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Grading nightmare!! Help!!!

I have spent hours upon hours, days upon days, and weeks upon weeks of trying to make sure I send in the right cards to be graded. Of course I want to send in the cards that would be most profitable, but how do I make that judgement. I don't have the high tech equipment like PSA, and I don't want to send in a card that I think might get a 10 and then it comes back a 6 or 7. Going through hundreds of thousands of cards is time consuming. Is there a rule of thumb you use before sending a card in?? Cards vary so much in value from a 10 to a 9. It is too expensive to send the wrong cards in. I am getting so frustrated in choosing, that I want to get out of the hobby all together!! My purpose in grading is to sell on e-bay. I would like to turn my hobby into profit. I don't have the time anymore that it takes to continue collecting. I only want to send the cards in that I feel confident they would come back a 10. What is the best method you use? I no that no method can guarantee it would come back a 10. Please help.
Steve Merullo

Comments

  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    The best method to use is PRACTICE.

    If you have 500 cards that you're thinking of sending in - figure out the best 25 or 50 or whatever minimum you can send in at the service level you want. Try to measure the centering on those that you think are qestionable - check the corners with a 10x loupe and keep an eye out for any faint crease.

    Before you send them in - figure out what YOU think the grade should be on each card. Send them in wait for the grades to pop. When they come back - see how you did. If YOUR grades are pretty much what you get - then you're all set! If not, try to figure out why - and if you can't - enlist the help of someone else who might be able to.

    There will ALWAYS be surprises and some slight disagreement on the grades. But, if you wrote down 9's for cards that all come back as 7's - then you have some slight re-educating to be done.
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    Do you have a 10X loupe, a black light, and a way to determine centering precisely?

    This takes time and patience. If you don't have the time for collecting, then you might want to rethink whether you can really put the time in that it takes to get good submission results. If it was truly easy to make a killing, then everyone would be doing it.


    Regards,



    Alan
  • MorrellManMorrellMan Posts: 3,238 ✭✭✭
    Steve - Alan's points are well taken. 10X loupe is absolutely indispensable. Once you see your cards with the loupe, the differences in grades become abundantly clear. Good luck.

    Alan - first time I've heard a black light mentioned. What's it for?
    Mark (amerbbcards)


    "All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    I would like to turn my hobby into profit.





    when u do this it no longer is a hobby, but is now a job. be prepared to now spend time that was once used enjoying your colection and channel it to looking over material that is of hi grade. or if you have older stuff that needs authenticating send that in. the grades will follow
    Good for you.
  • helionauthelionaut Posts: 1,555 ✭✭
    Magic marker glows under black light, so you use it to spot color touch-ups. And it looks cool.
    WANTED:
    2005 Origins Old Judge Brown #/20 and Black 1/1s, 2000 Ultimate Victory Gold #/25
    2004 UD Legends Bake McBride autos & parallels, and 1974 Topps #601 PSA 9
    Rare Grady Sizemore parallels, printing plates, autographs

    Nothing on ebay
  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    MorellMan,

    As Helionaut says - the black light catches magic marker. This is most common on the 71 Topps black bordered regular set and the Greatest Moments set - kids (or adults) touching up the edges.
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • estangestang Posts: 1,322 ✭✭✭
    How about posting a card or 2 that you think is a 10 or a 9. Pick one recent that is a 10 and some pre-1980 that you think is a 9.
    Enjoy your collection!
    Erik
  • aside from the advice given above, it is very important that you be honest with yourself. will the card grade out as a 9 or 10 or do you hope it will because it's your card? it easy for one to look at their cards with rose colored glasses. if your talking about pre- 1972 cards, 10's are VERY tough to come by. lately it seems that some issues have seen a spike in 10's but NOT pre-1972.

    IMO the power of prayer also helps a great deal image

    good luck and may you be spared the grader of death.
  • WabittwaxWabittwax Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭
    If you think that you don't have the time for collecting, wait until you start submitting heavy. I am working on 1 1986 Rack box right now. I have done 18 of the 24 rack packs so far and I have spent about 6 hours on it so far. Honestly I would make more money getting a second job than busting cheap wax like this but it helps kill some time.

    The only way to get a good eye for grading is to start submitting. You will probably lose some money at first but like the other guy said, if it was easy money, everybody would do it.
  • In regard to a 10x loupe is this the same as a magnifying glass? Either way is there a brand (preferably on Ebay) that you recommend?
    “Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that.” - George Carlin
  • If you would like a loup which has a lense corrected for curvature and a built in light you can carry in your shirt pocket I have them for sale post-paid ala Paypal for $13 each. I have long wave black lights that fit in your pocket as well for $16 post paid . E-mail me @ Lomismo@earthlink.net I have sold maybe 40 to members of this board.

    imageimageimage
    live each day like it's your last but don't count on it!
  • Hi Steve,

    It isn't very realistic to be looking to submit cards to PSA for the express purpose of getting a PSA 10. They just don't give them out that easily. I have done several submissions over the last few years and my PSA 10 ratio is one for every 18 - 20 cards graded. Its just not going to happen frequently, unless of course you use PRO grading services. The key to getting PSA 10's on the cards you want, is getting a quantity of the same card with all of them being MINT in condition. That means as close to 50/50 centering, with 4 sharp corners, and no surface defects. The problem is usually only dealers have this kind of a selection to choose from.

