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Acetone Crisis

OK, I have a coin. It's a proof. It was in a PVC holder, so I was advised to give it a cleaning in acetone, which I did, moving it through several glass dishes of fresh acetone. I noticed that it's got a slight "greasy" haze on the mirrored fields of the coin when I took it out. The acetone, while essentially pure, has some trace amount of oily organic contaminants in it (I put a few drops on a very clear, clean piece of glass, and can see the trace residue on the glass when it dries, so I can tell it's not something that was on the coin before).

I swish the coin around in a dish of water with dishwashing soap a few times, and the oiliness seems to be clinging to the surface. I rinse it off with rubbing alcohol, and while in the alcohol, the surfaces of the coin are nice and clear, but as it dries, there are some residual traces. The coin is now sitting in a dish of rubbing alcohol.



Recommendations?


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Comments

  • relayerrelayer Posts: 10,570

    You need more chemicals
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  • airplanenutairplanenut Posts: 22,142 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Use better acetone image
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  • K6AZK6AZ Posts: 9,295
    If the alcohol doesn't remove it, I think about the only thing you can do is to give it a very light dip. Mix one part thiroeau based dip with four parts distilled water. Dip the coin for two seconds, then neutralize the dip by dipping the coin in pure rubbing alcohol. This should take care of it.
  • Don't put chemicals on your coins, period.
    Joe
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,075 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have been trying to get the message across since I came to these boards that the acetone that you get from WalMart and paint stores is not of the highest quality. It contains oils and other residues from transfer lines, filling lines, etc. If you want the very best find pesticide grade or spectrophotometric grade. Since you can't readily buy it, you might want to consider making friends with a chemist.
    theknowitalltroll;
  • Bajjerfan, in lieu of premium grade acetone, what would you recommend for people who want to gently clean proof-grade coins without residue? MS70 is the only thing that comes to my mind.

    XpipedreamR, one of the more experienced members of the forum PMd me with a recommendation for something called "Coincare" to clean coins. Haven't used it yet, but other forum members may share their experiences.

    Also, there's something else called "Uni-Solvent" that a dealer told me was good at removing PVC without residue. Again, I have no experience with it, but other members may.
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  • MyqqyMyqqy Posts: 9,777
    I have to agree with JLW-collectors who don't mess with chemicals don't end up with chemical messes! image
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  • K6AZK6AZ Posts: 9,295
    Tom, while I understand some generic cheap forms of industrial acetone can have a small amount of oil and/or other substances, our local Lowes carries a higher priced acetone that specifically states it is 100% pure. I bought a gallon of this a few years ago, and have used it on many coins that had PVC with no problem. As I recall, it was about 50% higher in price than the cheap stuff.
  • is that hplc grade? I was just on a high purity chemical sitelabexpress.com
  • K6AZK6AZ Posts: 9,295


    << <i>I have to agree with JLW-collectors who don't mess with chemicals don't end up with chemical messes! image >>



    This is a case where it is necessary. If you do nothing, and let the PVC continue to do its dirty work, this is what you end up with:

    image
  • I bought Acetone from Home Depot and had no problems!
    You can fool man but you can't fool God! He knows why you do what you do!
  • I'll have to take a look.
  • I bought Acetone from Home Depot and had no problems!

    Me too. I bought one that said 100% pure -- haven't had any problems. Then again I've never used it on a proof coin, only MS coins to help remove thin films of oil/grime. So as Bfan says, if we were to use, say, Home Depot acetone on proofs, perhaps the mirrored fields would show residue after it dried.
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  • Well, I think I'm through the crisis. I rinsed it off with some 91% isopropanol, carefully patted it dry, and it's good as newimage






    Let's see...Now I can obsess about removing dust particles before I put it in an AirTite holder!


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  • Home Depot is full of Sh-tuff... even we research chemists can't get 100% acetone anywhere! HPLC grade is only about 99.99%, I think... Home Depot is probably 99.9%, which is good enough to call 100% if you aren't selling it for chemical research or medicinal purposes...

    As for your oil problem, first I would have suggested not cleaning your coins at all, but since it's too late now, maybe you should try washing the coin with a very nonpolar solvent like hexane or ether. Whatever is on the coin is obviously not coming off with your more polar solvents...

