best format for gradeable cards- cello, rack, vending, wax?
Rainman
Posts: 1,001
i'm sure this has been asked before (i've read some of the past posts but didn't come away w/a "clear" answer beyond there is no clear answer), but was wondering if there's somewhat of a consensus on which is likely to produce better results in terms of getting gradeable cards (i.e., psa 9 or 10). i'm thinking of starting w/1985 topps, 1 of the first sets i put together by hand. mcgwire's one of my favorite players so of course i wouldn't mind pulling a few psa 9s or 10s (i can dream). other sets i'd likely consider doing would be 80 topps, 82 donruss, 84 fleer, 87 donruss, 87 fleer (time to re-live my childhood/teen years). i've opened wax boxes/packs from several of the years, but have gotten only a handful of rcs and most haven't been gradeable.
i'm aware of the ways to tell if a wax box/pack's been searched/resealed, but i'm not as familiar w/the "tricks" used for cello/rack/vending.
any insights would be much appreciated.
i'm aware of the ways to tell if a wax box/pack's been searched/resealed, but i'm not as familiar w/the "tricks" used for cello/rack/vending.
any insights would be much appreciated.
0
Comments
As far as checking whether or not a vending box has been searched, pick up a cheap vending box; lets say 1989 or 1990 Topps. Odds are in the first instance these cheap boxes are not going to be tampered with. Open it up and notice the pattern and consistency of the cards. They should have an organized and untouched look. Now take the cards out, look through them all and try to put them back into the vending box. First off, when pulling the cards out, you will notice there is a tight fit. Vending boxes are stated to include 500 cards but many have slightly over that number. As such, you will probably be unable to get all of the cards back in the box. Regardless, once you fill the box up, take a look at the pattern on the cards. You should be able to see a noticeable difference.
As far as rack and cello, these are pretty easy to spot if the wrapping has been tampered with. However, as you might well know, known sequences of cards appear over and over again in cello and rack. What this means is that the astute and knowledgeable collector can "search" the packs by just seeing who is on the top and bottom. For example, I recall as a 14 year old kid back in 1985 when Dwight Gooden's card was THE card from the set, his card would fall in a sequence with Eddie Murray and others. As such, if I saw Eddie Murray on the top of a rack pack, I would buy it, and sure enough, Doc would come out a few cards later. Because of this, you have to be somewhat leary of buying single rack and wax packs from unknown persons. While you may be a little safer with older unopened material (not tons of it around to open and analyze the patterns), it is still probably wise to buy from reputable dealers. This board has, in many places, recommended reputable unopened material dealers.
Have fun!
For example, if you go vintage, you will have to buy bulk to not get crushed and old wax can be very expensive. Racks are often impossible from the period leaving only vending. Source for any material is critical but in the really old stuff, vending is about the only potential cost effective solution.
Newer material has the source vary but your experience of pulling o/c cards is a familiar theme here. Price can also be critical depending on original production quantities and the like and the desireability of certain forms.
My advice would be don't think in terms of boxes, you will have to think in terms of cases. You will also probably lose money unless the price is very good. From the years you mention, I would just buy it already slabbed and let someone else take the chance.
Fuzz
"All evil needs to triumph is for good men to do nothing."