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My new Nemesis

Who is RedSoxJeff on EBAY? This dude has no regard for price. I am well capitalized, but he is driving me nuts, doubling or tripling the going price at any cost on 76 FB. MY dilema is, do I stop for a while, and let him buy the cards up at a reasonable price and hope he goes away, or engage in a bidding war out of principal?

RobBob
Serving Ice-Custard-Happiness since 2006

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Comments

  • baseballjeffbaseballjeff Posts: 1,082 ✭✭✭
    Make him pay!

    Let the war begin. Post links to the auctions you made him pay through the nose for. That always makes for a good laugh!
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
    Just put in a snipe at what you think is a reasonable price, and go to bed. If you win, great; if you don't, someone else wanted it more than you.

    Just out of curiosity-- and I'm not trying to be a smart ass here-- how many here actually have a ceiling in mind when they see an auction that interests them? When something catches my eye, I usually know in about 15 seconds what I'm willing to pay for it. Is that the norm, or do a fair number of you just 'wing it'?
  • RobBobGolfRobBobGolf Posts: 414 ✭✭✭
    Boopotts

    I usually know what I have paid for a similar card. For instance, the 76 Topps FB I referenced , I have bought about 200 commons in the 12-18 range, so I usually throw a bid down in that range. When I am outbid, I consider the pop report and other factors as to whether I will bid again.

    Baseballjeff

    I ran him up on the last batch. I had bid 17.77 on a lot of cards. When I figured out his max bid, I ran him up about 10 bucks a card, and then even bid on cards I didn't want just to make the price higher. I figure this helps the value of my set in the long run.

    I know, I am a very bad manimage

    RobBob
    Serving Ice-Custard-Happiness since 2006

    image
  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    RobBob,

    Then don't get pissed when he runs you up on stuff you want.

    I gotta agree with boopotts on this one. I lose more cards on eBay than I care to mention. BUT... I generally come up with those cards the 2nd or 3rd time and sometimes for 1/3 of my original bid.

    Like the man says... figure the top price you want to pay - set up your snipe and then go to bed.

    And... there is nothing that says your snipe can't be $1.00 below his normal high bid, especially if you don't mind paying it if you win!
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • I agree with FB and Boopotts. Set snipe, go to bed and forget about it. The good news is once Redsoxjeff is out of the way, invariably the next few cards offered are less than what he paid. Sometimes you can even pick up the same cards he bought months later at a lower price.
    Baseball is my Pastime, Football is my Passion
  • RobBob - I kind of like the new guy! From a sellers standpoint that is - image
    Just kidding with you of course. That's why I came to you direct on those last couple of dozen.

    But seriously, he hasn't proved he is around to stay on that set. You know how people are off and on with stuff, he may get out soon, so maybe laying low a while and just sticking with your original plan is a good idea. He will no doubt crack under your pressure!

    May all your bids be successful!

    Jeremy
    Jeremy
  • seinbigdseinbigd Posts: 206 ✭✭
    Instead of getting mad, why not take advantage of the situation?

    Generally 70's material is plentiful. I'd suggest listing some of your cards from your set and try to sell at a premium while there is a good market for the cards. Then as FB suggests, pick up a replacement card at a lower cost when the market for these cards returns to "normal" levels. By doing so, you'll lower the basis in your set and add value to your collection.

    As the saying goes: "Buy low, sell high".

    Good luck with your collection.

    seinbigd
  • seinbigd - I would agree with this if the 9s were going $30, $40, $50+, but they are going more like $20-$30. It would be a lot of work and would be only for a very small profit, that is if he does get the bids.

    I really am sorry to hear your getting bugged RobBob, I hope it's just a speed bump for you.



    << <i>Generally 70's material is plentiful. >>


    That sounds great, but if only that were more true.

    Jeremy
    Jeremy
  • Rob,

    Simply list your cards at a high starting. Drain his money come back and buy the next card for almost nothing its as easy as that. Sounds like a blessing for all your low end 9's.