    For general reference, here's a list of some common solvents in order from most to least polar:

    water
    methanol (methyl alcohol)
    ethanol (ethyl alcohol)
    acetone
    tetrahydrofuran
    ethyl acetate
    diethyl ether (commonly known as ether)
    hexane
    pentane

    If something doesn't dissolve in a polar solvent, try one of its nonpolar buddies! (and vice versa)

    A few caveats:

    - First and foremost, I would suggest leaving your coins as they are and not treating them with solvents.
    - If you absolutely must wash them, stick to solvents on the list above. Chlorinated solvents (dichloromethane, chloroform) have the potential to do a lot of damage.


    Has anyone ever tried sonicating a coin to remove dirt/oil? It probably wouldn't do anything for the oil, but it might be a safe way to knock off those chunks of dirt that surround the devices. I'm interested to hear if anyone has any experience with this. If not, I'll bring some dirty coins into lab and give it a shot and let you know the results.
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,075 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nothing is 100% pure. Not every can of industrial grade solvent is going to be problematic, but you have to understand that acetone is a bulk commodity that is transported by the truckload or in railroad tank cars and not necessarily handled with tender loving care. If the people that package acetone for Home Depot buy a truckload of the stuff they don't know if the tank was properly cleaned before it was loaded or not.
    I have no experience in cleaning coins with ms70 or anything else, but in my 25 plus years as a hands on chemist I have used thousands of gallons of acetone and other common solvents. You can pay yer money and take your chances. If it was me I would buy the best stuff I could find like the HPLC grade. You know that that stuff has been freshly distilled and immediately packaged into CLEAN glass bottles.
    theknowitalltroll;
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,075 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you can get hexane AKA petroleum ether AKA ligroine AKA Skellysolve (not likely to find it under that name these days) a little dab on a Kleenex works wonders for cleaning that label goo off of your slabs. And it doesn't stink and leaves no residue. It IS flammable so be careful. Its also great for cleaning guns too.
    theknowitalltroll;
  • MacCrimmonMacCrimmon Posts: 7,058 ✭✭✭
    Bajjer/mas3cf,

    Where does xylene (xylol) fall in that list? I've noticed with a few coins that xylene dissolved the foreign residue whereas acetone did not do so quite as readily.

    As to haze on a proof (modern), I've removed said haze with the diluted thiroeau as K6AZ mentioned. For the chemists, what is the likely compound causing haze?



    << <i>Has anyone ever tried sonicating a coin to remove dirt/oil? >>

    As in an ultrasonic bath? I've often thought of trying this to clean the compacted grit, etc. you often see around the legend lettering on something like a VF-XF late date large cent. Would it be safe to use acetone or xylol in an ultrasonic bath? Precautions? . . . other than ventilation. Could the on/off switch ignite the stuff?
  • ms70ms70 Posts: 13,954 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If anyone tries an ultrasonic experiment please post a new thread on the results! That would probably be of great interest
    to many of us here.

    Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.

  • BoomBoom Posts: 10,165
    Do fingerprints come off using the same procedure?
  • fcloudfcloud Posts: 12,133 ✭✭✭✭
    This is all a great reason not to dip coins! More coins are ruined by people with good intentions than coins that are helped. If you feel the need send them off to NCS. They look at the coins before processing and only conserve the coins that can be conserved safely.

    President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay

  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,075 ✭✭✭✭✭
    xylene would be similar to acetone in solvent power in regards to greases, oils and/or pvc.
    as far as the haze it might be do to some contaminant from the air reacting with the surface atoms
    theknowitalltroll;
  • EvilMCTEvilMCT Posts: 799 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Has anyone ever tried sonicating a coin to remove dirt/oil? >>




    << <i>If anyone tries an ultrasonic experiment please post a new thread on the results! >>



    I had a friend try this for me once (he had one that he used at work). Another friend had picked up a few lots at a local auction and was surprised to find a bag of "Ancient Roman Coins". At least that what the outside of the bag was labeled as. Problem was, the only thing that we could determine was that they may actually be coins. So, we took one, tried acetone, nothing doing. I forget the other chemicals that we tried to use, but they all had little impact as well. Next, tried the ultrasonic bath. It did help, but not enough. Last step, we took a dremel to it.image BTW; I don't recommend this to anyone. But, for our situation, it worked perfectly. The "Ancient Roman Coin" turned out to be a Lebanese copper coin dated 1950, that had been buried in concrete! image
    my knuckles, they bleed, on your front door
  • mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    I've been saying this about acetone all along. It's not pure and will leave a small amount of residue. Hopefully you can get it off.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section

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