybe 1 to atmost, several coins per year -- depending on price.

I'll post pics as I begin so I can share the experience with everyone. I'm going to try to fill some of the more common types first to kick off the set this weekend.

Thanks for the help,
Michael

PutTogether

Go first year of issue, last year if the first year is prohibitive. Usually gets you some common and some keys. In a series where most are common (peace dollars for instance) go for a rarer issue, but still affordable, like the 28.

PutTogether

here's a response i left about a week ago in a thread about type set, details out my own personal strategy a bit more.


Tuesday April 06, 2004 12:16 AM (NEW!)



I'll chime in with my biggest reason too.

I enjoy the personal aspect of it. All coin collecting is personal of course, and one set of franklines is never identical to the next, but there is a lot more choice in a type set. Let me explain:

If one were to assemble a "set" of say Franklin half dollars (doesnt have to be franklins, just using an example) they'd have to get every date and mintmark, possibly every proof and business strike, or a mix of the two. It's defined rather well. The truly personal aspect comes in the form of toned vs white, strike, full bell, etc.

A type set however, has a LOT more variables to it. You can do first year type, last year type, a mix. I myself am doing "transitional" type, which in and of itself has a million different possibilties. I can choose any year of importance to me, and try to show the most gradual changes in overal design. I can also play around with proofs, MS, toning, and everything else, just like i could in a normal set. To give an idea of what I'm talking about, I'll lay out my basic plan for my type set, which I also house in a dansco album. (lots of cracked slabs laying around the PT household)

I collect first year of issue (where possible) UNLESS:

I'll grab the last issue if another issue was also minted that year. For instance, an 1857 Braided hair large cent instead of an 1840, because it will sit next to the 57 flying eagle cent (two coins of same year) Sometimes it gets a bit more complicated, because three coins will overlap like the half dollars. Lettereed edge AND reeded edge were made in 1836, but lettered edge also overlapped the seated liberty in 1839. Generally in a situation like this, i opt for the more finincially feasible goal, and go with the 1839 lettered edge and 1839 seated half.

I'll collect the last year of issue if the first year doesnt overlap the previous issue, or is otherwise impossibly expensive in the condition I need.

I'll collect the SECOND year of issue, if that is the year the design made a modern change. IE: 1917 type one and type two SLQ. Or 1867 with and without rays nickels. (dont even get me started on the nickels, the overlap there is maddening with the shield two types, liberty head two types, and buffalo two types)

For one year types, or types that overlap with nothing, I'll occaisonally get the rarest, or one of the rarest years in a grade I can afford, instead of the first years. in three cent silvers for instance, I have an 1867 (mintage of 4000) and for the peace dollar hole, i use a 1928 that used to be in a PCGS 64 holder.

some of the guidlines i use for myself. I just have a lot more room to change things to suit my taste that I would if i collected one series.

Eric