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Strong Strikes Only Collecting anyone do?

islemanguislemangu Posts: 1,378 ✭✭✭
I just lucked out on a poor imaged slabbed buffalo arriving with a wonderful strike. It had a small problem hit on the reverse that was accurately reflexed in the grade. Along side others, the strong strike beauty made it more desirable in my warped head to keep regardless of the plastic's grades and associated values. Got me thinking if anyone perhaps into 20th century sets where each type is just a plain old fantastic strike representation for the issue. Forget the grades, forget the toning, forget the luster. A set that has a full impact punch.image (no proofs allowed:clownimage
YCCTidewater.com

Comments

  • 291fifth291fifth Posts: 24,323 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I am also a big fan of strong strikes. The grading services seem to consider it secondary, however.
    All glory is fleeting.
  • haletjhaletj Posts: 2,192
    I try to collect only fully struck coins. Actually, the only ones I don't are the ones most people do, FS Jeffersons, FB Merc's, FBL Franklins, etc (but my Jefferson's for example have to have all other detail with very good looking steps even if not quite full).
  • mojoriznmojorizn Posts: 1,380
    I'm a Buffalo collector as well. Strong strikes are priority 1!

    Mojo
    "I am the wilderness that is lost in man."
    -Jim Morrison-
    Mr. Mojorizn

    my blog:www.numistories.com
  • I'm very big on strikes too. My liberty nickel set has several pieces with exceptional strikes.
  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,423 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Strongly struck Merc Dimes on the obverse is what I concentrate on within the series. If the coin has Full Bands that is okay but not the main focus at all. The little 2 percent of the strike is not worth the huge premium for some of the dates.

    I will admit that I have caved in a couple of times though with the FB designation. image

    Ken
  • ccexccex Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭
    I also have a decided preference for strong strikes, as long as they are not slabbed as such and therefore probably outside my budget.
    I am willing to buy a coin with subdued luster as long as the strike shows all the details the designer intended to show. Strike is the main reason why I would prefer an MS-65 coin over an MS-64 (since most companies don't allow mushy strikes a grade higher than 64).

    I will probably never collect FBL Franklins since there are so many people chasing so few 1953-S FBL coins. However, I pass on "average strikes" for most New Orleans Barber Dimes. One of my favorite coins in my type set is an AU- 58 Type 1 1917 quarter, which is nicer than some MS-62 or MS-63 FH examples I have seen.

    "Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by stupidity" - Hanlon's Razor

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