    Gatorimage
  • RobBobGolfRobBobGolf Posts: 414 ✭✭✭
    Well, the selling high-buying low sounds good in theory. But, I am the reason he is paying more, if I didn't bid, he would be buying for what I buy for. He is just willing to go 10 bucks higher than I am if he has to. I refuse to lower myself to running an auction and shilling him up, which is the only way that theory would work. I think the laying low, and only buying at my price level strategy is what I will do. As my comment section on the set reads "I know this set will take a long time to build"

    RobBob
    Serving Ice-Custard-Happiness since 2006

    image


  • << <i>"I know this set will take a long time to build" >>



    That really is important I think, so many people like to rush though and build a set just as fast as they can - it sort of takes the fun out of it. Sitting back and being able to pass when you want takes almost more strength and the reward will be greater.

    I can understand wanting to get a fast start, but slow and steady does win the race.

    Here's to you RobBOB! image

    Jeremy
    Jeremy
  • shouldabeena10shouldabeena10 Posts: 1,357 ✭✭✭
    Have you considered e-mailing him to make a truce? If there are only two of you fighting over the cards and running each other up on the prices... why not swap needs lists and figure out a fair plan for both of you to finish your set at bargain prices. I've done this before and it worked out pretty well for both of us.

    Just a thought.

    Mike
    "Vintage Football Cards" A private Facebook Group of 4000 members, for vintage football card trading, sales & auctions. https://facebook.com/groups/vintagefootball/
  • seinbigdseinbigd Posts: 206 ✭✭
    shouldabeena10:

    That's a very good thought.
  • IronmanfanIronmanfan Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭✭
    He obviously wants the cards a lot more than you do.
    Successful dealings with Wcsportscards94558, EagleEyeKid, SamsGirl214, Volver, DwayneDrain, Oaksey25, Griffins, Cardfan07, Etc.
  • Hi RobRobGolf,

    RedSoxJeff is like an Semi-Tractor Trailor going down a 6% grade road. You just get out of the way and let it pass, all the while hoping it doesn't run you over.

    These are just a few of the auctions that I lost out on to him or won and payed for it:

    1972 Topps Reggie Jackson PSA 9 finished at $435 (won)
    1972 Topps Carl Yastrzemski PSA 9 finished at $275 (lost)
    1975 Topps Nolan Ryan PSA 9 finished at $1300+ (lost)
    1993 Finest Nolan Ryan Refractor PSA 9 finished at $2152 (lost)
    .
    .
    .

    In case of a RedSoxJeff bid, just duck and cover.

    Scott Jeanblanc
    jeanblanc@iconnect.net
    Ebay UserId : sjeanblanc

    --------------------------------------------------
    Collecting Nolan Ryan cards from (68-94) in PSA 9 or better

  • VarghaVargha Posts: 2,392 ✭✭
    Jeff has perfected the buy high and sell low method.
  • RobBob,

    Looks like someone is selling out --------> Link to Old Nemesis

    Now you are free to pursue plan A you had talked to me about some months ago.
    Best of Luck - Jeremy
    Jeremy
  • Yeah, I have one or two nemesis (or is the plural nemeses? - aw, who cares) on Ebay. They usually throw a bid in the last 10 seconds that blows my top bid away. Last night though I had the last laugh. I was looking at a 1952 PSA 5 common card and put a top bid of $30.10 on it and got outbid at the last second at $31.10. Another PSA 5 of the same card that looked just as nice, came up about an hour later and I got it for $21.50. So my advice is, if they want it, they can pay for it. Otherwise, there will probably always be others out there.
    You spilled WHAT on my 1952 Topps Mantle?!?!?! Doh!!

    My 1952 Topps Baseball Set
  • SOMSOM Posts: 1,555 ✭✭✭
    I tried the collusion tactic with him (redsoxjeff) about a year ago. He never returned my email, and he kept on outbidding me.

    He is definitely playing with (someone's) house money.
  • WabittwaxWabittwax Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭
    If he is willing to pay $27+shipping (that you know of) for cards that you routinely pay $12-$18 each for, I say email him directly with a list of all your cards for sale at $28 each (excluding maybe really low pop stuff). Making $10-$15 profit per card is a very good thing. Milk it for all it's worth now. When he is done, or if cards come up that he already has, you will be winning them again at $12-$18 each. Your set will cost you hardly anything to complete that way.
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