    The best advice I can give is to look your cards over as closely as possible, picking the best centered first. Then look those over and pick the ones with the best corners, if you have any PSA 9 or PSA 10 cards use them as a frame of reference for judging corners. Then look them over carefully for surface defects, which include creases, scratches, paper bubbles, ink smears, and fish eye print defects. What you have at the end of that search are the best cards available to you. Send them in with the expectation the most will be PSA 9's, a few will be PSA 10's, and some will be PSA 8's, anything lower and you missed something. Break the low graded cards out and look for what you missed so that you don't repeat the mistake.

    Hope this is useful,

    Scott Jeanblanc
    jeanblanc@iconnect.net
    Ebay UserId : sjeanblanc

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Collecting Nolan Ryan cards 68-93
  • BugOnTheRugBugOnTheRug Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭
    FB and others offer sound advise. However, remember to that grading is extremely subjective even at the grader level and it can be a frustrating experience for the submitter.........

    case in point:

    I recently receive grades on a small batch of 84D's, most of which I was positive would hit at least 9's. I know these cards fairly well and use the usual methods mentioned above, but also incorporate a 20X-40X mircoscope for detailed corner analysis, as I feel it's in the corners where the majority of grade differential is found, especially in newer cards. I was disappointed that I was right at the 50% mark - half 9's (and a few 10's) and the rest 8's. (I did predict and receive a 10 on one card in particular!). That's an extremely sucky percentage for 9's and I can deal with that..........however.......

    when I studied several 84D 9's I purchase a few months ago (and recently graded), I found the corners on many were just slightly more rounded at 20X than of those I just submitted. More like a 'point' than an 'edge'. (I would summize the purchased 9's must have come from a cello wrapped factory set; mine came from recent wax).

    While I certainly will not rant, rave, or point fingers, I am disappointed in my findings. So, I will study these cards in even greater detail to see if I can do better, although at this time I'm not sure where to start. However, as I stated earlier, graders are humans too and subjected to unending conveyor-belt exposure to these cards......so even if your are extremely dialed in as a submitter, it's still somewhat of gamble to what the final tally from your submissions will be.

    Overall, I am pleased with the grading of the big 3 - GAI, SGC, and PSA - but at times frustrated too.

    Happy submitting,
    BOTR

  • thanks for the knowledge BOTR. But, one question. Why didn't you mention BGS in your top grading co.? They seem to get high prices for their high grade cards.
    thanks, awsome63, (Steve).
    Steve Merullo
  • I think it really depends on the years..I know that psa is much tougher on 1979 and up...I am not saying that a 7 in a 1956 is not equal to a 7 in 1984..but you must face reality..the machines used to cut the cards, printing to manufacture the cards came a long way in 30 years...now 40 years..the grading companies realize this and take this into account..I would like to know what years you are looking at..I think it will help..

    Scott

    PS the show is tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!
  • I'm looking at all years. I have many 60's and 92's. My vintage cards are mostly baseball. I have some vintage football, and lots of 1992 rookie basketball. Most of my newer cards are rookies. Selling everything! On my way to africa on the mission field and could use the money. Thanks, Steve.
    Steve Merullo
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
    Steve-

    He didn't mention BGS because they've established a reputation for grading trimmed cards.
  • WinPitcherWinPitcher Posts: 27,726 ✭✭✭
    hmmm trimmed? or after factory cuts are being allowed thru? or both? beckett should know better, I can see the after factory sheet cuts being encapsulated as long as a qualifier is given but outright trimmed cards beckett? dang
    Good for you.
  • BugOnTheRugBugOnTheRug Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭
    I don't count BGS due to cut sheet cards, as mentioned earlier, and other reasons. BGS doesn't have the indepth knowledge as the big 3 do. While I like their grading profile, ie. 4 catagories, it doesn't make up for their downside.

    I remember first getting into graded cards about 1.5 years ago and felt BGS was at the top. I think a lot of newbies do. But spend some time talking graded cards at length and I think you'll see GAI, SGC, and PSA as the only real players in town.

    BOTR
  • what would you say? that psa is the best? Is there more bidding on psa cards? Do they get the the highest bids?
    Steve Merullo
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