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1942 T-2 Proof Nickel

I believe this question was aked before but I couldn't find it on the post anymore.

I just purchased a 1942 T-2 Proof Nickel from a well known dealer. The coin is raw, and he listed as Ch. Proof. The thing is the coin itself is toned to the point where the mirror appearance is no longer there.

My question is that how can I tell if this is a proof coin and not a regular mint issue?

It there a way to tell at all?

Thanks.
New PGCS collector - still learning from all other fellow collectors.

Comments

  • MercMerc Posts: 1,646 ✭✭
    If you can't see the mirrored fields get rid of it. The 1942 proofs are the most common of the 1936-1942 proofs. This is not too tough to find with great flashy mirrors.

    You can tell it is a proof by a number of things. Sharp full strike, mirrored fields, proof luster and not mint state flow line luster, sharp squared off rims.....
    Looking for a coin club in Maryland? Try:
    FrederickCoinClub
  • So let say if I can see all 5 steps (no breaks), sharp strike and edge, it should be a proof, right? I just afraid I am getting a regluar UNC from this dealer.

    Thanks
    New PGCS collector - still learning from all other fellow collectors.
  • MercMerc Posts: 1,646 ✭✭
    Like I said, if you can't easily tell it is a proof, get rid of it. Many nice proof nickels can be found from this year. If you try to sell it, the next potential buyer will say, it doens't look proof, I don't want it.
    Looking for a coin club in Maryland? Try:
    FrederickCoinClub
  • StuartStuart Posts: 9,761 ✭✭✭✭✭
    bit1work: Darkly toned proofs with subdued mirror surfaces are not highly sought after by collectors. Most collectors prefer mirror surfaces on their proofs, unless they are matte proofs...


    I have several questions about your post on the 1942 T-2 Proof Nickel.

    1) Why did you purchase it if it doesn't look like a proof? Was it bought sight unseen?

    2) Why would you keep the coin it if doesn't meet with your expectations of how a proof should look? Do they offer a return policy?

    3) Why would you purchase from a "well known dealer" whom you don't trust enough to have sold you a proof?

    Stuart

    Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal

    "Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
  • Stuart

    Yes, this was actually purchased via a catalog from an dealer. For the past couple years, I only purchase slabbed coins from him. Just recently, he offered an 1 of the kind 42 Type-2 Proof Nickel at a attractive price. Slightly under $100.
    The package was left un-touched for over a month and I did not pay attention to it until recently that it does not have a mirror field.
    Not that I don't trust this dealer, it is just a question comes to my mind that if there is a way to tell if it is a proof strike or a business strike if mirror is absent.
    I am still learning.
    Thanks
    New PGCS collector - still learning from all other fellow collectors.
  • When someone says choice proof I start thinking the coin is in the PR 63-PR 64 range. Gem and I start thinking 65. Now a T2 proof Jeff in PR 63 probably won't have excellent mirror like fields. If it does they will have hairlines.

    1942 T2 proof Jeffs often have some haze, especially if they have never been dipped. All 6 steps should be well defined with no ticks. All lettering, rims and details should be crisp and square. If you live in San Jose, CA PM me and I could arrange to take a look at it, I am familiar with the series and have several we could compare it to.
  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    hey bit

    not meant as a criticism, more as advice. if you are having trouble determining proof/mint state on a common modern coin like this, you should probably concentrate more on gaining knowledge as opposed to gaining more raw coins. with a little time you should be able to easily distinguish a proof coin.

    al h.image

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