Opinions on this Peace Dollar
ksteelheader
Posts: 11,777 ✭
I'm new at buying Peace Dollars. Give any and all comments including things to look for and an idea of grade....Thanks, Ken
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
0
Comments
Honestly though.......the obverse strike looks a little weak and there looks like some splotches from an old dipping maybe.........I don't know a thing about these so I won't even ventrue a guess as to grade.
I don't know about the luster/"dusty" toning. Maybe needs a good polishing like GaCoinGuy suggested
Nice coin. You can still find nice Peace dollars cheap. Last year I bought an orig roll for $185 and they had nice toning and surfaces.
Most were MS63 to MS64. But none were MS65's.
roadrunner
I'll assume some of you have the "basic" knowledge of this series so I'll try to skip the common stuff..... Here's some mint figures....
Philadelphia mint produce coins for every year.
Denver mint produced coins for 22,23,26,27,34 only
SF produced coins from 22 on for each year.
The first thing you have to realize is that each of the mints produced a different quality coin. San Fran produced the worse.. strikes were mushy in the center with little detail. Denver mint coins were very crisp with high detail. The 22-23' have strike quality issues..... and everyone knows about the 21' and the issues with the high relief....
When looking for wear, here's what I do.....
1) I look for any discoloration/haze/blemish/hue on the cheek or face. This will indicate a AU-58 coin or less.
2) I'll flip the coin to check the top right shoulder of the eagle. Study one in a 65/66 holder to see what an unworn should should look like. Once you know what to look for, then you can compare. If there is no wear... it's a least a MS-60....
3) I then flip again and look at hair quality (this takes more time to study and get right) and look for wear.. not stike quality... people confuse strike quality to wear... I look at the bun above the eye and ear area mostly.
4) Then I usually look at the toenails of the eagle for separation of the nail.... this tells me a couple things... one is strike quality... if it isn't defined, the strike is usually good but not outstanding or "complete". Hits to this area or slide marks over the nails which completely remove this detail will point to a MS60 at best....
Then you have all sorts of other things to consider:
1) Original luser...
2) Retone from a dip...
3) Eye appeal in general...
4) Sharpness of hits...
5) Location and # of hits...
The coin you have pictured (going from the pic) looks AU-58 to me.......
dragon
.
K6AZ, thanks for the compliments on my photography. I could not take pics like this a year ago. But, thanks to lots of help on this forum and loads of practice, I believe I'm getting the hang of it.....
....Ken